Screw Eye Threads TIP

A recent forum post showed a builder pre-drilling a balsa shoulder for a screw eye attachment.
The eye was recessed farther into the shoulder with epoxy on the sides.
He wrote about not wanting the screw eye to pull out from a strong ejection.

While that is a concern I've rarely had a screw eye pull out.
I just follow the instructions:
1. Screw it in and unscrew it.
2. Squirt some glue in the hole then screw it back in again - DONE!


Some recent kits have included screw eyes that should be replaced.

On the left is a screw eye from the Estes Fusion X-25 kit. The threads are very small and not very deep.

I'll probably replace it with a screw eye like the one on the right with wider and deeper threads.
The replacement screw eye is almost the same length and width, just a stronger thread attachment.
You can get a box of screw eyes cheaply at a home improvement store.

The strongest attachment is on the Balsa Machining Service (BMS) nose cones.
(Illustration is from the BMS School Rocket instructions HERE)
A larger hole is already drilled in the back of the nose cone.
The screw eye is turned into a small pilot in a ridged, hardwood dowel.
The dowel is glued into the shoulder hole.
This screw eye attachment isn't going anywhere!

Another hardwood reinforcement, you could do this HERE

Centuri HORNET on EBAY

I have a Centuri (Estes) 

HORNET

up for bids on EBAY HERE

This model was built from the Estes reissue Classic kit.
It sports the Centuri logo and is made for 24mm engines just like the original.
An 18mm engine mount is also included.

Make a bid and help the blog stay online!

Estes SR-71 Blackbird Build Part 22, Decals

Here's the Blackbird with all the decals in place.

I've yet to glue the inlet cones, tail cones and engine mount in place.

After the decals are dry, they'll get a coat of Future.

After that the entire model gets a dull coat spray.

Normally I don't use dullcoat. Fingerprints tend to show up on flat finishes.

This model is black overall and fingerprints won't show as much on the black finish.

I have to wonder if this red striping on black was used by George Barris when he designed the Batmobile for TV. The SR-71 was first flown in 1964, the Batmobile is from the same time frame.

Estes SR-71 Blackbird Build Part 21, Decals

Thanks again to dlazarus6660 on YORF for sending me some water slide decals for the Blackbird.
The older versions of the kit had the water slide decals. More recent kits have the stickers.

I used a marked piece of card stock for placement of the vents on both the opposite engine tubes.




I don't know why the "967" wasn't already on the vent decal.
It was printed as a separate piece and had to be centered between the vents.





There was quite a difference in the fonts chosen for the original water slide decals and the stickers.
Here's the same USAF, the top BOLD one is the sticker.
The lower USAF is the water slide decal

New 2014 Estes Catalog

Bob (Initiator001 on YORF) posted this HERE:

The new 2014 Catalog is available from Estes mail order for $2.99.
The new Dark Silver model is featured on the cover.

There is a few ways to get it "Free", explained on the Estes website:
http://www.estesrockets.com/new/2014-catalog-2927-14

I'll wait until it's available free online.

Estes SR-71 Blackbird Build Part 20, Tips from the Forums

There have been a few suggestions about clustering this one.
My concern is how far the outside engines are from the center line. If you don't get all three engines to light at the same time it might pinwheel. I've seen that happen once.

Here's some TRF quotes:
Verna: 
"Whatever you do lengthen the shock cord by 50%."
Daddyisabar: 
"Reinforce the top edge of the shroud with super thin CA or finishing epoxy."
"Also reinforce your top motor hook attachment point with a little CA."

And from YORF:
dlazarus6660: 
"When it comes time for the decals, the instructions show the stars and bars on the left top wing, right bottom wing and right upper fuse upside down. That's wrong! The stars should always point forward and up."
"I can't tell, did you recess the engine cones? If you do, be sure to use CA on the exposed tube."
"Are you going to 'fill' between the BT and the shrouds by the motor mount? I keep looking at mine and I don't know if I want to go through the hassle."

I won't be filling in the open areas at the back end of the shroud. I probably should have but after all the forming, gluing and filling hassles I just wanted to get it finished!
All great suggestions and I'll be adding these upgrades.

And a tip from me:
When sliding the nose cone in and out of the model, 
Always make sure the canopy top side is up!
If you were to set in in upside-down it can deform the upper and lower shroud shapes.
Remember, the top and bottom shrouds are shaped differently and must match the top and bottom curves of the nose cone.

Harmonica In Space!

I play a small, Hohner Little Lady Harmonica in my musical act.
Hohner sells them as the "Smallest playable harmonica in the world (or out of it)."

What I thought would be a simple added instrumental is now one of the more popular features in the show. I play a quick rendition of 12th Street Rag.
These small things blow out of tune after a while and I ordered three more.
As a kid I could buy the small German made harmonica for $1.00 each. Now they retail for over $12.00.
I was surprised by all the fancy new packaging, probably why the harmonica sells for $12.00 now.
The hang tag box was beautifully printed with some "Space Trivia" on the back.

This picture is from the back of the hang tag box:

In the Harmonica History section of the enclosed catalog:
"The first instrument to be played in outer space was the Hohner Little Lady Harmonica.
Astronaut Wally Schirra smuggled one aboard his Gemini VI spacecraft and played "Jingle Bells" to the delight of the entire world who saw the virtuoso performance on TV via satellite. (1965)
The harmonica today resides in the Smithsonian Institution."
Wally Schirra's YouTube recording is HERE