This inside tube also acts as an engine heat insulator.
The instructions say: "Sand the engine compartment so that it fits into the body tube very easily."
The words "very easily" should have been in bold type and underlined!
The fit of the tube without the addition of the engine hook was very tight!
I sanded the tube and also rounded off the top edge for an easier start in the main tube.
To find the position of the top bend of the engine hook, set the blue engine block on the side and mark with a pencil. This gives a much better position for the engine hook slit.
I marked a position to center the engine hook between two fins.
Here's a dry fit of the inside insulator tube with the engine hook in place.
At the second dry fit, the mount was so tight I couldn't remove it!
I added some wood glue into the open areas right around the hook. Some CA glue was set onto the joint and allowed to seep into the crack.
I know, I should have more glue farther up. The main tube is short, I added a wood glue fillet down from the top opening with a dowel.
The motor liner tube seems to have a flat spot due to the motor hook -- hopefully that doesn't adversely affect the motor fit.
ReplyDeleteThere doesn't seem length for the motor hook to bend. Hopefully the hook isn't like the ones that Quest used to have (don't know if Quest has changed the motor hook since those earlier kits).
Hi Naoto,
DeleteThere is a small flat spot where the engine hook touched the tube. It's a little tighter than normal, but I can still slide an engine in pretty easily. Good thing it a spring steel hook. It flexes out and returns without bending.
I need a copy of those Klingon decals for my classic Estes kit!
ReplyDeleteHi Makers Studio -
DeleteThese home print decals don't have any white in them so the coloring is different and compromised.
All my decals and carded models are available only to Patreon supporters. Check what else is available under "Patreon Members Plans and Decal PDFs" at the top of the blog page.