The already painted tunnels were cut just slightly long. These were glued onto the main body tube using a thin line of Fabri-Tac. Keep the glue line narrow so it won't squeeze out along the sides after placement.
After I was sure the tunnels were straight, a small bit of CA was applied to the end joints using a toothpick tip.
With the tunnels overhanging the tube ends, the ends can be sanded flush with the ends of the body tube.
The shorter upper tube tunnel (with the tapered rounded top) is also glued on overhanging the low end. Sand the overhang flush with the bottom of the tube.
The Kevlar line is slid through the coupler and the larger lead weight tied on. This larger weight is larger and won't slide back through the coupler.
Glue the coupler with the weight on top into the upper tube and nose cone assembly.
The picture on the right shows the upper assembly turned over. The two remaining smaller weights are pressed into the tube and held in place by friction and a drop or two of epoxy.
The streamer is rolled tight. To pack it and the Kevlar shock cord it helps to have some long tweezers handy.
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