Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 19, Making The Canopy Part B

Before sanding, the ink line is still there along the rough edge.

TIP: Wrap 220 grit sandpaper around a tube one size smaller than what it will be glued onto. The finished model is BT-55 based, so initially sand the canopy edges on a BT-50. 

Why go with a smaller diameter tube? There may be some wobble making a wider curve than you will want. Sand up and down in a straight line.

As the edge is sanded, the remaining inked edge gets thinner. Some of the lip may flex and separate.

Sand a bit, check the edge and sand some more.

When the ink and thin edges break off,

Switch to 400 grit wrapped around the BT-55 tube - See the picture at the right.

Here's the dry fitted canopy on the BT-55 tube.

Don't glue in place yet - 

I'll have some specific tips about how to adhere the canopy to the tube.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 23, Wing Gluing

These large wing fins were difficult to glue on!

They remind me of the large Orbital Transport or even the Gyroc fins. You think they are tacked on then the weight of the fin pulls it off the body tube.

Looking from the rear - 

Make sure the fins are perpendicular before the glue sets up.

This fin required some tweaking.

On the left is an example of wood glue placed down the root edge.

TIP: Even out the glue line before placing on the body tube.

In the left side picture, notice the "V" formed by the thumb and index finger. Hold the V and run your fingers down the glue.

You should end up with an even glue line as shown on the right side. When pressed on the body tube fin line, there will be a cleaner joint with less glue squeezed out. 
 

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 11, Cutting The Intake Tube

Draw a centerline down the "K" tube.

The template is cut from the instructions and taped to the tube.

Line up the centerlines. Trace with pencil.

TIP: If you set the wide, rounded end of the template very close to the tube end - there is just enough to make a second intake fairing if you screw up the first attempt. 

The sidelines are straight and you can use a straightedge to cut them. Tape a metal ruler down the side pencil lines.

Or you can cut the lines freehand.

Don't cut through on a single pass! Use a new blade, cut slow and controlled. 

The edges are cleaned up with sandpaper on a block.

On the top is the rough cut,

Below is after sanding the edges flat an rounding the front and rear curves.

Estes Mini Scale Combo Pak, #0874, Tomahawk & Exocet, Build, Part 11, The Exocet Launch Lugs

Here's the instruction launch lug illustration:

The forward lug should be set back 3/8" to hide it behind the leading edge of the upper fin. 

The lower lug is set into the root edge of a lower (offset) fin.

If the lower lug is set into the root edge,

(The upper picture is a dry fit)

Enlarge the picture - 

Note the lugs aren't in line if glued on this way. This could cause friction on the launch rod.

The lugs are larger than the instruction illustrations suggest.

The lower lug was glued on a little to the right of the lower fin root edge.

Now the two lugs are in line.

Estes Mini Scale Combo Pak, #0874, Tomahawk & Exocet, Build, Part 10, Gluing On The Exocet Fins

I didn't trust the fin marking guide from the instruction sheet. I used the one I made from the Tomahawk build.

Enlarge the inset picture - 

TIP: Continue the pencil lines around the end of the body tube. If you are centering the root edges on the pencil lines, it helps to have an alignment point looking from the rear. 
 

The smaller rear fins are even with the end of the body tube. Check their height by setting something flat against the low end.

I set a wrap of tape with the top edge at 1 3/8". The top of the tape aligns the trailing edge of the upper fins.

The eight Exocet fins -

From the rear, double check your even spacing. The model is small, this could take some extra time.
 

Estes Mini Scale Combo Pak, #0874, Tomahawk & Exocet, Build, Part 9, Gluing On The Fins

The Tomahawk marking guide ends matched up when wrapped around the tube. I marked the fin locations.

TIP: Always check the guide by rotating it one quarter turn around the tube. At the second mark, the pencil mark didn't line up with the arrow on the guide!

I made up a marking guide and got the fin lines evenly spaced. 

A wrap of tape insured the tips of the root edge were at the same height. This is one of the few models where the trailing edges aren't even with the low end of the tube.

Glue fillets followed - 

On the left, the primer has been sanded down to the body tube for the launch lug to be centered between two fins.

