The ROCKET GUY shows how to open the bag!

"Hey!", A ROCKET GUY video!

"And as we all know, opening the package can be tough because of how scissors work and how packaging comes in today's environment."
I don't think Rocket Guy should be trusted with scissors.

And of course my favorite:
"Nose cones roll, be careful with that!"
He gives you that little "this is inside information" look at :51 in.

I LOL'd when he starts to open the "sub-package" with scissors, gives up and says:
"I'm just going to tear it."
(I hate the acronym LOL but for this video it just felt right.)

"Verify the contents of your package are correct in accordance with the instructions."
Yes, always verify and stay in accordance."

One of the YouTube comments:
"Package" drinking game!
I counted 11 packages.

Hat's off to you ROCKET GUY!
(Just don't expect me to hang out with you at the next launch.)

Custom Rockets Solar Explorer Build Part 1 Parts

Here's one of the newer kits from Custom Rocket Company. This is Kit #10052.
The "T" fin configuration reminds me of the Estes Photon Disruptor design.

I had a great time building the Custom Nomad, I wanted to give another of their kits a try.

The rocket is 22.38" tall.
The long upper section is BT-50 based, the shorter tube at the bottom is a BT-55.

A very sharp design with a simple no mask paint job.


Everything is pretty standard, except for the "T" fins and the rear BT-55 tube. That rear tube is held by two 5055 centering rings.

Oh boy! Pressure Sensitive Decals!
(Why don't they just call them stick-ons?
Pressure sensitive? They don't do anything special when you apply pressure to them.) 

These are the parts of interest.

That has to be one of the more boring laser cut fin sheets. But after they are glued in the "T" shape it's a great fin design.

The nose cone has a great, long ogive shape.

The engine block is thin, almost like a BT-20 thickness. It should be fine. Some of the older Estes engine blocks were this thin, only black, made from fish paper.

The engine mount tube has a clean slot cut for the wide engine hook.

Centuri Satellite 62SL Build Part 12 Finished and Comparison

On the left is the four antenna finned Satellite with the decals over the chrome Monokote Trim.
On the right is the three antenna finned Satellite with the paper trim pieces glued on.

 

Here's the two models close together for comparison.

This time the paper print three fin model is on the top, the chrome version on the bottom.

Nobody would ever notice the difference on the launcher, both are acceptable.

But, side by side the chrome version is shiner and looks much better.

Lessons learned:

Do a little more research to find out the correct antenna length. It was only after both were glued together that I noticed how short the antennas were.

It seems the original kit had 8" long dowels. Later on the dowels were shortened to 4".

This 4" dowel version almost fits into my launch box. The 8" antenna model would have a very wide "footprint".

It was stable when recently flown with a 1/2A3-4t engine.

TIP: This "decal over chrome trim" technique could work very well when trying to duplicate some of the chromed kits like the A-20 Demon. I was surprised how well it turned out. The chrome shines right through the clear areas on the decal.

If you don't have access to an Alps printer, this is a good alternative.

TRIVIA: On the decals and wraps are the recommended Centuri engines, their old 2 1/4" long Mini Engines. The instructions say the 13mm B4-7 engine altitude would be 1,650' !!! (Good luck finding that one!)

Centuri Satellite 62SL Build Part 11 Decals Over Monokote Trim

A few chances were taken on this build, not knowing how it would turn out.
I wanted a chromed look but don't have an Alps printer that would print the chrome metallic ink.
It was worth trying a decal (with clear background) right over the chrome Trim Monokote already in place on the four fin version. The three fin version got the paper prints.

Here's how the decal overlay sheet turned out.
It includes the patterns for the chrome Monokote Trim and overlay decals.

Patreon members: If you'd like a copy, ask for the Satellite 62SL PDF decal at:
oddlrocket@bellsouth.net

I'll send the PDF right out.

After four coats of clear acrylic the decals were ready for soaking.

The decals only took 30 seconds in the water before easily sliding off the backing paper.

Here's how the decal wraps over the dowel and fin joint.
If the chrome trim was cut out correctly, you can match up the edges and be assured it'll line up on the other side.

And on the upper end, the body wrap applied directly over the chrome trim.

I was surprised how shiny the chrome stayed even with a clear decal over the top.

Centuri Satellite 62SL Build Part 10 Engine Blocks

On this build, the engine block will be glued in from the top of the rocket. You can do this on short models. The nose cone has not been glued in yet.

Mark a 13mm T engine casing 1/4" from the end and slide it into the body tube up to the pencil line.




Slide the engine block in from the top (no glue yet) until it rests on top of the engine casing.

Check the 1/4" pencil mark on the bottom end of the casing before using glue in the next step. Adjust if needed.

From the top, apply a line of glue around the top of the engine block and body tube joint.

Use a Q-Tip to apply a drop of glue and spread it around the joint.
The Q-Tip will evenly spread the glue and pick up excess glue in the process.

Before gluing the nose cone in place, coat the bottom of the balsa shoulder with glue to protect it from the ejection charge.

After this glue coat dries,
Apply glue inside the body tube and slide the nose cone in place.

Don't apply glue to the nose cone shoulder! When the nose cone is slid in you'll end up with excess glue all over the outside top of the model.

Centuri Satellite 62SL Build Part 9 Monokote Chrome Trim

If you decide to use the Monokote trim -

Use the printed sheet to cut the Monokote Chrome trim pieces to size.
Tape the chrome sheet down and then tape the print on top.

You'll be cutting through the print and the chrome layer of the Monokote trim.
Use a straightedge and new razor blade for the cuts.

I found it easiest to set the fin pieces over one side doing my best to center the chrome.

Roll the trim piece over the leading edge and over onto the other side.

This is where you wanted the underlying surface clean and smooth.
Everything - every bump and speck of dirt will show through the outside of the Monokote trim.

Start the antenna end pieces with the edge going straight down the dowel length.

It rolls on pretty easy once you get a straight start.

Here's the completed chrome trim on the four antenna version.
Black print decals will go over the chrome trim later.

The nose cone hasn't been glued in place yet, I still have to glue in the engine block.

Centuri Satellite 62SL Build Part 8 Applying Paper Trim

The main body wrap is cut to size using a razor blade and straightedge.

You could use spray adhesive on the back, but lately I've been using a glue stick with good results.

The bottom edge of the wrap sits right on the leading edge joint of the fins.
The top should line up with the top of the body tube.

Use a toothpick to hold the fin overlay pieces down while you apply the glue stick over the back.

When using a glue stick, the glued back is a bit slippery and allows the piece to be slid around for best positioning.




The fin tip pieces are wound around the ends of the antenna fins.

It's hard to get the first edge to adhere. Use the flat side of a razor blade to hold it down until the overlay wrap is on top.

Once you get the first full turn, the rest of the wrap goes around easily.

I had a little overlap at the top of the body tube.

Simply sand over the top and the excess overhang will roll off.