Tuesday, May 31, 2016
If you haven't scored the canopy, do so before trying to glue it together.
A slip of paper was slid under the glue tab to keep the glue stick off the printed right side.
Long tweezers were used to hod the tab down while the glue set up.
It's easier to glue on the interior launch lug fin supports with a guideline. Hold a wing or rudder up to a bright light and make some pencil marks at the center of the black line.
Glue a 1 3/4" launch lug on the line centered between the two side edges of the wing.
Fold over the fin and glue the other side to the lug.
Here's the finished wing.
The bottom tabs are folded out to be glued to the body shroud.
Monday, May 30, 2016
I held the shroud up to a bright light and could the former was being bent and pushed in at an angle.
The corrugated cardboard was a good "soft" bulkhead but was distorting under the pressure against the shroud wall. I wanted it to be straight. It'll need to be stiffened up slightly.
I cut some scrap cereal box cardboard. the printed side was roughed up with some 220 grit sandpaper so the glue would hold better.
After more test fittings this is where the former ended up down the engine tube.
Fillets were applied to both sides.
Frank Claunch sent me an email -
A little X-24 tidbit.
A little X-24 tidbit.
I actually got that one in the mail from Enerjet/Centuri way back when.
I wonder if anybody other than Larry Brown (in the picture) would "sacrifice" a Saturn V just to deploy an X-24 off the top of it? I wouldn't!
To see the Enerjet News, CLICK HERE
Sunday, May 29, 2016
Fitting the bulkhead former is the hardest part of the build. You are tempted to push the former in so the shroud is touching all sides of the former.
If you push too hard the sharp former sides will push out and distort the outside of the shroud. You'll see the interior bulkhead shape from the outside of the finished model! The glue softens the card stock and makes the raised ridge even worse.
Don't push the former in too hard in the first dry fits!
The first picture shows the rounded sides making contact against the shroud wall. These can be trimmed back for a softer fit.
Round off the corners and try the fit again. Repeat!
In the end, here's the best fit I could get.
Notice at the top and sides that the shroud wall is slightly raised, not touching all the way around the former bulkhead. I didn't want to push too hard and distort the card stock.
I did a search to see how I got this "rating" and found this:
For only $2.99/month, $19.95/year or $100/Lifetime you gain the following benefits to your Membership here at RocketryForum . . .
The "Lifetime" fee of $100 only runs for 55 years. Not a bargain in my book. Male lifespan in the US is now 75.2 years. I never paid for anything extra.
It might have something to do with how many posts you've made. On TRF I've made 1.914 posts.
There are other members with over 10,000 posts. Either that or it might have something to do with your age, I did hit 60 this month!
I'm not complaining, the title of Lifetime Member demands respect.
Yeah, like I'll get that by launching flying pigs.
Saturday, May 28, 2016
I remember this step seemed wrong back in 1973! Why can't I remember the important things?
I would think the tape strip has to go on the other side of the shroud, on the glue tab side. If applied as shown here it just gets in the way of gluing in the next step.
After the shroud edges are lined up, the tape is burnished and holds the shroud edges in line for the gluing.
Use a glue stick! White glue is too thin and runny. With a glue stick you can use less and it holds quicker. It also dries clear.
Here I'm burnishing the glue tab from the inside with a Sharpie pen barrel.
Under the shroud is corrugated cardboard, a softer surface so I don't mar or dent the card stock.
The card stock shroud is a simple cone now.
That'll all change when the former bulkhead is pressed in place.
Friday, May 27, 2016
The instructions show pre-curling the shroud under a ruler or over a table edge. I've never got good results this way. I'll usually end up with a crease line in the shroud.
I could form this one over the heel of my left hand.
Even a shroud this large could be formed by pressing and rolling a dowel over the cardstock.
You have to trust me on this, try it and you'll never pull a shroud over a table top again.
You know you've done enough when the cone will stand up on it's own without being glued shut.
No creases or dents, just a smooth outside surface.