On the right, is the shock cord cover position not in line with the launch lug.

That raised cover might cause friction with the launch rod.

Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 14, White (Under) Decals TIP

On the decal sheet are star and bar outlines. These will be the white decal layer under the blue and red Air Force logo.

The dashed blue border lines are a hair smaller than the blue border on the Air Force logo overlay decal.

The underlay decal is sprayed with gloss white paint. This seals the surface, no clear coat is necessary for a water transfer. 

You should still be able to see the dashed cut lines.

Cut out the white sprayed decals. 

Soak and transfer the white underlay decal.

I'm rolling a damp Q-tip over the paint thickness "decal" to smooth it out and remove excess water and air bubbles. Let dry.

The white decal on the model gets some water lightly rubbed on with a finger - leave wet. This water acts as a lubricant for the overlay positioning.

Soak and transfer the red and blue Air Force logo. In the right side picture it isn't in position yet.

After sliding around a bit, you can center and cover any white edges with the overlay decal. Use the rolled damp Q-tip again to smooth it out.

This white paint decal idea works well in some applications. It certainly looks better than the orange paint showing through the clear areas.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 3, Engine Mount & Shock Cords

The engine mount assembly is standard. A slip over coupler holds down the middle of the engine hook.

Here, the Kevlar line is tied beneath the upper plywood centering ring.

There isn't much space between the outer BT-50 and BT-20 engine mount tube. A larger square knot could bulge out the BT-50 tube wall.

I used an overhand knot, but rolled the Kevlar over and under the wrap 4 times. This still allows the wrap to be pulled tight and keeps the line close to the engine tube.

The wrap is set into the wet glue centering ring fillet. The loose tail is cut off and also set into the glue fillet.

The picture to the right shows the heat shrink tube slip down to the top of the ring, protecting the Kevlar line. 

The short shrink wrap is slid over the tied knot joining the elastic and Kevlar line.

Near the elastic, be careful with your heat gun - 

TIP: Using the low setting on my heat gun, the elastic started to melt!

I had to cut off the old knot and re-tie the elastic and Kevlar. I might tie an additional piece of elastic to the shorter line joined to the Kevlar.

The second time, I kept more distance between the heat gun and the heat shrink tube.

Second try was good! (Maybe that's why two pieces of tubing were included.)

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 45, Adding More Details

TIP: Contact cement dries yellow. Be carful not to get any excess glue where it could be seen later on the finished model. 

The inside surface the propulsion units get more details.

Glue the small rectangles first, covering the rectangle line outline on the decal placed earlier.

The rear of the dowel end sets into the circle printed on the decal. The front end stacks on the low end of the rectangle.

Now we can concentrate on all the other decals that aren't covered with cardstock or dowels.

Estes Mini Arcas, #2441, Part 20, Fin Taper Decals TIP

In April of 2024 on TRF, Neil W made a great suggestion about simulating fin tapers on the Mini Arcas.

The fins are only 1/16" thick, sanding a diamond fin taper would be very difficult.

TIP: Neil suggested a light gray printed decal set onto the rear half of the fins.

I had been wanting to try this ever since - Thanks Neil!

I drew up some fin tapers with a 10% black. Extras were copied and pasted - I did need them.

I'm not releasing this decal for home prints. My fin supports are a little thicker than the kit supplied pieces. My decals probably wouldn't fit your build. 

It's a challenge to fit the decals to the root edge details.

Add the fin fillets and they'll require individual fitting. Good thing I made the outside and trailing edges a little wide.

Here's the finished look. From a few feet away, the illusion is good. 

Maybe it's a bit dark. If a 5% gray were available I could have used that.

The overhanging edges were trimmed off with a "sawing" motion using a single edge razor blade.

Estes Mini Arcas, #2441, Part 19, Decals

I referenced Peter Alway's book, Rockets Of The World to double check the decal placement. ARCAS reads up, the ATLANTIC RESEARCH CORP. reads down on the other side.

Sight down the body tube to check the vertical alignment of the long decal.

