Quest Stiletto Build Part 2, Engine Mount 24mm Upgrade

This Siletto model is 26.5" tall.
Usually any model I build over two feet either gets a 18mm cluster or a 24mm D engine upgrade.
I've had great flights with my Quest Aerospace One with D engines, this model is about the same size. It'll get a D engine in a reinforced engine mount.

If you are careful you can cut the kit centering rings for the wider BT-50 engine mount tube.

Center a 2 3/4" long BT-50 over the kit's 18mm/35mm centering ring and trace around the tube.
Check to be sure the drawn ring is centered, if not center and trace again.

Use a new blade to carefully cut out the center.
I tend to cut just inside the pencil line for a tight fit.

The Quest rings can de-laminate when cutting. Make a few lighter passes with the blade as opposed to one hard cut.

After cutting check the fit on the BT-50 and widen if needed.

This mount will also get a replaceable Kevlar line.
On the left is the hollow generic Q-tip shaft. The centering rings were punched with a rotary punch.

Directly opposite the Kevlar tube punch are two more punches for engine hook relief (top) and movement (below).
On the far right is a homemade engine hook bent from the interior spine of an old windshield wiper.

Estes Solar Launch Controller #FS-10 Part 2

Here's the controller, right out of the box.

The micro clips are clean, never used.
The interlock key is there!
Even the black name sticker was set on straight.

From the 1972 catalog, here's the prototype, pre-production picture.
The profile shape is the same, but in the finished product - 
The safety key doesn't have the black molded end.
The launch button is gray and surrounded by the decal.
Below the launch button is a ridged panel, not the three raised blocks.

From the side - 
I like how the upper end is raised up to easily see the key, light and button.

Opened up - 
There is a piece of paper taped into the inside showing battery directions.
Usually the positive and negative battery positions would be molded into the plastic case.
Whoever assembled the unit felt it necessary to add this. Well, we've all put in batteries incorrectly and wondered why things didn't work.

There is no battery acid discoloration on the contacts. This controller was never used!

Quest Stiletto Build Part 1, Parts

Here's a great Shrox design introduced in the 2010 Quest catalog.
I understand Shrox likes conical pointy nose cones, the older MPC Nike Smoke nose cone is used here.
This design also used a Shrox standard, the 50mm intake tube underneath.

Here's all the parts:
The 18" 35mm main air frame tube
Two piece Nike Smoke nose cone with tip
Laser cut balsa wing fins
Large decal sheet
1/8" launch lug
18mm engine mount
10" long 50mm intake tube not shown
(I don't know why I didn't include it in the picture)

Some parts of interest:
The 35mm body tube had a discolored spot on it. Oil? I'll have to double check it when the spray paint is applied.
14" parachute has thick off-white shroud lines (replace)
Thin 18mm yellow engine mount tube (replace, more on this later)
The Nike nose cone tip
Engine hook (replace with spring steel hook)

Estes Solar Launch Controller #FS-10 Part 1

Oh boy - Just the box!

I was surprised to win this one on EBAY for $9.99 and $5.95 shipping.
A little concerned when it arrived in just a padded envelope!
Luckily, there was no damage or crushing of the box or controller.

The SOLAR LAUNCH CONTROLLER debuted in the 1972 Estes catalog for $2.95. HERE 
But, you had to wait until it was available in May, 1972.

Also new were the Solar Igniters, just like the ones you still get in the engines now. Well, until the Clear pyrogen Starters show up in more engine packs.

It featured:

• Consistent Reliability
• Easy-Action Grip
• 15 Foot Launch Cable
• Pre-Soldered Wire Harness
• Uses Only Estes Solar Igniters (NWI-2)

This one was originally sold at Toys R Us for $7.68

The back of the box is a checklist saying:
"Check the models you want!"

The in old Model Rocket News, Estes included a kit listing before Christmas.
On the checklist was the carefully worded:
"Leave this where your parents can find it!"

Tacky, tacky, tacky.

The "Old" Shrox Stiletto

Shrox had a Stiletto design and kits before his stint with Quest.

In 2008, Bill Eichelberger (A Fish Named Wallyum) posted some pics HERE in a YORF thread.
You can see the original Stiletto design, BT-60 based and flown with a D12-7.
Well, I'd lean towards a D12-5, that's my plan anyway.

There are plenty of Shrox designs pictured in that thread. Inspiring stuff!

Red River Rocketry Starliner DST, Finished

This was an easy build and a change from the ordinary.
A long piece of round elastic was substituted for the shorter flat elastic from the kit.
The elastic was tied on making sure the Kevlar didn't overhang the end of the body tube.
The red Mylar eight shroud line parachute looks great.

I'm looking forward to flying this one.

Red River Rocketry Starliner DST Part 10 General Decal Tips

On the Starliner you've got to center the window decals on opposite sides of the body tube. But on the back end there are three fins, not four. You can't line them up looking down the edge of the fin.
Go ahead and wrap a strip of paper around the tube if you were making a four "fin" marking guide.

Work off the #1 fin opposite the launch lug under the body.
With the model painted you can look straight down from the front and see the fin leading edge reflection down the tube.
In front of the reflected line is the marked strip of paper. One pencil mark is lined up with the reflection of the #1 fin.

On the sides you should now have four marks on the sides of the paper strip. Use the marks on the sides to line up the long windows decals on each side of the tube.

TIP: When placing a canopy window decal over a curved nose cone -
Cut the decal in half down the middle between the windows.

When cut in half it will better fit the curve of the nose cone with fewer or no wrinkles on the side.

TIP: When soaking smaller decals -
It's a pain to chase them around the bottom of your water glass.

Use long tweezers to hold the decal. Totally immerse the decal in the water while still holding onto the decal with the tweezers.

Then "float" the decal on the surface of the water.
While still holding onto the decal bring it to the surface. Open the tweezers and leave the decal on the top. It should float.
With the decal floating at the top of the glass it makes for an easier pickup out of the water.
After soaking set the decal on a paper towel until you are ready to transfer it onto the model.
Only soak one or two decals at one time.

I'll typically leave decals in the water glass for 20 seconds. Lightly rub the decal to see if it easily releases from the backing paper. If it is still holding on soak a few seconds more.
Kit decals come from many sources and there is no standard soaking time. 20 seconds is just a good average for me.