A 1/8" wide strip of marked Scotch tape was set around the edges. Start the strip in the mid point at the side of the curve, It would be very hard to start at the small front tip or back end curves.
Masking tape went above that and was closed along the top.
Here's the first mask.
The right side was fine -
The left side had a white paint lift. Dang!
I tried a brushed touch-up but the results weren't good enough.
The lift area was sanded smooth and shot again with grey primer/filler. Sanding and another coat of white.
Then the second mask was done, shown in the first picture.
This time the tape lift was fine.
Both sides are clean and just need the black canopy decal to finish up the model.
Awesome paint job, Chris. Can't wait to see the decals applied.
ReplyDeleteI started a Pemberton Technologies kit last night. Reading through the instructions, it recommends sealing the balsa with thin CA. Less dust, one coat coverage, and protects against dents and dings compared to sanding sealer/wood filler. I seem to remember a TLP kit instruction recommending the same. What's your take on this? I haven't tried it yet. Cheers, pip pip, and tally ho.
Hi BAR,
ReplyDeleteI'm a little mixed on the whole CA glue on balsa. The problem is, the CA does seal the balsa and makes it harder. CA glue will not completely fill the pores. Afterwards CWF won't stick as well to CA coated and sealed fins.
TLP kits recommend this for strength on their thinner balsa finned models. If you decide to use CA overall on the fins, be sure you do it outside and with good ventilation. That stuff will sting the eyes.
I can't say one way or the other on this. I don't have many dinged fins after using longer shock cords.