Tuesday, June 28, 2016

Estes Interceptor Build #1250, Part 15, Masking The Wing Pod

There are a lot of root edges and nooks to get paint on evenly.

As careful as I was to get full coverage there was still a few spots near the wing pods that didn't enough white paint.
Rusto 2X touch-ups blends in pretty well. Paint was sprayed into a cup and a Q-tip used to roll on some gloss white.
It would have been easier to paint the wing pods separately off the model.  But there would have been a joint gap on the upper part of the pod. The face card model was probably painted that way. the same reason you paint the tail cone black, off the model.

The mask of the wing pods was interesting but not hard to do.
Scotch tape was set down on my patio door glass.
The wing pod was set over it and a pencil tracing was done right around the outside edge of the nose cone. The side of the pencil was set right on the nose of the pod.

Cut down the pencil line first then mark down the drawn line with a permanent marker.
Cut with just enough pressure to cut through the tape. Press too hard and you could scratch the glass.

Trace and cut two right sides and two left sides.

A small thin strip was set over the top.

The curved piece cut in the previous picture is set down the pod/wing joint in the middle of the fillet.

Monday, June 27, 2016

Semroc SPEV for Auction on Ebay

A finished Semroc SPEV is up for auction on Ebay:
The auction runs through Sunday evening, July 3.

This build is very clean with sharp mask lines.
It's a bit of Estes (overstock) history and a great demonstration rocket.

I'm also selling a Quest launcher and controller: CLICK HERE

Stop by, make a bid and support the blog!

Estes Interceptor Build #1250, Part 14, Wing Pod Gluing

The two piece wing pods were glued on with the Beacon Fabri-Tac Glue.
If any of this thick glue squeezes out, wipe it away immediately. It is a bit gummy going on and dries hard.

After drying, the wing pods seem strong and very well adhered.
Notice the gap at the front of the pod/wing joint.
The gap was filled in with two fillets of Titebond M&TG.
After a small spray of gloss white, any fillet marks and glue boogers were sanded down for the next color coat.

Sure it'd be easier to paint the pods separately and glue them on afterwards, but I wanted to get rid of the gap at the pod/wing joint.

I had to dry fit the antennas on the vertical fins and see what the model profile looked like.
This was a very cool design in 1971 and is still impressive 45 years later.

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Estes Interceptor Build #1250, Part 13, Parachute Fix Tips

After a good tug, the shroud lines on the pre-assembled parachute seemed pretty strong.
The reinforcement disks were peeling off! They also tore easily telling me they were paper.
The disks will be replaced with Avery plastic disks.
I didn't want to replace the shroud lines. There is a way to work around them.

Cut a line through one side of a plastic disk.
The inset picture shows how the disk will sit with the cut facing away from the shroud line.

Fold over the parachute corner and open up the shroud line loop at the tie.
Slip the cut ring through the open loop being careful not to touch the sticky back to the plastic chute. It's a little tricky but can be done.
It may take a few tries to get the disk into position. In the end this takes much less time than tying on new shroud lines.

It's hard to see in the picture but the cut ring line is to the center, opposite any stress of the shroud line pulling on the parachute.

Saturday, June 25, 2016

Estes Interceptor Build #1250, Part 12, White Paint Sanding

After filling with CWF and sanded down primer/filler I had a lot of raised grain. This really shows up on the first white undercoat.

In addition to the raised grain there was some open grain pores throughout.

Light sanding will get rid of the raised pore lines. This is pretty much dry sanding. A wet sand might get into the thin coat of paint and swell the wood. The open pores got a fill with more CWF. The excess was taken off with a razor blade so there will be very little to sand off.

The white undercoats act as a final filler when sanded down.
Look close around the upper launch lug. much of the Titebond M&TG fillet "boogers" have been sanded to surface.

Friday, June 24, 2016

Estes Interceptor Build #1250, Part 11, Fillets

The fin root edges were glued on with yellow Carpenter's Glue. I don't initially use much, this way I can remove and re-position the fin if it ended up out of line.

A fillet of Carpenter's Wood Glue follows.
Then a second fillet of Titebond M&TG.
The ends are done first. Apply a small bead over the top of the fin and smooth out with a fingertip rounding over the tip joint.

Then do the sides.
The long wing fins fillet should be applied one half at a time. The Titebond M&TG skins over fairly quickly so do long fillet lines applications in two steps.
On the left is the applied glue bead right out of the bottle. The inset right side picture is the fillet smoothed out.
Apply the glue bead and smooth out with a fingertip. Smooth twice, the first time to even out and remove excess. The second time picks up any glue spread out too wide and away from the joint.

A Better Shock Cord Knot? Tips, Part 2

Tie an over hand loop knot in both the Kevlar and elastic cords. The loops should be about 3/4" long. (Left side picture)

Pass the Elastic loop over the Kevlar loop. The elastic loop can pass over the Kevlar knot. (Right side picture)

Pass the loose end of the elastic through the Kevlar loop. (Left side picture)
Pull the end of the elastic almost completely through the Kevlar loop.
Pass the elastic knot and loose end up and through the Kevlar loop.
Pass the Kevlar knot and loose end down and through the elastic loop. (Right side picture)

On the left are the loops after the knots and ends are passed through, before cinching up the knot.

On the right is the finished and tightened knot.
The new knot is cleaner, stronger with less stress on the elastic.

You may not get it right the first time. All new knots take practice.