TIP - Shroud Lines - AGAIN!

Maybe this post should be called "Teaching an old dog new tricks".

I've avoided the pre-assembled red parachutes that Estes had sent with their kits. These parachutes were substituted when traces of lead were found in the ink used to print the checkerboard patterns.

I was under the impression that these shroud lines would pull out when held in place with a sticky dot. My past experiences with pre-assembled parachutes have not been good.

But, these shroud lines are actually tied on to permanent tape disks.

When tying to a snap swivel, I noticed the shroud lines were attached in this fashion:



I'm of the old school, I would normally tie the shroud lines from point 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and 5 to 6.

I'd seen posts on the forums talking about tying the shrouds as shown in the drawing.






Tying the lines as in the drawing does make for less tangling when attaching to the small loop on a snap swivel.

Enlarge the picture and you can see the six shroud lines are in three groups of two, all side by side in the snap swivel eye.
Until a better idea comes along, I'll be attaching shroud lines this new way.

Centuri Nomad Clone Build Part 13 Chrome Trim

I still have some chrome Monokote trim left from other projects.

The original kit had some self adhesive chrome included. This clone kit didn't include them.
These chrome accents really set off the model and should be added.

The strips start at the lug standoff and go over the vanes and around the entire tube. They are a little tricky to have both ends line up on the other side.
I pressed the chrome into the root edges of the vanes with the rounded back end of a single edge razor blade.



Keep looking ahead as you go around the tube to have the ends line up. Trim the overlap off at the root edge of the lug standoff.

Centuri Nomad Clone Build Part 12 Decals

Whoever re-drew the decals must have been concerned about the original copyright.
They tried to change them just enough so they couldn't be called an "exact" copy.

Note the decal on the right.
The B and C letters should have their baselines turned in parallel to the root edge of the fin.
If left (and applied) like this, the word "Danger" would be upside down.
So I'll cut off the B and C letters and flip the decal.


When placing this rivet panel decal, I found it easier to press the decal into the root edge with a moistened Q-Tip.

Notice the word "Danger" is at the bottom now and isn't read upside down.

Centuri Nomad Clone Build Part 11 Decals

I won't be going into any detail about the white paint. There's no masking involved, the entire rocket gets an overall coat of white.
I did use gloss white, the decals will adhere better to a smoother gloss finish.

The picture at the right was a good plan anyway.
This stanchion decal goes around and over the launch lug and standoff.

The entire decal sheet was coated with clear by the vendor. There isn't any open area in the middle of the decal to fit over the lug and standoff.

If I were to cut a rectangle, there would be sharp corners and more chances of the decal tearing. To avoid this, I thought I'd make the inside corners round. Out comes my handy rotary punch again.

Straight cuts joined the punched circles.
The clear topcoat on the decals were too thin.

After a short 10 second soak in water, they folded in two and turned under.
I couldn't get them flat and open again no matter how many times I coaxed the edges with a wet brush. I ended up throwing these two decals away!The other decals were hard to apply but usable.

Centuri Nomad Clone Build Part 10 Primer

After a coat of primer, this is the front end after sanding.

Primer is really the best way to see and correct imperfections before the first real color coats.






The back end of the model ready for the white.

Centuri Nomad Clone Build Part 9 Gluing The Vanes

Before gluing the long vanes on the main tube, look down the length of them to make sure they are straight.

The pictured vane on top has a slight curve to it.
The lower vane has been straightened.




From the front of the rocket looking to the rear, the vane is in alignment with it's fin.





Here's the model with it's fins, vanes and lugs in place.
After glue fillets, it'll still get an overall coat of gray primer and sanding.

Launches! Schoolyard August 13 and 18, 2011

This is a combination of two launch days at the local schoolyard soccer field.
I wouldn't normally combine two launches, but on August 13 the wind came up quickly and storm clouds moved in. I had to pack up after only getting three in the air.

On August 13, before the storm:
The Odd'l Rockets CYCLONE flew with an Estes 1/2A3-2t engine.
Perfect boost, separation and spinning recovery.
The sky is blue to the West, but in the East, dark clouds are moving in.


The well worn carded CHEROKEE T flew with another old MPC 1/2A3-5t engine.
You can see by the inset picture, this model is fast off the pad. Perfect flight and recovery.

Also flown on August 13:
The ASP WAC CORPORAL with a MicroMaxx engine.





Flown on August 18:

Art Applewhite's Carded MONOCOPTER with an Estes A10-3t.
Look how short the launch rod is, only 1/2" of rod sticks out the top of the Popsicle stick body. Fast spin and a loud "whir".




Here's the Semroc THUNDERBEE with an MPC 1/2A3-5t engine.
Always a stellar boost to 450' and streamer recovery.
Is it just me, or do others get fins broken off at the root edge at landing?






My biggest launch of the morning, on this small field, was the MPC NIKE PATRIOT.
With an Estes B6-4 under it, I probably got 375' altitude. At apogee, the 35 year old MPC parachute opened fine. The tape strips holding the shroud lines have been replaced. That heavy duty fin can is indestructible.

Also flown on August 18:
The carded Micro SKYWRITER with a Quest MMX engine. This thing gets well over 125'. Quick and reliable.