Friday, February 23, 2018

Old Enerjet Engine

I only have two original Enerjet engines, both are E24-7s meant for my Enerjet Nike Smoke.
This one has a hand written number on it, "477". You'd think that might mean April of 1977, but the Enerjet product line only lasted a few years. 
To see the 1972 Enerjet catalog: CLICK HERE

The casing looks to be fiberglass, the nozzle is graphite.
There is a bead of epoxy around the nozzle.

The upper end has an old style paper cap over the ejection charge.

Is it a coincidence that the new Quest Q-Jet labels are orange, black and white? 

One thing that hurt Enerjet sales was the price. Each E24 engine was $4.00 in 1972. That was way out of line for most hobbyists.
Let's hope that isn't a factor for the new Quest 18mm composite engines.

ASP D Region Tomahawk Build,Finished

All my experiences building and launching ASP kits has been very positive.
The D Region Tomahawk has always been a favorite, very clean lines.
This BT-5 based model should perform well even with a 1/2A3-4t engine. Sure, it would look best with a flat finish but I want to keep the model clean.

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Quest Q-Jet Composite Engines (Almost) Available!

On the NAR Facebook page Roy Green posted:
"Quest Q-Jets (Composite A and B) are now up on their website. Certified by TRA. Priced about 20% more than comparable Estes motor . . ." 

For now - If you try to add the new engines to your shopping cart you get a "Product Unavailable" message. To go to the Quest Aerospace website: CLICK HERE
A3-4, A3-6, B4-4 and B4-6 engines are sold in two-packs. A engines are $7.99, B engines are $8.99.

Looks like C8 and D12 engines are also on the way . . . 
That 18mm D12-3 engine might be perfect for models like the Mars Lander.

ASP D Region Tomahawk Build, Part 17, Nose Cone Tip Paint

Just the very tip of the nose cone is brown.
The instructions say you could dip the nose cone tip in paint, it's worth a try.

The same brown from the nose cone base was sprayed into a baggie set in a mixing cup.

The nose tip was dipped in the paint but I couldn't get an even line.

I came back with a paint brush trying to straighten out the edge. That only made the paint surface uneven.

After the brown completely dried the high spots were lightly sanded with 400 grit.
I sprayed more paint in a cup and brushed again. This time it came out better.

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

ASP D Region Tomahawk Build, Part 16, Fin Plate Setting and Streamer

The backs of the card stock fin plates were sprayed with 3M 77 adhesive spray.
Here's how the plates fit around the curve of the tube and with the folds tucked into the fin root edges.

The great thing - the fin plates covered the bad and touched up mask lines.

A Q-tip was used to gently press the fold into the root edge. You won't scratch the print using a soft burnisher.
There is a 1/8" wide aluminum band at the rear edge of the body tube. Instead of masking and painting, a strip of Trim Monokote was cut and applied. It took a few tries to tuck it into the fin base but it was easier than masking.

The streamer is thick yellow plastic, 3" wide X 24" long.
The streamer is taped to the shock cord, 1" from the end of the streamer. Fold the end over the shock cord and tape it again.

ASP D Region Tomahawk Build, Part 15, Fin Plate Forming and Adhesion

Bend the long (already embossed) sides over a straight edge.
You should be able to set the metal edge of a ruler into the embossed line. Press up with your fingertips. Crease the entire length of the fold.

You'll have to go back and curve the bottom again after folding the sides.
Here's the underside and outside of the fin plates.
Set them into the space between the fins to be sure you have the curve and folds right. Re-form them if needed.

Set them on a scrap piece of cardboard for adhesive spray. Here they are set on masking tape with the sticky side up.

The backside of the plates were lightly sprayed with 3M 77 spray.

Tuesday, February 20, 2018

ASP D Region Tomahawk Build, Part 14, Folding and Cutting the Fin Plates

Emboss the fold lines before cutting out the fin plates. It's easier to make the fold lines while the pieces are still on the larger paper.

I'm using the tip of a butter knife, the flat area above any serrations on the cut side of the knife.

Most of the straight lines were cut with a new X-Acto blade and a straightedge. Cut and leave the black edge border lines.

The shortest lines were cut with a single edge razor blade.

Here's the four plates ready to be formed.
Notice the bolt head circles - They alternate three bolts then four bolts.

To wrap around the body tube, form a curve in the plate in the heel of your hand. Use a 1/4" dowel or the rear of an X-Acto handle.