New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 3, Engine Mount & Shock Cords

The engine mount assembly is standard. A slip over coupler holds down the middle of the engine hook.

Here, the Kevlar line is tied beneath the upper plywood centering ring.

There isn't much space between the outer BT-50 and BT-20 engine mount tube. A larger square knot could bulge out the BT-50 tube wall.

I used an overhand knot, but rolled the Kevlar over and under the wrap 4 times. This still allows the wrap to be pulled tight and keeps the line close to the engine tube.

The wrap is set into the wet glue centering ring fillet. The loose tail is cut off and also set into the glue fillet.

The picture to the right shows the heat shrink tube slip down to the top of the ring, protecting the Kevlar line. 

The short shrink wrap is slid over the tied knot joining the elastic and Kevlar line.

Near the elastic, be careful with your heat gun - 

TIP: Using the low setting on my heat gun, the elastic started to melt!

I had to cut off the old knot and re-tie the elastic and Kevlar. I might tie an additional piece of elastic to the shorter line joined to the Kevlar.

The second time, I kept more distance between the heat gun and the heat shrink tube.

Second try was good! (Maybe that's why two pieces of tubing were included.)

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 45, Adding More Details

TIP: Contact cement dries yellow. Be carful not to get any excess glue where it could be seen later on the finished model. 

The inside surface the propulsion units get more details.

Glue the small rectangles first, covering the rectangle line outline on the decal placed earlier.

The rear of the dowel end sets into the circle printed on the decal. The front end stacks on the low end of the rectangle.

Now we can concentrate on all the other decals that aren't covered with cardstock or dowels.

Estes Mini Arcas, #2441, Part 20, Fin Taper Decals TIP

In April of 2024 on TRF, Neil W made a great suggestion about simulating fin tapers on the Mini Arcas.

The fins are only 1/16" thick, sanding a diamond fin taper would be very difficult.

TIP: Neil suggested a light gray printed decal set onto the rear half of the fins.

I had been wanting to try this ever since - Thanks Neil!

I drew up some fin tapers with a 10% black. Extras were copied and pasted - I did need them.

I'm not releasing this decal for home prints. My fin supports are a little thicker than the kit supplied pieces. My decals probably wouldn't fit your build. 

It's a challenge to fit the decals to the root edge details.

Add the fin fillets and they'll require individual fitting. Good thing I made the outside and trailing edges a little wide.

Here's the finished look. From a few feet away, the illusion is good. 

Maybe it's a bit dark. If a 5% gray were available I could have used that.

The overhanging edges were trimmed off with a "sawing" motion using a single edge razor blade.

Estes Mini Arcas, #2441, Part 19, Decals

I referenced Peter Alway's book, Rockets Of The World to double check the decal placement. ARCAS reads up, the ATLANTIC RESEARCH CORP. reads down on the other side.

Sight down the body tube to check the vertical alignment of the long decal.

TIP: Many people post about using a drop of dish detergent in the soaking water. They claim it allows a slippery decal, easier to position. 

On YORF, Micromeister brought up a good point. The dish soap can dilute the adhesive on the backside of the decal. 

Wet the area where the decal will be placed. Dip your finger in the water and rub the painted body tube leaving the (painted and sealed) tube a bit wet. Then slide the decal off the backing onto the wet model.

Here's the ARCAS decal between the two small lugs.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 15, Upper Decals

The roll pattern decal is shown positioned all the way against the top of the BT-55 tube. This could lead to upper edge peeling.

I'd recommend leaving a little of the clear above the upper edge.

Position the top of the decal a bit below the top of the BT-55 tube. 

The roll pattern has four black vertical boxes. How can you center four boxes over three fins? Well, you really don't. Center one box over the fin opposite the launch lug and let the wrap fall where it may.

I did a tape wrap below the decal final position marked with a pencil line directly above the fin below. This was the fin opposite the launch lug.

This centers one black box over one fin and spaces the other three boxes evenly around the body.

The TIMEWARP 00143 is set down a little to the bottom of the white tube.

TIP: Use your aluminum angle to check the alignment.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 5, Upper Centering Ring

Here's the upper laminated centering ring,

glued 1/2" from the bottom of the BT-5 tube cluster.

The instructions say to add glue fillets down and between the three tubes.

TIP: I wouldn't do this, it's a long, deep joint. When the glue dries you'll have bubbles and an uneven fillet.

I used a few drops of glue to fill the small center gap. This will block any ejection charge escape.

Years back we used "tissue/glue putty" to fill gaps like this. Tissue/glue putty is a mix of glue and tissue torn into very small pieces. It makes a strong gap filler.

This gap is small, if it were larger I'd make up some tissue/glue putty.

