It's hard to see in the picture but there was a small crease on one end of the tube.
If I glue a fin over it, it will strengthen the tube and hide the crease.
When marking the fin lines, I purposely set the tube crease on a fin position line.
This is another thin BT-50 tube. To protect it from crimping a 2" long, 50 sized coupler was cut.
A glue line was set up in the tube at about the middle of the coupler final position.
The coupler was pushed into place using the engine mount.
The engine mount was removed.
More glue was spread in the tube and the mount slid in place.
TIP: It's easier to line up the engine hook when a pencil line is drawn down the body tube, this time in line with the lower launch lug.
The bottoms of the 3/16" tunnels are too flat to fit the curve of the body tube.
Some 220 grit was wrapped around a BT-20, a smaller tube than the BT-50 tube supplied in the kit. TIP: Sometimes you can get a better rounded root edge by sanding the underside curve on a smaller tube.
On the right the upper picture shows the fit of the 3/16" tunnel before sanding the curve into the bottom.
The inset picture shows the fit after the contour sanding.
The bottom sanding isn't really needed on the shorter 1/8" tunnels.
After not getting a good answer about Aleene's Tacky Glue, I sent the same question to Elmer's - Comments: A while back you changed the old White Glue formula to a "New Stronger Formula" I build model rockets. The old formula was thicker and allowed parts (engine mounts and couplers) to "slip" together. You did have some working time with the glue. The "New Stronger Formula" is very thin by comparison. Engine mounts and couplers will "lock-up" before you can slide them into their correct position in the model. Do you make any other glue that is the same as the old formula white glue? Thank you, Chris Michielssen www.modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com ________________________________ Dear Chris,
The closest product we currently have to the old Glue-All formula is our Washable School Glue. Sincerely, Brian Rumschlag Consumer Response Analyst _________________________________ I read somewhere that the School Glue isn't as strong a bond as the regular Elmer's White Glue.
Trying to find information about a better white glue, I did an email chat with a representative from Aleene's Tacky Glue:
You are now chatting with 'Rebecca'
You: Hi Rebecca!
You: My name is Chris
Rebecca: Hello, how may I help you?
You: I was using Elmer's white glue on my model rockets. They came out with a new formula and an engine mount can "freeze" up in the wrong positions.
You: Do you make a glue that is similar to the older Elmer's formula? Something that allows a slide of parts before it can possibly lock up?
Rebecca: Unfortunately, I am not sure of the formula for Elmer's, (since they are our competitor)- our Original Tacky Glue is a great craft glue that will allow some re-positioning prior to setting. This glue takes about 30 minutes to set.
You: Elmer's changed to a "New Stronger Formula" that seems watered down. Many model rocket modelers have problems with it, especially with engine mounts and couplers (joining tubes together with a "sleeve") You: Do you have a formula that is "slippery"?
Rebecca: Generally all of our glues are "tacky"- so they are not that slippery
You: Okay, thanks for your time. It's just a pain to mix up epoxy! Well, that got me nowhere!
I don't think Rebecca realizes what engine mount or couplers are. She probably gives out advice on how to glue on glitter.
The ends of the nose block were a bit rough.
On the right is the before, the inset picture shows the end block after being cleaned up with 220 grit on a block.
The edges were rounded by hand sanding with 220 grit. The rounded end makes and easier insertion in the tube without peeling up the inside tube wraps.
After the nose block is glued halfway into the short upper tube,
the clay weight is pressed into the tube. Don't insert all the clay at one time!
Press some in place and insert the nose cone shoulder. Add more clay until the base of the nose cone is against the top of the clay.
The fins on the Corporal are small and the clay weight is needed for stability.
I used as much of the clay as I could fit in the tube and still fully insert the nose cone.
.32 oz. of clay was left meaning just over 1/2 oz of clay is in the model.
The tunnel pieces are cut to size.
The 3/16" square pieces are cut to 8 1/4" long. The two 1/8" square sticks are cut to 4 1/2" long.
The tops are rounded off.
Initial shaping as done with 220 grit on a block. The block helps keep the shape consistent.
The ends get an egg or elliptical shape.
Mark a center line with pencil and sand the ends round centering towards the pencil line.
The end tops are sanded to a half round with the block.
Knock off any squared edges hand sanding with 400 grit.
The inset picture shows the two tunnels back to back (root edge to root edge). This is an easy way to check the consistency of the end shaping.
After you check both sides, flip the top tunnel over and check it again against the lower tunnel.