FSI Javelin Nose Cone Fit?

On the Facebook group - Rocketry Yard Sale, Buy, Sell & Trade,

Garth I. is selling an interesting OOP FSI Javelin kit.

Check out the shoulder lip overhang on the adapter and nose cone.

I wonder how many buyers left that lip on their finished models. Unless you have a lathe, it might be difficult to keep the nose cone round.

I've built a few FSI kits in the 1970s. The fit and finish of the kit parts were good, especially the centering rings. This might be a later kit release.

Misleading MRC Cover Art

DWolman is selling some of his kit collection on YORF.

This OOP MRC Sidewinder has some misleading cover art.

Here's what is shown in the box cover art. It looks like it might need some extra nose weight to be stable.

The perspective is way off! Even the nose cone has a a bit of a point.

 

Here's what you really get.

Shown on the side of the box -  A stand-off scale rocket.

To see the MRC (not MPC) instructions: CLICK HERE

Dean Henson's Centuri Bulldog

From the Model Rocket Fanatics page, Dean Henson Posted:

"I’ve just completed my scratch-built Bulldog AGM 83 A and I thought some may enjoy seeing it. It’s a clone of an old Centuri kit that you don’t see very often. I did take liberties in creating an “eye” for the missile, so not wholly “as-in-reality,” but pretty cool in my estimation, nonetheless. I hope that you’ll still find it interesting!"

Here's the first listing from the 1982 Centuri catalog:

CLICK HERE

By the early 1980s, newer Centuri designs were using Estes parts. This rocket had a diameter of 2.217" or a BT-70. Quite a large model to use 18mm motors.

Check out the lens set into the nose cone! That wasn't part of the original kit - 

The Centuri kit nose cone had an extension card stock shroud like some of the Launch Pad kits.

To see the Centuri kit instructions, go to Jim Zs:

CLICK HERE

OOP Semroc Kit Instructions List

On the Rocketry Forum, 

Tigerhawk posted a list of Model Rocketry part vendors.

I knew most of them, but one did catch my eye.

The old Semroc website no longer exists, but a link to OOP Semroc kit instructions is still available.

https://www.erockets.biz/past-semroc-kit-instructions/

It's a great source for those wanting to build a few  classics.

Older Quest Tiger Tail Igniters

These are the original Quest igniters introduced in their 1992 catalog.

Somewhere along the way I got them in some older Quest engine packages.

Here's the parts for the igniter assembly. 

You first removed the larger black discs for the self adhesive paper. Peel off the backing and fold it around the copper "stick" igniter. The copper strip should be centered under the open holes, exposed for attaching the micro clips. 

Underneath are the "Tiger Tac" plugs. These were made of hard plastic, some sort of small construction rivet.

Here's two assembled igniters.

You can see how the copper strip is open for the micro clips.

One clip goes over the strip through the top hole, the second clip goes over the lower hole.

The yellow folded paper would separate and insulate the clips preventing a short.

"Action Glider?"

On the Facebook Estes Model Rocket page, James Polles posted this:

"A paper catapult glider from Estes."




I guess calling it a "Catapult" sounds more dramatic than a "Rubber Band and Stick".

Merry Christmas - Y'all!

Reprinted from 2010 -

OH, ROCKET - TREE
Space Modeling Parody of Oh, Christmas Tree
Oh, Rocket-tree Oh, Rocket-tree,
How lovely is thy smoke trail,
Oh, Rocket-tree Oh, Rocket-tree,
Fly Vertically without fail.

With C6-3, we’ll rubberneck,
At peak of flight, a rear eject,

Oh, Rocket-tree Oh, Rocket-tree
It landed close - oh whoo-o-pee.

"But I heard him exclaim, as he drove out of sight,
"Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good flight."

"Say, little Bobby, Did you get a Wedgie for Christmas?"

The Wedgie is an OOP Odd'l Rockets kit that had available skins to fit the triangle sides.