To read more about this gap filler: CLICK HERE 

This top and bottom glue fill also strengthens the mount.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 4, Centering Ring Laminates

The center triangle of the centering rings will probably break off. There's not much to hold it in the center.

I'll show how to block the hole (and the ejection charge) in the next post.

When laminating the two sets of two rings, 

use one of the BT-5 tubes to check the alignment.

Don't glue the tube to the rings (yet), use the tube to be sure all three holes are lined up.

The instructions suggest sliding the ring down from the top into a glue ring.

For a cleaner build and less visible glue -  

I slid the centering ring up from the bottom pushing the glue ring up. It's a cleaner visual outside joint on the finished model.. 

You don't have to use much glue, you can always add a glue fillet later.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 3, Engine Blocks

Jim Flis (Fliskits) gets credit for this engine block setting idea calling it the "Block and Tackle.".

TIP: The mini motors (friction fitted) extend 1/4" out the rear of the BT-5 tubes. 

A 1/4" strip of masking tape is wrapped around and even with the end of the yellow spacer tube. 

This tape ring stops when it hits the end of the tube. 

All three engine block will be at the same depth.

The instructions the engine block glue line at 1" inside the tubes.

I'd recommend using a dowel pencil marked at 1 1/4" to apply a ring of glue inside the tube.

Apply the glue ring, slide in the engine block. Use the taped yellow tube to set the ring depth.

The three BT-5 tubes are ready for the centering rings.

New Hole Punch

I just got a new hole punch. 

The punches get dull after a few years of use and it's hard to find replacement parts that fit. This is heavier duty and replacement hole punch tubes are included!

Also in the box: A wrench to tighten or change the cutting tubes and a 6" long metal ruler. 

To see it, CLICK HERE

For $13.99 it's probably the best available.

Centering Rings: I use hole punches for engine hook relief notches in centering rings and launch lug holes.

Launch Lugs: Rotated to the largest punch (4.5 mm), it's a perfect friction fit for sliding in a 1/8" diameter launch lug.

Parachutes: Instead of tearing holes with a pencil tip, the smallest diameter punch works perfectly for shroud line holes in a plastic parachute. 

TIP: Be sure to use thin cardstock under the thin chute material for a clean punch. 

Rotary punches are handy for belt holes and many other household uses.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 11, Cutting The Chrome Fin Trim - TIP

TIP: The larger Estes Optima kit supplies you with holographic tape trim. It's a long strip that won't wrap over the rounded leading edge of the fin, leaving a gap. Here's how I made a continuous "roll-over" piece. 

   

A fin tracing and indications of the purple and chrome trim.

The tracing is mirrored so the pieces could smoothly cover and connect on the leading edge.

A little bit of planning could saves a lot of frustration when dealing with peel and stick trim.

Here's the two templates cut from cardstock. The wider purple piece is on the left, the thinner chrome strip is to the right.

Mark the center fold over line.

Note the top and bottom ends are extended beyond the trailing edges of the fins. This allows an overhang to be trimmed off later.

Apply a light wipe of glue stick to the backside of the thinner chrome template.

The glue coat holds the template in place as you cut the chrome underneath.

The top picture shows the template tacked to the chrome. Cut around the template using a straightedge and sharp knife.

The light wipe of the glue stick allows the template to be lifted after cutting and used again.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 9, Gluing On The Fins

Here's the build with the rear and forward fins in place. 

On this downscale, the smaller fins are 4 5/16" from the rear of the tube.

The rear lug is glued 1/4" from the end of the body tube.

The forward launch lug is glued 7 5/8" from the rear.

TIP: You can fill bubbles that form in dried lug fillets. It takes three applications of wood glue.

Apply and smooth the first fillet, let dry.

Apply second fillet, smooth and let dry.

Apply a third fillet, smooth and let dry.

Those bubbles should be gone -

New Way Blade Runner, Part 16, Vinyl Trim

A strip of black, self-adhesive vinyl is supplied to go over the color separation line.

TIP: The masking line paint ridge could show under the vinyl so I lightly sanded the paint ridge with some 400 grit wrapped around a Q-tip. Don't sand too wide, just knock down the paint ridge. 

On the left,

Fold back the backing to position just the start of the wrap.

On the right,

The wrap in place. Start and finish the wrap on the launch lug side.

New Way Blade Runner, Part 7, Gluing In The Engine Mount

The Kevlar and shrink wrap are run down thru the mount so they won't get in the way.

The instructions have you apply glue 1 3/4" from the bottom of the main airframe tube.

I use a dowel to roll a line of glue inside the tube. Setting the dowel beside the engine mount shows me the glue line would be better at 1 7/8" to apply the glue just below the upper centering ring.

Notice the two depth pencil lines on the dowel. The lower pencil line is the 1 7/8" mark.

A ring of glue is set around the top edge of the dowel.

