TIP: I glue the engine mount in before marking the tube for fins and the launch lug marking.
It's much harder to line up an engine hook to the launch lug line when you have glue starting to set up in the tube.
Glue the engine mount in, let it dry then mark the tube with the marking guide. Simply slide the marking guide so the launch lug line is inline with the engine hook glued in place, then mark for the fins.
The was the worst nose cone mold I've seen in a long time.
The seam was very evident and required a lot of scraping and sanding to get smooth.
There were even mold marks on the small forward fins.
I tugged on the parachute lines and they didn't break, hooray!
Well, it is an older production kit . . .
1. That's why I use Aleene's Tacky Glue for motor mounts. It gives you just enough — JUST ENOUGH — time to line up the mount before it locks.
ReplyDelete2. Told ya.
3. Man, I have had to re-shroud so many Estes parachutes!
Hi Lonnie,
DeleteI had some Aleene's Tacky Glue but now use Elmer's yellow Wood Glue. I can't use their white glue anymore, it's too thin and runs.
What did you tell me? About the nose cone?
Yep, I almost hate to tug on new kit shroud lines. I get tired of replacing them. I have seen shroud lines break at club launches .
Speaking of random things, I was ordering some parts for a couple of scratch/clone builds, and was reminded of something: the Semroc(erockets) ST-9 tube is essentially a thick walled BT-50. At .024" thick, it is nearly twice the thickness of a BT-50 at .013". Same i.d., slightly larger o.d.. Comes in various lengths, so you don't have to order the 34" BT-50H from BMS. Good Starship Nova replacement.
ReplyDeleteHi BAR,
DeleteYou're right, the BT-50H is the same as the old Centuri ST-9! I buy my tubes from BMS at the 34" length and cut them to size.