Estes Star Seeker (Tri-Pack) Kit #0866, Background

The Star Seeker was part of the new Mini Tri-Pack. Introduced in the 1983 catalog CLICK HERE, it was available until 1990.  Three BT-5 "T" motor models in one kit bag! 

The second model was a two-stager called the Sting Ray. Descriptive copy says it could reach 2,500 feet!

The third design was a multi fin rocket named S.C.R.A.M. Years later, Estes brought back a variation of the S.C.R.A.M. fin design in a larger model called the Laser Lance.

For me, the Star Seeker was the most interesting of the three.

All three models use "nose-blow" recovery. Good luck spotting the two stage Sting Ray during recovery.

I'll try to add some sort of recovery streamer for visibility on descent.

I'll also be following up with a BT-50 based upscale of the Star Seeker after the original size build.

The BT-5 build starts tomorrow.

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Okay, shameless slug over! A NEW build starts tomorrow . . . 

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Finished

The upper section with nine basswood strips.

The smaller vanes - 

The large vanes below that.

I took this picture outside to try and show the reflection of the metallic paint. Like I mentioned earlier, probably not worth the extra effort.

Nine more vanes around the engine mount tube.

This is an impressive model and a challenging build.

I've never encountered built up fins like this.

 

A great design from Jon Boren.

 

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 37, Ends & Edges, Finishing Up

The shock cord is tied with a square knot to the loop on the nose cone base.

TIP: Push the loose tail of the shock cord into the open slot in the nose cone base. This keeps the tail from getting stuck between the shoulder and the body tube.

TIP: Tie on the parachute a few inches AWAY from the nose cone. The nose cone won't swing in and out of the shroud lines and get tangled. 

Near one of the joints I had some rough paint.

TIP: Sometimes (and I stress "sometimes") you can use some clear scrap left over from the decal sheet to gloss and smooth out the area.

Cut to size, soak and apply the clear piece over the rough area.  

I don't usually need to concentrate on rounded leading edges of the fins when spraying. On these squared off edges I didn't get a full black coverage.

TIP: Sometimes you can black in the areas with a marker. This only works with a black marker. You won't be able to match the ink shade of other colors.

Some paint did get on the engine hook.

Use the backside (not the sharp edge) of your hobby knife to scrape off the paint.

You can use the Sharpie to black the edge of the motor mount tube where needed.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 36, Dot Decals

A three dot decal is placed on the upper fin leg.

The low dot on the right was placed 2" from the edge of the fin.

I've learned with Estes decals - they are thin! On the plus side, when dry they really hug the surface. 

TIP: Where decals are on both sides of a fin, set one side and let dry. Come back, then set the other side. Too many times my fingers have lifted and moved that (not fully dried) decal on the other side and lifted it.

I aligned the other dot strip by sighting down the leading edge of the fin.

The lower fins get a single dot on both sides.

To make sure of the position, I made a cardstock template and punched a hole to line up0 and position the decal.

Here's the template flipped to align the dot decal on the other side of the fin.

Look close and you can see the dot in the punched hole.

I don't normally add the Estes logo. You are supplied with two Estes logos, one white and one orange on a white background.

I went with the white decal, it wasn't so bright.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 35, Decals

With the vanes in the way, this is a tough decal to position.

Leave as much of it on the backing paper as you can when rolling it around the tube.

There are two different fin decals.

In the picture, the one on the top is for the upper fin half,

on the bottom is the lower fin decal.

The tip on one lower fin decal stuck and stayed on the backing paper.

It's not too noticeable.

Here's how the lower fin half decals should look.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 34, Decals

Start with some smaller decals first. I found the soak times to be 38 seconds until the decal would slide off the backing.

These wrap arounds have nine peaks. The decal start and finish points were in line with the launch lugs. The decal overlap won't be seen in the launcher photos.

I did start the first orange point in line with the basswood strips but they didn't align all the way around.

Here's the upper section.

Notice the white bands are towards the centers. This is consistent throughout the wrap decal placements.

There are two rows of dots to wrap around the top of the lower tube, just below the adapter.

I wish the two rows were connected, without the dashed orange cut lines between them.

Notice how close you have to cut to the decals, just inside the dashed orange line. It would have been easier to see the white ink if the decals were printed on blue backing paper.

The nine white dots wraps should line up with the nine cardstock vanes. 

I placed a wrap of masking tape and made a pencil line using the aluminum angle. The first dot on the strip was centered over the line.