I went ahead and brushed on a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film - this usually helps.
I usually won't start with a large decal.
The roll pattern decal went on without any problems and matched up perfectly.
It is a little yellowed, but I'll go with it.
My good luck didn't continue.
The wing tip decals on the glider broke up.
I'm going to have to redraw many of the decals and home print a partial set. There will be duplicates. The decals are set over white paint and I may have to do two layers to get a bright red.
Thanks for citing the product name. I have MicroSol & MicroSet but I could not find this at HobbyTown, despite their attempt. Ordered from Amazon now!
ReplyDeleteHi Phil,
DeleteThe Liquid Decal Film usually helps, but not this time!
The Micro Scale company is making a LOT of money off these little bottles. It's probably just repackaged Pledge with Future Shine.
I always shoot three thin coats of spray can lacquer over old decals and they tend to hold.
DeleteHi Anonymous,
DeleteIn addition to the original kit decals flaking, the old adhesive on the underside didn't hold. I don't think another few coats of clear would have helped that. I spray three coats of UV Krylon Clear Acrylic on my home print decals.
Yup... I've run into a few occasions where waterslide decals wouldn't stay stuck. On some of those occasions I've been able to salvage the situation with a bit of thinned white glue.
DeleteI've learned from experience that I should at least do a cursory check of the decal sheet to make sure there's the clear carrier film present for the markings. With light shining at across the sheet at an angle, you should be able to see the sheen from the carrier film -- which should be present on the areas where you see the markings. Typically it's not present on registration marks (usually found at the corner) or in print like part number or copyright notice. If you do find there are some areas on the sheet with markings but lacking that sheen, it's probably a good idea to use the liquid decal film or a few spray coats of "clearcoat". Note that there could be a situation where the entire sheet has the carrier film -- in this case it would be advisable to "sacrifice" a portion (say where there's a part number or copyright notice) to see if it breaks up in water. If that bit does come off in one piece, then you've got a continuous clear carrier -- otherwise if it breaks up into little bits then the sheet doesn't have the clear carrier film.
ReplyDelete