TIP: Many people post about using a drop of dish detergent in the soaking water. They claim it allows a slippery decal, easier to position. 

On YORF, Micromeister brought up a good point. The dish soap can dilute the adhesive on the backside of the decal. 

Wet the area where the decal will be placed. Dip your finger in the water and rub the painted body tube leaving the (painted and sealed) tube a bit wet. Then slide the decal off the backing onto the wet model.

Here's the ARCAS decal between the two small lugs.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 15, Upper Decals

The roll pattern decal is shown positioned all the way against the top of the BT-55 tube. This could lead to upper edge peeling.

I'd recommend leaving a little of the clear above the upper edge.

Position the top of the decal a bit below the top of the BT-55 tube. 

The roll pattern has four black vertical boxes. How can you center four boxes over three fins? Well, you really don't. Center one box over the fin opposite the launch lug and let the wrap fall where it may.

I did a tape wrap below the decal final position marked with a pencil line directly above the fin below. This was the fin opposite the launch lug.

This centers one black box over one fin and spaces the other three boxes evenly around the body.

The TIMEWARP 00143 is set down a little to the bottom of the white tube.

TIP: Use your aluminum angle to check the alignment.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 5, Upper Centering Ring

Here's the upper laminated centering ring,

glued 1/2" from the bottom of the BT-5 tube cluster.

The instructions say to add glue fillets down and between the three tubes.

TIP: I wouldn't do this, it's a long, deep joint. When the glue dries you'll have bubbles and an uneven fillet.

I used a few drops of glue to fill the small center gap. This will block any ejection charge escape.

Years back we used "tissue/glue putty" to fill gaps like this. Tissue/glue putty is a mix of glue and tissue torn into very small pieces. It makes a strong gap filler.

This gap is small, if it were larger I'd make up some tissue/glue putty.

To read more about this gap filler: CLICK HERE 

This top and bottom glue fill also strengthens the mount.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 4, Centering Ring Laminates

The center triangle of the centering rings will probably break off. There's not much to hold it in the center.

I'll show how to block the hole (and the ejection charge) in the next post.

When laminating the two sets of two rings, 

use one of the BT-5 tubes to check the alignment.

Don't glue the tube to the rings (yet), use the tube to be sure all three holes are lined up.

The instructions suggest sliding the ring down from the top into a glue ring.

For a cleaner build and less visible glue -  

I slid the centering ring up from the bottom pushing the glue ring up. It's a cleaner visual outside joint on the finished model.. 

You don't have to use much glue, you can always add a glue fillet later.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 3, Engine Blocks

Jim Flis (Fliskits) gets credit for this engine block setting idea calling it the "Block and Tackle.".

TIP: The mini motors (friction fitted) extend 1/4" out the rear of the BT-5 tubes. 

A 1/4" strip of masking tape is wrapped around and even with the end of the yellow spacer tube. 

This tape ring stops when it hits the end of the tube. 

All three engine block will be at the same depth.

The instructions the engine block glue line at 1" inside the tubes.

I'd recommend using a dowel pencil marked at 1 1/4" to apply a ring of glue inside the tube.

Apply the glue ring, slide in the engine block. Use the taped yellow tube to set the ring depth.

The three BT-5 tubes are ready for the centering rings.

New Hole Punch

I just got a new hole punch. 

The punches get dull after a few years of use and it's hard to find replacement parts that fit. This is heavier duty and replacement hole punch tubes are included!

Also in the box: A wrench to tighten or change the cutting tubes and a 6" long metal ruler. 

To see it, CLICK HERE

For $13.99 it's probably the best available.

Centering Rings: I use hole punches for engine hook relief notches in centering rings and launch lug holes.

Launch Lugs: Rotated to the largest punch (4.5 mm), it's a perfect friction fit for sliding in a 1/8" diameter launch lug.

Parachutes: Instead of tearing holes with a pencil tip, the smallest diameter punch works perfectly for shroud line holes in a plastic parachute. 

TIP: Be sure to use thin cardstock under the thin chute material for a clean punch. 

Rotary punches are handy for belt holes and many other household uses.