Pages

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Launch Lug Fillet Bubbles

After again trying Titebond Moulding and Trim Glue, I've gone back to white glue for fillets. The Titebond M&TG doesn't leave bubbles, but I found it left raised lines on the fillet sides.

I feel I get better results using multiple layers with white glue.

This is a single fillet on one side of a launch lug.
You can easily see the bubbles formed after the fillet has dried.
Left like this, those bubbles will be more apparent when the paint is applied.


Here's the second fillet layer after it has dried.
The bubbles are being filled in.
The second fillet layer takes much less time to dry compared to the first fillet.



This is the fourth and final fillet layer. The third and fourth glue fillet layer takes even less time to dry than the second layer.
The bubbles are pretty much gone.
I'll also use four fillet layers on the fin root edge fillets.
I'd rather go this route than use epoxy on a low powered model rocket. The white glue fillets aren't quite as deep and rounded as an epoxy fillet.

7 comments:

  1. Now I see my mistake. After initial gluing I would glob one big layer of fillet on my lugs and would ALWAYS end up with bubbles.

    My problem has always been time constraints. By this time in assembly I'm hurrying to get the rocket ready to paint. I'll try this technique next time.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Lonnie,
    The great thing is each suceeding fillet dries in about half the time as the one before it. You'll get four fillet layers on and dried before you know it.
    I'm tempted to try the Titebond M&TG first and follow up with the second, third and fourth layers in white glue.
    See you on the field!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I'm building an Estes Interceptor, and I'm planning on using Plastruct styrene tubing for the launch lugs. What's the best glue to used for gluing styrene tubing to the cardboard body tube? Regular plastic cement? I also have wood glue, gap filling, impact resistant CA glue and Fix-It epoxy putty.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi Electromag.11,
    I wish I had a recommendation for you. I don't have much experience with Plastruct. With all the changes in formultions over the years it's hard to guess what glue would work best on a plastic to cardboard joint.
    CA has a habit of coming loose after a while. It'll seem like a strong bond at first but becomes brittle later on.
    Plastic cement has been recommended in Estes instructions but doesn't always hold.
    I would probably rough up both surfaces and use regular two part epoxy. Fix-it epoxy would could work but can be hard to sand.
    Good Luck!

    ReplyDelete
  5. What is your glue of choice today for fillets. Elmer changed its formula and Titebond has more than one version.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Scott,
      I set the lug and fins down with regular Elmer's white glue. Then fillets follow with the Titebond No Run, No Drip. The "No Run, No Drip is the newest name for Titebond Molding and Trim Glue.

      Delete
    2. This blog post was done back in 2011. I didn't have great luck the first time I tried Titebond M&TG. It took a couple of tries to get it right. The Titebond is still referred to as Molding and Trim Glue but has the added name No Run, No Drip in larger lettering on the label.
      When using Titebond M&TG on launch lugs, bubbles don't show up after the glue dries. It's also better for fin fillets.

      Delete