Friday, March 27, 2015
Jim (qquake2k on TRF) posed an interesting question:
"Does anybody have any suggestions for bending a Troll doll's arms? I need to bend them forward a little bit. I've thought about heating or cutting. I'm afraid enough heat to bend the arms might melt the hair. And I'm afraid cutting would just hack it up. Any ideas?"
That first post didn't give a reason why he needed to bend the arms.
"Using some of your suggestions, I decided to go for it. I wrapped the hair with a wet paper towel, and used a small butane torch to heat the arms, one at a time. As you can see, I was a bit too aggressive at first. But I found that if I kept the torch farther away and kept it moving, just as the plastic began to smoke a tiny bit, I could bend the arm. After bending both arms a bit, I got him to fit in the tube."
That last line: ". . . I got him to fit in the tube" gave it away.
Truly a worthy payload for the upscale X-Ray.
The Troll space suit completes the look and conveniently hides any evidence of the elbow abuse.
Jim, that's a great looking X-Ray.
Thursday, March 26, 2015
In a comment, Jim asked to see some other models in the fleet.
Here's the Shelf Queens, the models that don't fly!
(Yes, they are in a kitchen cabinet. I'm single and can get away with this.)Most are Dr. Zooch models, two Semroc Deci-Scales, an Estes 260 Space Booster and three different sizes of Mercury Redstones.
Most have flown -
The 260 Space Booster, MPC Nike Smoke, Zooch Aries Stick, Zooch Little Joe I, Zooch Jupiter C, Zooch Atlas Agena B, Zooch SLS and the Zooch Titan IIIC.
The stands are small squares of cardboard with an engine casing glued on the center. CLICK HERE
The small red stands are the bases of the plastic champagne glasses from the Dollar Tree store. CLICK HERE
I took this one out of the cabinet to get a better picture -
The Dr. Zooch Space Shuttle.
This one isn't completely finished. The nose cap needs paint, a launch lug is missing and the elevon elastic hasn't been tied on.
I know - it's not a rocket unless it has flown!
Some of these (like the Zooch Soyuz and a second Zooch Saturn V) have too much build time in them. I don't want to see flight damage!
Wednesday, March 25, 2015
Remodeling in my townhouse gave me a music equipment closet and a dedicated rocket room!
I've had the busiest show season ever! That'll be winding down after April 10. Then, I'll be working at Disney World.
Rocketry builds and kit development have been on hold. I just haven't had the time. As I write this, they are painting my house. I can't go into the patio to paint the Saturn IV or Pershing.
So if I miss a day (or two) of blog posting, I'm still here! I'm just doing something else that actually pays the bills.
Tuesday, March 24, 2015
With a dry fit of the assemblies you can finally see how the model will look.
The antenna panels were rounded before gluing onto the body tube.
Two panels go on opposite sides centered between two fins.
The quarter round antennas were glued about 1/4" from the sides of the panel plates.
The model got a shot of gloss white on all the detail pieces.
A dowel painting wand was inserted in the engine mount.
Around that, a rolled up paper towel was pressed in the recess.
This keeps the paint out of the rear of the model.
Igniters are pressed into the engine nozzle with a plug. The igniter wires are then bent straight down, directly underneath the nozzle.
Clips are attached.
The rocket is launched and the clips below are in a direct line and hit with flame and smoke!
TIP: Bend the wires to the side and connect your clips outside the engine casing, not in line with the nozzle flame. Your clips will stay clean and could last years longer!
In the 1970s we were told to connect the clips close to the nozzle as possible. Nichrome wire was the same diameter down it's entire length. A shorter length of wire would heat faster.
Now igniters have a very thin bridge wire at the bent tip. That thin wire tip offers less resistance and heats much faster than the plain old style Nichrome.
Monday, March 23, 2015
I've been asked to post a picture of the active fleet before.
Here's most of them after I finally got all the short rods in the shelf boards.
The upper shelf are models approaching two feet tall.
The middle shelf are odd-balls, favorites and contest design models.
The bottom shelf are the shorter models, 18mm and 13mm birds.
Here in total, about 75 models.
With this arrangement I can see and easily pick out models I might want to fly. Shorter models are to the front, taller models are in the back rows.
I still have MMX on a different shelf, larger models on yet another shelf and my favorite shelf queen rockets in a cabinet.
The 55/60 card stock adapter was fitted.
Instead of two 55/60 rings I used three for some more support.
The highest ring is right under the edge of the shroud.
I didn't do a nested "Super Shroud" on this model. The shroud was too narrow at only about 5/8" high.
White glue was run around the lower lip of the shroud.
The rings were slid into the lower BT-60 until the shroud edge butted up against the tube.
While the glue was still wet and pliable, I rolled a clean dowel over the edge molding it to the tube edge.
Shrouds typically will have an area that might be above the tube edge.
Roll over the high spots and they should better fit and match the diameter of the tube.
I did a little advance planning for the paint pattern.
TIP: The shroud seam was set and centered above one of the inter stage rockets.
The black paint will start at the joint edge and make the mask easier.
The black paint edge will also hide the raised step of the joint.