Set the dowel in the tube up to the 1 7/8" pencil mark and roll the glue into a ring line inside the tube. You will have to apply more glue on the dowel to get a ring all the way around inside the tube.

Slide the engine mount in, turning the mount when in contact with the glue to even out and make a smooth interior fillet.

With the mount glue dried, 

TIP: Note the straightened coat hanger hook in the right side picture. The hook will help get the shock cord back through the top of the tube.

 

There isn't much room to get a fillet at the lower centering ring/body tube joint. 

I applied a small glue drop to one side of my long tweezers. Set the drop in on the joint to smooth as best your can. Keep some Q-tips handy to pick up any glue boogers.

Wadding Around Parachute? TIP

Looking over the new Estes Vogel instructions:

I was curious about the large booster recovery.

A "hatch" releases the parachute at staging.

Notice there are a couple of pieces of recovery wadding protecting the top of the parachute from the flame of the sustainer motor.

 

In my single stage models, I've been using extra wadding wrapped around the bottom of a parachute for years. This is in addition to the wadding already in the tube.

Pictured at the right is red Quest wadding, crinkled up for easier use.

TIP: As extra insurance to prevent any hot spot melts -
Cut a piece of sheet wadding down to about 3 1/2" square. Set the low end of the packed chute in the center of the square.  Wrap the low end of the parachute with the wadding. Wrap the sides of the wadding up the chute.

It is important to cut the wadding square smaller. You want the wadding sheet to peel away from the parachute at ejection.

Rocket Tip - Gluing?

Paint is drying on the LTV Scout - Decals have been shipped. 

So I'm stuck for a few days before the final white spray coats. 

Until then, some blog post filler . . .

 

I looked up the new instructions for the re-release of the Estes D Region Tomahawk. CLICK HERE

I was curious to see if there were any changes from the original kit available from 2007-2014.

I did notice something I've seen in other instructions before.

Why apply lines of glue around the D coupler then slide the B tube over it? You'll be left with a lot of glue squeezed out at the joint. Sure you could wipe it off, but there will be some glue residue seen on the finished model.

TIP: From a comment by anonymous: Those red couplers included in Estes kits can grab in the wrong place when using white or yellow wood glues. Best bet is to use epoxy on coupler/tube joints. Epoxy does run, keep an eye out for drips when the glue is setting up.

TIP: Apply the glue inside the B tube and slide the dry D coupler into the glue. 

Maybe Estes thought that would leave more glue at the low end of the butt joint when the tubes are joined.

You could always concentrate a bit more glue at the low end of the upper B tube.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 25, New Turbine Exhaust Tube

After lots of handling during the build, the exhaust tube broke loose.

There wasn't much glue holding it against the motor mount tube.

(The picture on the left shows the first black tube.) 

I cut a new one and filled the seam with CWF. It was sprayed black off the model.

For a better, wider glue bond against the inside motor tube - 

The side of the lug was pushed in to flatten and widen the gluing surface. It took a little coaxing with a fingernail to put a curve in the flattened side.

The lug was sprayed black off the model. The inside end was masked off for better glue adhesion.

Wood glue was used to set the lug against the tube on the inside.

I wadded up a paper towel to put pressure on the lug and position it at the right angle.

After the inside glue dried,

CA glue was applied with a toothpick leaving a hard, clear fillet.

TIP: Cut off just the very tip off the toothpick and round the new end with sandpaper. The wider, round tip will hold more glue for the transfer onto the model.

This second try had a cleaner color separation with it being painted black before gluing into the rear centering ring hole.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 23, Fin Face Decals

I had to trim the solar panel decals after trying a dry fit on the square fins.

Cuts were made on all four sides almost to the vertical and horizontal lines.

These transferred easily. Wet the entire flat surface before applying the large decal. Centering took a moment or two.

The final look was better than I hoped.

While this doesn't have the raised texture of the original kit stickers, it still gives the right impression.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 22, Chrome Fin Faces

With the backing still on - 

Fold the chrome trim piece in half so the crease will roll over the leading edge.

Peel off the backing and set the fold over the rounded forward edge.

Don't adhere the entire piece, but pull down on the leading edge pinching between your thumb and index finger.

After the leading is good, then smooth the rest of the skin from top to bottom.

Over time, the chrome cover might lift.

Here's what happened to the Phoenix Bird sticker. I don't think I got a good tight fit over the leading edge.

The piece was cut to the width of the fin but cut a little long to overhand the trailing edge. 

After the skin is burnished, the overhang is carefully trimmed off with a new single edge razor blade.

Here's one of the good fins.

There are some dust specks that make raised areas on the others.

I hope the solar panel decals will camouflage the spots.

TIP: Chrome Monokote Trim material can be hard to find. I got my self-adhesive chrome sheeting from Balsa Machining Service.