It's a fascinating read. There are scans of the vacuform wraps as supplied in the Centuri kit, #KS-12.
The wraps and fin edges were die-cut. Check out the rough edges and the plastic lip surrounding the interstage wrap.
The wraps and fin edges were die-cut. Check out the rough edges and the plastic lip surrounding the interstage wrap.
This scan also includes the original hand written instructions by Centuri designer Keith Niskern. It's a good insight into what goes into producing instructions.
The reason I bring this up -
On page 46 is a PDF of the service module wrap. I always thought the Centuri service module looked better than the silver painted Estes version.
If cut correctly out of trim Monokote, it should cover up the filled slit under the U shaped hook.
On page 46 is a PDF of the service module wrap. I always thought the Centuri service module looked better than the silver painted Estes version.
If cut correctly out of trim Monokote, it should cover up the filled slit under the U shaped hook.
Here's how the hook turned out after filling and spraying.
You bring up what is a very sore spot with me. Centuri had a wrap to make the SM more accurate, while Estes simply said "paint the SM silver." The Centuri wrap was based on prototypes and not the final version that actually flew, but it was better than plain painted silver. In 50 years, Estes couldn't come up with anything better than to paint the SM. I wound up buying a Stickershock decal set with an SM wrap that looks a lot better. In time, I may try cutting some white plastic or balsa to create raised radiators on the SM, but that Stickershock wrap makes the SM look so much better!
ReplyDeleteHi Unknown,
DeleteI've built a few of the Estes (Centuri wraps) Saturn Vs over the years and usually give the client the choice on what they want on the service module wrap. Even though the Centuri chrome wrap wan't scale correct, it still looks better than just painting the section silver.
In fairness to Estes, they did improve a few things over the Centuri kit. The fins and the engine bells are molded rather than vacu-formed and make them easier to assemble. Also, I have never had issues with white paint coming off on masking tape (I encountered Centuri's advice when I assembled their Saturn 1B), so I am following Estes guidance to paint the model white and then apply the black roll patterns. Perhaps paint technology has improved over the decades, or the tape is better. It may simply be a matter of waiting for the paint to dry overnight before masking rather than driving on after a couple hours when the paint is dry to touch. The balsa centering rings on the Centuri model might have been overkill, although since I took the Tim Taylor approach and customized my Estes 1969 model with a 29mm tube for "More power!!!!" from F and maybe lower G engines, I also upgraded the centering rings from cardboard to basswood rings from Apogee Components.
ReplyDeleteI'm split about the third stage wrap. I still lean towards the Centuri approach of having separate wraps for the upper part and the lower part. Although having a single wrap for the entire stage negates having to fill the tube spirals, I also had to deal with having a seam to fill that proved problematic. There's also a part of me that prefers to have some of those details glued on instead of included in the vacu-formed wrap.
And that brings me to the one thing about the original Estes kit that I preferred to both the Centuri kit and the Estes 1969. I liked the details that were glued on to the Interstage, S-II, and S-IVB rather than molded in to the vacu-formed wraps. The ideal compromise would have been to make molded wraps like the Centuri kit, but with indentations where one would glue on the details such as ullage motors, thrusters, antennas, tunnels, etc. like the original Estes kit.
Ironically, I wanted the Centuri Saturn V model in 1970. My local hobby shop in Michigan was out of stock, and I really wanted a Saturn V, so I "settled" on the Estes model. I wish I had waited.
Hi Unknown,
DeleteThe new Estes #1969 kit has many good improvements.
I tend to wait 48 hours before masking, 24 hours in humid weather isn't enough for me.
I agree on the third stage overall wrap. It wan't that more difficult before and the paint took much longer to dry over the plastic skin.
Gluing on all the plastic details (like in the old Estes version) did make for sharper edges and easier masking.
My first Saturn V was also the Estes version. In 1969 it was only $10.00, while the Centuri Saturn V was $16.95! When I was 13 years old the decision was made on what I could afford.