Centuri Argus #KB-9, Build, Background Research

The Centuri Argus was an A.T.R.F. (Almost Ready To Fly) model that used the molded one-piece plastic fin can from the Enerjet 1340 model. This fin unit was revolutionary. Strong and flexible with a launch lug molded between two of the four fins. The Argus was produced from 1973 - 1981.
The Centuri Phoenix Bird and later Estes kits used this fin can. Two that come to mind are the Maniac and Eliminator.
To see this Centuri catalog page, CLICK HERE





Jay Goemmer ("Centuri Guy" on the forums) has put together a great listing of Centuri kit parts. This includes nose cones and body tube lengths for almost all the Centuri line. To see the list: CLICK HERE
This gave me the correct sizes and lengths of the older Centuri ST tubing, nose cone and adapters for the Argus.

The above example shows just a small part of the 14 pages of Centuri kit information. A valuable source for clone builds. Thanks Jay!
Nose cones and body tubes were ordered from erockets.biz, currently the only source for Centuri diameter tubes.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 5, Nose Cone Fit, Tube End Strengthening

The plastic nose cone base was glued in place with my standby glue - Beacon Fabri-tac. The fabric glue contains acetone and does a good job with some plastic to plastic and plastic to Kraft tube (body tubes) joints.
DON'T use Fabri-tac glue to assemble a Mercury Redstone or Saturn V tower. Use a bottled liquid glue, the ones that have a brush in the bottle cap.

TIP: Before wiping some CA glue on the inside of the body tube end, roll down the cutting burr with a smooth round object, like a plastic pen barrel. Notice my middle finger outside the tube edge to support the tube while it is under pressure.
 It's easier to roll, compress and flatten the burr before applying some CA glue. The burr would be hardened with CA glue.
Then - Wipe the CA glue on with a Q-tip and let dry. The sand smooth with some 400 grit sandpaper.

TIP: Plan ahead - you don't want CA glue in an area that will get wood glue later. The CA glue will seal the tube and the wood glue won't be absorbed.




The nose cone shoulder was too tight in the BT-58 tube.
it took quite a bit of sanding with 220 grit followed by 400 grit to polish it out.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 3, Engine Mount Prep

On the left is the motor mount tube supplied in the kit. The seam gaps were wide and the tube felt weak.
I cut a new BT-5 tube to substitute.






The Mylar engine hook hold down ring had some cut burrs on both sides. With a new knife blade I was able to shave it smooth.






The fins were laser cut but the centering rings were old-school die cut.
The fit on the BT-5 motor mount tube was very tight. A few passes with some 220 grit sand paper and I had a good friction fit.

I've learned from past experience - 
Be sure the engine hook is straight before gluing on the entering rings.
The picture on the left shows a crooked engine hook.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Background

Here's another one of the X Prize kits, the Gauchito. This entry was from Pablo de Leon & Associates from Argentina. Gauchito means "Little Cowboy."

The package face card says "Little Joe II styling." It's actually got Mercury Little Joe I fins, the top end looks like the Apollo Little Joe II.

I remember this triangular bubble pack being sold at WalMart.

Flights to 300 feet! Mini engine powered with parachute recovery.

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 9, Stickers! I Hate Stickers!

I did use some of the stickers. I thought using the blue bands would be easier than another mask.
These blue stripes are translucent but look okay over the white paint.

On the low end of the fin can there are four blue strip pieces. These are stair stepped to fit around the round engines.

Look to the root edges of the fins. The fine point line down the root edge overlaps just a little onto the main body. I could have got a cleaner root edge mask using just the Scotch tape. It was worth a try!

The roll pattern adapter sticker didn't totally cover the length of the adapter. There is white showing through on the top and bottom.

The fit wasn't perfect, there was some raised areas along the top. I tried slicing through the bubble and that closed it up. After it sat for an hour the cut area rose again! A fix will be made later . . .

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 8, Fin Masking

Here's a rare look through my patio door.

Scotch tape was set on the glass. To see the tape on the model, a wide point Sharpie line was drawn through the middle of the tape. The tape was cut down the middle of the line giving me two sharp, clean edges.
Don't press hard on the glass, you don't want to scratch it.

On the left is the mask for the lower fins on the plastic fin can. The Scotch tape was set on the fine line drawn earlier. Once again, this pen line idea was an experiment and didn't get good results. Masking tape was set down outside of that.

On the right are the upper fins on the BT-55 tube.

The leading edge of the upper fins were rounded. Look at the above right picture and you can see small pieces of Scotch tape placed around the leading edge.

