Semroc Defender Build Part 16 Fin Can Mask Part 1

Clear Scotch tape was set on my glass patio door.
Since the fin can is already painted white, I wanted the edges of my clear tape easy to see.
A permanent marker was used to draw a line down the middle of the tape strips. Cutting down the middle also gives you two masking pieces and a clean edge.

A sharp knife and straight edge cut through the middle of the thick, marked line.


I didn't want a square top around the rounded leading edge.
Here's one way to get the rounded mask.

Small pieces of tape are set around the leading edge tip. There is four small pieces around each side and a final piece over the tip.




The longer tape strips go down the fin sides.

I had used the Titebond M & TG for fillets. I wanted the color separation right down the middle of the rounded fillet.
With the tape edge black, it's easier to see the edge and judge how well it's centered.

Enertek 2000 and Quest Striker AGM Comparison

Bob (Initiator 001 on TRF) posted this about an Enertek kit that was never produced.











Nice work on the Enertek Astra 2000 model. (See Picture)

Some history...
The Astra 2000 model was designed by Grant Boyd when he was working at Enertek. It was the 'first' Enertek model.

The prototype was made from parts of an FSI Black Brant kit.
By the time the Enertek catalog picture was taken, the model had sustained some damage. Thanks to lighting and selective photography, the damage is not seen.
Another Enertek kit makes it into production.

You can see the entire 1989 Enertek catalog HERE

Semroc Defender Build Part 15 Upper Mask

Here's the entire upper section of the rocket in gray primer.
This half is an easy mask, most of the color is in the roll pattern decals.





The uppermost section is painted black, halfway between the 3" long ST-5 tube to the top of the nose cone.

This is the mask, Scotch tape at the color separation line, masking tape and white paper behind that.




With that mask complete, you start to see how the upper section will look finished.

Another Bully Wannabe on YORF

Anyone who knows rocketry recognizes the designs from Shrox.
Except this guy - "Dyaugo" on the Ye Olde Rocket Forum.

Here's the link to the drama - HERE
I've always hated bullies, whether it was on the schoolyard or now on the Internet.
I remained sarcastic, civil and accepted his design challenge.
But, the moderator shut down the thread after Dyaugo threw around big words.
I would assume Dyaugo is younger and painted himself into a corner.

Too me Facebook is boring. Sometimes the Rocket forums can be hysterical.
You just have to recognize when someone is pulling your leg.
You should see the design ideas that are rolling around inside the box.

Edit: Thanks to Dick Stafford for noticing I wrote TRF instead of YORF the first time I posted this!

Semroc Defender Build Part 14 Nose Weight

I looked up the Centuri Defender instructions at:
http://www.oldrocketplans.com/

Here's step 11 from the instructions.
With three C6-5 engines, the recommended nose weight is .27 oz.





Here's the clay weight from the Semroc kit.
The clay square weighs in at .55 oz.





In order to fit the clay into the ST-5 tube at the top, you have to roll it into a round cylinder.

Take into account the shoulder length from the lower adapter and the nose cone shoulder. All of the supplied clay won't fit into the small ST-5 top section. I cut off the excess.
The cut clay weighed .40 oz. That's more than the Centuri instructions call for, but with three engines under it, the extra weight shouldn't matter.

Model Profile - Dr. Zooch Ares 1 "Stick"

Here's a real favorite build, the Dr. Zooch Ares 1 "Stick"











This is a great first time semi-scale build. The wraps add detail and strength.
Dr. Zooch has recently lowered the price on this kit.
Unlike other Zooch kits, the flame fins are glued on for display and flight.
The flame color is from an overall white coat, yellow on the outside edges and a light dusting of orange.
If you want to see it scream, launch it with a C6-7 to 1,500 feet!

Semroc Defender Build Part 13 Painting The Fin Can

I had started spraying primer and noticed there was no launch lug!

It was glued next to a larger fin and filleted with the Titebond M & TG.





This fin can assembly will be painted off the model, slid on and glued afterwards.

I didn't have anything of a larger diameter to make a painting wand, so masking tape was wrapped around a casing, sticky side out
This was pressed inside the fin can wall.




Masking tape was set over the body tube edges and up under the larger fin root edge extensions.

It'll be important to keep the paint off all gluing surfaces.