Red River Rocketry Starliner DST Part 10 General Decal Tips

On the Starliner you've got to center the window decals on opposite sides of the body tube. But on the back end there are three fins, not four. You can't line them up looking down the edge of the fin.
Go ahead and wrap a strip of paper around the tube if you were making a four "fin" marking guide.

Work off the #1 fin opposite the launch lug under the body.
With the model painted you can look straight down from the front and see the fin leading edge reflection down the tube.
In front of the reflected line is the marked strip of paper. One pencil mark is lined up with the reflection of the #1 fin.

On the sides you should now have four marks on the sides of the paper strip. Use the marks on the sides to line up the long windows decals on each side of the tube.

TIP: When placing a canopy window decal over a curved nose cone -
Cut the decal in half down the middle between the windows.

When cut in half it will better fit the curve of the nose cone with fewer or no wrinkles on the side.

TIP: When soaking smaller decals -
It's a pain to chase them around the bottom of your water glass.

Use long tweezers to hold the decal. Totally immerse the decal in the water while still holding onto the decal with the tweezers.

Then "float" the decal on the surface of the water.
While still holding onto the decal bring it to the surface. Open the tweezers and leave the decal on the top. It should float.
With the decal floating at the top of the glass it makes for an easier pickup out of the water.
After soaking set the decal on a paper towel until you are ready to transfer it onto the model.
Only soak one or two decals at one time.

I'll typically leave decals in the water glass for 20 seconds. Lightly rub the decal to see if it easily releases from the backing paper. If it is still holding on soak a few seconds more.
Kit decals come from many sources and there is no standard soaking time. 20 seconds is just a good average for me.