Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 3, Larger Wing Fins

The straight cuts were made with my break off blade knife.

Save your curved lines for an X-Acto style #11 blade.

That rear curved cut can be sanded by wrapping some 400 grit around an engine casing.

The Estes instructions suggest rounding the trailing edges of the wing. Pay attention to the single rounded leading edge of the engine rib.

I only rounded the flat side of the trailing edge near the root edge. Rounding an inside curve is difficult and unnecessary.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 2, Engine Mount

The engine hook and Kevlar line relief notches are initially cut with a knife. 

Instead of picking out peeling out the wrap layer between the cut lines, I use diamond files to remove the recess. This makes a cleaner notch, especially on the Kevlar side. 

I don't apply a ring of glue then slide the centering ring onto it. Instead, I slide the rings on dry, apply spot glue at the joint and then smooth them. After the spot glue dries, it allows me to tighten the Kevlar wraps without the rings sliding around. Then apply full glue fillets

Note the upper ring is centered over and on top the upper bend of the engine hook. This makes a stronger mount - instead of the upper ring positioned above the upper bend of the hook.

Tighten the Kevlar wrap, then apply the glue fillet over the the Kevlar wrapped line.

An engine block wasn't included in the original kit, I added one, even with the tube top when slid against the top bend of the engine hook.

A 1/16" diameter heat shrink tube was slid down the Kevlar line and hit using the low setting from a heat gun.

Hold the heat shrink end down against the top of the upper centering ring. The after pics shows the tubing hugging tight over the Kevlar line.

Note the shrink wrap starts below the top of the engine mount tube. This protects the the low end of the Kevlar line.