On the left you can see small "corners" around the leading edge where the tape pieces were placed.
On the right the raised areas were pushed back with the flat side of my knife. I usually do this when the paint is still a bit sticky.

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 7, Miscellaneous Stuff

I tried to slide in a finishing wand dowel into the engine mount. That tight fit of the BT-20 tube in the plastic centering rings made for a very tight fit. I had to sand down the end of the engine casing to get it inside.





After spraying the eight larger nozzles some touch up was needed. Instead of brushing I used a Sharpie to darken up any areas not covered with black paint.








The upper small fins were glued onto the BT-55 tube.
Fillets of Titebond M&TG followed.






The fins on the lower plastic fin can are painted black. I thought it would be tough to get a good mask with the raised half rounds so close.
To get a good line I ran a fine point Sharpie down the root edge. I wouldn't recommend doing this, I was trying something new. More upcoming . . .

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 6, Primer and Paint

With the launch lug glued on it got fillets of Titebond M&TG.

The BT-60 lower tube, adapter and upper BT-55 tube were friction fitted with masking tape, no glue yet.
In this picture the Duplicolor Filler/Primer was shot and is still wet. I spray one coat, fairly thick.

The molding seam on the adapter was sanded. The picture shows a bit of the filler/primer left in the seam.

The bases of the nozzles were sanded flat to remove the molding hold tabs.

The gluing position tabs on the bottom will remain white, they were slipped into cut slots in the cardboard.

The Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler didn't stay in the wood grain. You can see the grain pores after the filler/primer was shot.

I'll rub in some CWf with a fingertip and sand smooth. I don't think I'll need another shot of filler/primer, maybe some light sanding between color coats.

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 4, Fin Can

The plastic fin can is made up of four side pieces.
The four fins are in halves, split right down the middle. (See the next picture.)
When all four sides are glued up it makes a very strong fin can.

Look close to the sides of the centering ring to see the ridges in the fin can piece. The centering rings glue into the ridges.

I applied Beacon Fabri-Tac glue inside the ridges and pressed the centering rings in.

When gluing the second, third and fourth sides on, wrapped rubber bands applied pressure to hold everything tight.

Notice the open halves of the fin.

The fin halves were gently opened and some liquid plastic cement brushed in.
Liquid cement dries fast so clothes pin clamps were quickly put on.






Three of the four sides were butted tight together. When the fourth side was pressed in, there was a slight gap. This will be filled before painting.

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 2, Engine Mount

With a short BT-20 tube it doesn't make much sense to push and engine block into a bead of glue from the bottom. Then the engine hook is set into the cut slit. The instructions at the right show how they recommend it being done.

TIP: Slide the engine block in (dry) from the top and against the upper bend of the engine hook. Apply a bead of glue around the top joint of the engine block. You can use an engine casing to help keep the block set straight. After the glue sets up the casing is removed.

Take a look at the centering rings - plastic!

Below the centering rings is the display nozzle plate and nozzles.

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Part 1, Parts

This model had a lot of plastic in the fin can and nose cone.
The rest of the model is standard model rocket parts.
The four small upper fins are laser cut from 3/32' hard balsa.
One pat of clay for nose weight.
Stickers. I hate stickers.

Estes Vanguard Eagle, Kit # 2193, Background

Estes produced a series of models based on the XPrize rocket entries in 2005.

From the XPrize website:
"Since 1994, XPRIZE has designed and launched seventeen prizes in the domain areas of Space, Oceans, Learning, Health, Energy, Environment, Transportation, Safety and Robotics. 

Our first XPRIZE, the $10 million Ansari XPRIZE for private spaceflight, spurred an industry and created exponential breakthroughs.
Each of these prizes has created an industry-changing technology that brings us closer to a better, safer, more sustainable world."

I still see Reubicons and an occasional Lucky Seven at club launches. I've never seen the Estes Vanguard Eagle kit before this build. To find the original kit listing go to page 36 of the 2005 Estes catalog: CLICK HERE
Dr. Zooch did bring out a limited run of a Vanguard Eagle kit. I built one for the Vanguard Eagle development team.

Here's some face card information.
Does anybody cut these out for collecting or reference?








I don't remember where I picked this one up. The original owner bought it from Hobby Lobby. I may have got it from an Ebay lot purchase.