Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 25 Bottom Plate

From Step 9B Subsection A - Amendment WB1074:

The S-1 bottom plate is cut out and fitted.

I cut out the "Engine Cut-Out" hole and test fitted it on a scrap piece of BT-20

before gluing it on the bottom centering ring. It's easier getting a good fit off the model before committing it with glue.

After lining up with the fins, you can cut the engine hook notch. I used the rotary hole punch.

The instructions tell you: "It is best to align the four black dots with the center of each stub fin."

I followed the directions. But-

I found out afterwards this does not give you clearance for movement of the engine hook when the nozzles are glued in place.

Here's a picture of my finished Zooch Saturn 1B (on the right) next to the new Saturn 1 SA-5.

Like I did on the Saturn 1B, you should probably center the engine hook notch between two nozzles, where the row of rectangles are.

I have the necessary engine hook clearance on my older Saturn 1B.

I'll print off another bottom plate, cut the engine hook location where it should be and glue it right on top of the bottom plate already in place. The new bottom plate will be rotated slightly like it was on the Saturn 1B.

TIP: This is a good example of why you should scan patterns sheets before starting any kit. Sometimes you have to go back and do a step a second time.

Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 24 Fin Masking

To mask the fins, set them in place on the lower tube with the extended fin tip on the fairing.

Using the color separation lines printed on the lower wrap, extend your tape straight across the fin.

Here I'm laying Scotch tape down. It's my preferred masking material.

The angle of the shot makes it look as if the tape is set at an angle, but it is really set straight off the lower wrap.

The picture shows the mask for the black to be sprayed above the tape, matching the black and white on the printed wrap.

Here are the fins ready for the black spray.

I use Scotch tape for the color separation line and masking tape to cover and protect the rest.

Dr. Zooch Saturn 1SA-5 Build Part 23 Fairings

Earlier I mentioned that I cut the new fairings a little wide.

The widest part of the bottom overhung the body tube by a slight bit.

After all had dried, I had to go back and carefully trim off the overhang with a sharp razor blade.

After trimming off the excess, I didn't have as good a color separation as I would have liked. I'll have to touch it up from both the black and white sides.

Maybe I should have just went with the fairings that were supplied?

Building tip:

Be sure your hands are clean when handling the rolled body tube tanks. They pick up dirt very easily. When gluing on the fins, you'll be holding the main assembly quite a bit.

Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 22 Fairings

Before any glue was used, I slightly rounded the fairing by pressing it into the heel of my hand with a dowel.

Glue was applied to the back of the fairing piece, just around the edges.

Long tweezers were used to set it in place.

To be sure the angle was right, the extra fin was set onto the fairing pressing it into place.

As the glue was drying, a clean sharpened dowel was rolled over the fairing piece to set the curvature on the tanks and lower body tube.

If you look closely, you'll notice the lower edge of the fairing turned out to be a little too wide at the middle where it meets the lower body tube. It overhangs a little bit.

Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 21 Fairings

Here's a tank fairing cut from the pattern sheet in the kit.

While these are certainly usable as is, I wanted to get a better fit and a longer wrap around and to the center of the tanks.

Please note: This is not a complaint about the kit, every build will be just a little different. All shrouds and wraps in the Zooch models are usually a perfect fit.

On the left is the fairing shape from the kit.

After a few tries, I came up with the shape on the right.

Note the bottom curve on the new piece on the right. This curve was too deep, it led to problems after gluing in place. See the next two posts.

It's best to set the fairings in place as the directions say, using the tip of the fin to get the right angle.

I cut out an extra fin for the fairing placement.

Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 20 Nozzles

After the glue has dried on the start of the Popielium band you can begin wrapping the line.

Using a toothpick, white glue is applied down the line just 3/4" at a time.
When the glue starts to set up, place the glued part of the line down.

Use your toothpick tip to straighten it out as you go.



When that first 3/4" of line is tacked down, glue a little more and continue the wrap.
The line should go straight around the nozzle, parallel to the nozzle edge.






When you finish the first complete wrap, angle the line up a little at the seam and continue on a second wrap.





Once again, as you go, straighten out the line with the tip of the toothpick while the glue is still workable. These bands should be evenly spaced and straight. The only place where the line is angled is back at the paper nozzle seam, where you are setting the line for the next parallel wrap. This angled section at the seam will not be easily seen on the finished model.

Dr. Zooch Saturn 1 SA-5 Build Part 19 Nozzle Bands

After trimming off the overhang, I did have to sand the bottom of the nozzle bands flat and smooth.

To make a smoother edge of the nozzle, I hardened it up a bit.

I set a small drop of thin CA on my cardboard cutting board. I didn't want the drop to be "tall" but more like a low puddle.

The edge of the nozzle bell was turned in the CA hardening up the edge and giving me a better surface for sanding with 400 grit on a block.

4 1/4" long pieces of "Popeilium" shroud line material are wrapped around the upper side of the inner band for the nozzle "hat bands". The 4 1/4" length is just the right length for four wraps of the line.

To start the line, place a small drop of glue at the shroud seam. Let the glue dry for a bit, then press the line into the glue.

I found it easier to start the line with the nozzle sitting on it's side.

TRIVIA: When I was starting the Odd'l Rocket kits, I was looking for a source of "old style" cotton shroud lines. Wes (Dr. Zooch) always mentions his shroud lines are made of "Popeilium". I did web searches for the elusive Popeilium material only to find he named it after Ron Popeil, the inventor of the Veg-A-Matic and spray on hair. I should have known it was a goof.