Quest Striker AGM Build, Part 1, Parts

Parts are iffy in this kit.
The tail cone lip is uneven. One side of the shoulder is wider than the other. This effects the fit of the 35mm body tube and root edge of the fins. It is actually a plastic transition adapter dating back to MPC in the 1970s.

The two piece MPC Nike Smoke nose cone fit is bad. It'll take quite a bit of filler to smooth out the seam.
The balsa sheet is broken up from being sent in the padded envelope.


The yellow engine mount tube had a wide open seam. The engine mount tube wall is too thin. It will be replaced with a new Odd'l Rockets heavy wall BT-20H tube. This rocket could use the new Quest C and D Q-Jets. I want a stronger engine mount.

The upper bend of the engine hook is too short to be effective. The hook is not spring steel and will be replaced with an new Odd'l Rockets 3" long XLEH (Extended Length Engine Hook) spring steel hook.

Quest Striker AGM Build, Background

It was bound to happen sooner or later, I've built this model before on the blog.
I really like this design, the Quest Stryker AGM.
My original has 14 flights on it. The first build was done in 2011.
It's the perfect size for the schoolyard with a B6-4 or a C6-5 launch at the large NEFAR field.
The new 18mm Quest Q-Jet C12 and D16 engines offer more possibilities.



Bob Sanford wrote that this one goes back to the original Enertek line. Grant Boyd did the design. I just might paint the new one in the Enertek decor. To see the Enertek catalog listing: CLICK HERE 

I'll be making some upgrades to the kit, including the engine mount using new Odd'l Rockets heavy wall BT-20H tubing. In the "Search" this new build will be listed as Q Striker AGM 2.





This kit was bought on Ebay from a group called Wise Guy Hobbies. They sent the kit in a padded envelope, the tube was badly bent. Wise Guy Hobbies would not refund or work with me to replace the tube. Luckily I found a 18" long Quest 35mm tube left over from the old Odd'l Rockets Squatty Body kits.

Estes Little Joe I Coming Soon!

On YORF, "The Mole" was the first to find and post
the latest "Coming Soon" announcement from Estes -

It's always interesting to see the parts laid out!
To see the catalog listing, CLICK HERE

The fins are built up with an external card stock skin.
There are new nozzle pieces molded in white plastic.
It uses the old Centuri Mercury Redstone capsule and tower.
I hope Estes improves the tower assembly pictorial instructions. Remember - build it using the old Centuri Mercury Redstone instructions, assemble it upside down!
CLICK HERE to see the instructions

EDIT: In the comments, Openroad let me know the Explorer Aquarius has also been added to the coming soon page -

ModelRockets.us Nexus Rocket - No Glue, No Cutting!

Every major vendor has their own version of a "school rocket". All claim theirs is easy to build.
This new NEXUS model from Discount Rocketry - ModelRockets.us might have the winning design edge.
While a few of the Estes E2X models are glueless or snap-together, the modelrockets.us Nexus gives the students the feeling they are actually assembling a rocket.

ModelRockets.us Nexus Model Rocket Kit (with Streamer) for $7.14
The first Patent Pending Glueless Model Rocket Assembly System of it's kind.

"It doesn't get an easier than this. A completely glueless rocket kit with unique through the wall fin mounting and integral motor mount using model rocket Kraft tubing for the motor mount and body. Assembles just like regular level 1 model rocket kit, but without any glue!"

The streamer version of the Nexus: CLICK HERE
A complete construction video on YouTube: CLICK HERE

I found the centering ring /fin lock feature interesting. No glue! The engine mount is locked in place by the thru-the-wall fin tabs. The root edges of the fins are locked on external rings.
This reminds me of the older external MPC/Quest fin locks, but the design is new and cleaner. For that matter, Aerotech rockets have internal fin lock tabs, but here it is on a smaller scale.
The video shows parachute assembly. The 12" parachute looks thicker than most, but the thicker sheet allows you to cut it out easily with scissors. The Nexus rocket is available with a parachute for $1.30 more. Heavy walled BT-50 sized tubes are used - another plus.

This "Glueless" concept is Patent Pending. It's too good of an improved design not to be protected.

I only had one concern with the video instructions - every tied knot is call a "double knot". If two overhand knots are tied on top of each (the same direction) other you end up with a "Granny". Granny knots can slip and open, not a reliable knot. Tie a Square Knot, also known as a Reef Knot.

How to tie a Square Knot: CLICK HERE

Streamer D Rocket Build, Finished

The Kevlar line is attached through a small hole in one fin. This allows the rocket to fall horizontally adding to the overall drag and a longer duration.

Notice the NAR number on the lower body. All NAR competition models must have the NAR number on them. That came in handy when somebody brought back my Helicopter Duration model. I had given it up for lost!

Streamer D Rocket Build, Part 5, ASP Streamer

I picked a 4" X 40" streamer from ASP.
This is thicker Mylar than what I am used to, it is 2 mils thick.
I didn't know if the folded streamer would even fit into the BT-5 body, I could always trim it down to a smaller 10 to 1 size ratio.

There is a piece of wire, used as a reinforcement "spine" where the Kevlar line is tied.

The streamer is marked for a tight accordion style fold. It has to fit into a 1/2" diameter BT-5 tube so the folds will be 3/8" wide.

After leaving some area clear for the Kevlar attachment, the streamer is marked with a fine point Sharpie at 3/8" increments.

Sharp folds are made at each 3/8" mark, one over and the next crease under making a zig-zag pattern.

I used the back end of a Sharpie for a good burnishing.

Here's how the streamer looked after seven or eight folds.
30 more inches to go!

At the end you leave 4 or 5 inches clear, not folded.
Set the wire down about 1/2" from the end. Fold the streamer end over the wire and tape closed.

Punch clean holes and tie on the Kevlar.

It wasn't very difficult to fold, hold and slide into the body tube.

The 4" X 40" length was too tight in the tube. I cut off about 6 inches and decreased the width down the entire streamer trying to keep it at the optimum 10 to 1 ratio.

Streamer D Rocket Build, Part 4, Kevlar Notch and Paint

The fins are glued on a bit forward of the end to allow a wrap of tape for engine retention.

The root edge of one fin is marked for a notch. The Kevlar line is knotted and glued on the root edge so the model will hang parallel to the ground under the streamer. This adds even more drag during recovery.

I made a small notch where the Kevlar will be attached after the rocket is painted.






Here's the finished build ready for fluorescent green paint.
I know, green paint? Not the best color for finding a model on the ground. This model will have a long, wide chrome Mylar streamer. It shouldn't be hard to find.

As shown before, fluorescent paint is flat and a rough finish. You can polish and smooth the flat finish by rubbing it with a soft cloth. That will bring it to a satin finish with less drag. The smoother finish will also help with decal adhesion.