Estes Phoenix Bird Build Part 18 Main Body Wrap

This is the tough one!
I like to work from the center out instead of edge to edge.

A light pencil line was extended up from a fins root edge.
The center of the wrap was marked with a pencil at the top and bottom.

The wrap was removed from the backing paper but half of the backing paper was stuck back on the lower half of the wrap. The top half will be wrapped first.
Line up the center marks on the wrap with the center marks on the tube and press the center line of the wrap down the tube.

Work slowly around the top half smoothing out the decal as you go.

After the first half is applied, remove the backing from the other side.

Here you can see the overlap where the edges met on the other side.
The problem is, the overlap will cover up the red point!
I had to go back and carefully trim the edge so the underlying red would fully show. The backing was left on while the edge was trimmed with a sharp razor blade and straightedge.


 It seems to make no difference how careful you are, if the printing and die-cutting aren't perfectly square, it won't lay down correctly!

The red arrow points are in near perfect alignment with the fins but the ends of the wrap didn't line up.

I've wrapped a square of cardstock around the body tube.
It was slid down over the mismatched red edge. The edge of the cardstock was used for a guideline for the razor blade cut.

After lifting off the the cut edge, here's a better match of the red color separation.
This I could live with!

TIP: Save the leftover edges from the chrome trim sheet.

There's quite a bit of chrome trim left, especially the long strips along the sides.

You can use the chrome for body bands similar to the trim on the Semroc Nomad.

The Estes logo will go on my rnage box. It's too big to go on the model.

Estes Phoenix Bird Build Part 17 Fin Decor

Step 10 of the finishing instructions are vague about where to mask for the black fin area below the large chrome body wrap.

I masked higher up than needed, I figured the bottom edge of the wrap would give a better color separation than trying to match the wrap to a masked line.

Here I'm sanding down the paint ridge so you won't see it through the wrap.  

A clear coat of American acrylic followed after sanding the black down with 1500 grit sandpaper.

Before the clear coat was applied, any white dust was brushed off.

If you spray over dust with the clear, it'll easily be seen on the black finish.

Instead of just setting down the sticker, try a dry placement first to be sure of the correct position on the fin. 

The circular bird sticker was cut into a square shape (outside the die cut circle) with the backing paper still on.

It was set in the center of the fin so I could check the alignment.

The tip of the upper wing would be the high point of the placement.

TIP: Don't touch the back of the stickers if you can help it!

It's easier to get the placement right when the sticker is held on the tip of your knife. You can make small adjustments before setting it on the fin.

Again -

You get one chance to get the sticker placement right! Once they are down it's impossible to lift them without pulling up some paint.

Cruising . . .

Hi gang,
I'm in Juneau, Alaska at the public library trying to take advantage of the free internet.
I'm lucky to get one post done before I lose signal!

I'll be able to better answer some questions and comments from another (better) location with a stronger signal.
Maybe in another port in a day or so.
Thanks for you patience!

Chris

Estes Phoenix Bird Build Part 16 Upper Name Bands

Draw a light pencil line down both sides of the body tube using the aluminum angle.

Find and mark the center point of these lines.
You'll be setting the edge of the "Phoenix Bird" name decal down this line.

The center tick of the line and center tick marked on the name sticker should both be lined up also.


For extra assurance, I ran a strip of masking tape below the pencil line .

Before laying down the decal, be sure the underlying surface is clean!!!!
As careful as I was, there was still a speck or two of dust that show through the decal.

Just the edge of the decal was set on the masking tape edge. Make sure the center ticks are lined up.

The decal on the other side is easy to position upside down! Double check the direction before applying.

I went ahead and marked the masking tape so I knew which side was forward and up.

Estes Phoenix Bird Build Part 15 Upper Name Bands

I really don't care for the new wood that Estes is using for their kit fins.

I still suspect it might be tung wood instead of the traditional balsa.

It's harder than balsa and the CWF tends to pop out of the grain pores.

When paint is applied you might see raised lines where the filler is.

It's hard to see in the picture, but the wood pores are evident and will need more spraying and sanding.

TIP: Before doing the main body wrap, try applying the smaller pieces first.

Believe me, you'll be glad to have the practice before applying the big chrome wrap.

this second picture shows the upper body tube payload section.

It was set on a fin marking guide to mark the tube in halves.

Extend the light pencil line all the way down the tube using your aluminum angle.

Find and mark the center of the pencil line at 3 1/2" from one end.  

You only have ONE CHANCE to get the positioning of the chrome trim pieces!

Mark the center point of the name band at 3" from the side.

A light pencil line will do and will rub off later. Just don't press the pencil down too hard or crease the chrome!

Centurion Re-Build AGAIN! Part 4

I didn't want to remove any more of the red electrical tape trim than I had to.

Masking tape was set down over the red trim, but the edges weren't burnished down. This way some of the new white spray paint could creep under the edge of the tape (without painting over the red) and wouldn't leave a hard paint ridge.

Any rough under spray would be knocked down using rubbing compound then polishing compound.

Here's the same fin before on the left and refinished on the right.

The red trim strip was cut from a roll of electrical tape and applied over the new white paint.

Ready to fly, and ding up again!

Estes Phoenix Bird Build Part 14 Lugs and Primer

The lugs got Titebond Molding and Trim Glue fillets.
I try to "dress" the ends of the lug fillets by forming the tops ends with a toothpick.
Instead of having a blob of glue at the ends, the excess is removed with the toothpick. The ends of the fillet taper into the underside end of the lug.

At the end of a dowel an engine casing is friction fitted.

This goes into the engine mount for a painting wand.

Strips of paper towel are pushed into the rear recess to keep the paint out.

TIP: Before painting the nose cone, pull it out of the body tube slightly.
This gives you color coverage into the shoulder. Even if the nose cone is sitting a little above the body tube you won't see the balsa peeking through.

This doesn't work in all applications. This nose cone and upper body tube section are both white. Too much paint on the shoulder and the nose cone could stick and possibly prevent an ejection.