ASP Corporal Build, Part 2, New Kevlar Knot

First up you are instructed to tie a loop knot in the upper end of the Kevlar. This loop will tie to the elastic shock cord.
Usually I tie an overhand knot to make an attachment loop.
This might be my new upper attachment knot.

The instructions say to tie an overhand knot 6" or 7" from the end. I thought this was a bit long so I tied the overhand knot at 4" from the end.

The end is brought back through the loop in the knot and the knot tightened.
Then a half hitch is tied and pulled tight against the overhand knot.

The instructions state the loop can end up between 1" and 2".
I went for a 1" loop. A 2" loop seemed too long.

The BIG Fix, FlisKits MMX Crayon, Part 1

On it's third launch, my Fliskit Crayon lost a launch lug and the rear centering ring. The clear fins had already been re-glued a few times. The CA glue used on the fins was starting to cloud up the root edges.

I didn't have another MMX centering ring or launch lug. Instead of waiting for a mail order, I'll fix it with something close by.

I've wrapped MMX centering rings before. It's easy to do with 110 lb. card stock.
A long strip was cut the same width as the ring still on the model.

A glue stick was wiped down the back.

This was wrapped around the engine mount approximating the outside diameter of the top ring.

To line up the wrapped layers, the mount was slid into the upper section Crayon. The wraps were pressed against the end of the body tube with the side of a hobby knife.

A white glue fillet was applied and the excess wiped off with a Q-tip.
Don't glue the ring to the upper section. The upper section was just used for positioning.

ASP Corporal Build, Part 1, Parts

I haven't built many of the ASP (Aerospace Specialty Products) kits except for two of their Micro Maxx models. I've always liked the looks of the Corporal. This is a BT-50 based, 18mm model.

ASP also makes a BT-55, 24mm version. I picked this one up at JonRocket.com. 

Parts are standard and high quality. 

Parts of interest, clockwise from the upper left:
The clay nose weight, vinyl roll pattern, two longer 3/16" square balsa for tunnels, a metallic orange 12", 8 sided Mylar parachute, two smaller 1/8" square balsa tunnel pieces, red motor mount tube, large screw eye and snap swivel, black vinyl for fin area roll pattern, 1/16" basswood for fins, fin pattern.





The clay weighs in at .85 oz.
I don't think I'll be using all of it.

3D Printed V2 on TRF

MrBill2u Posted this on TRF.
Now 3D printing gets very interesting - 

"There is a member of these forums by the name of Raygun who has a shop set up at Shapeways for 3D printed rocket parts. This is a tiny build thread for his BT-55 V2.
Check out the V2 fin can at the Shapeways website HERE
All the available rocket parts: HERE 
Things get interesting on Page 2

Here is a shot of the nosecone and fin can together. I shouldn't have any difficulty coming in under the 3 oz limit of an A engine with weights like this.

The build itself was 10 minutes. I tied the shock chord in a loop, wrapped it around the motor mount, slipped the centering ring on it and tacked it down with CA. I also tacked the nose cone pin with CA on either side. I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and used it to secure the centering ring and then applied some to the tail cone aft section and tail cone built in centering ring. I inserted the motor mount and left just enough protruding from the back to run a small bead of epoxy around it. I then applied epoxy to the shoulder of the fin can and the inside of the air frame and slid it together. If I had 30 minute epoxy on hand I would have taken some pictures of the build, but the 5 minute clock did not allow for photography. 

Here is the completed rocket coming in just short of 12". I should get a chance to at least get it filled and primed this weekend."

The 3D printed nose cone and fin can are BT-55 based.
This makes this V2 the same size as the old Estes kit.

I have a feeling a few new rocket part companies will be springing up.

Star Trooper Oops!

On TRF, Top Ramen posted pictures on his recently finished Estes Star Trooper.
Anybody notice anything wrong?
Post your answer in the "Comments" below.
(There's nothing wrong with TopRamen's build. It's something Estes didn't get right.)
TopRamen's model looks good in the blue. I don't think I'd paint anything this small the same color as grass.

Fliskits MACME Shrew Finished

For a MicroMaxx model, this one won't get any great altitudes. But it doesn't have to.
It is stout and heavier than most MMX kit designs.













Getting all the segments to line up takes time, even on the larger BT-70 based Flis ACME Spitfire.
The kit is labeled as a Level 3 build. Working smaller is always more demanding.
With the skins there is no painting and they look great without a lot of added weight.
The 20 lb. printed paper skins probably weigh about the same as a coat of paint.

Fliskits MACME Shrew Build, Part 20, Fin Gluing

The fin shapes are a little confusing, all four are different.
I had to set them into the original laser cut cardstock piece to be sure.

The fins were tacked on using very little glue. (See the last paragraph for the reason why.)
The inset picture shows the offset of Fin #1. I is glued just to the side of the shroud seam edge. (This isn't mentioned in the instructions, I was just trying to hide the seam edge with the root edge of the fin.)
This throws off the perfect 90 degree "cruciform" you'd normally want.
All the other fins fall right on the lines and bolts printed on the shroud.

The other three fins could be glued on beside the printed lines. From the rear everything would have looked more aligned.


The instructions say: 
"All fins with the exception of Fin #3 are flush with the bottom off the shroud."
The drawing shows the trailing edges a little forward of the rear of the shroud.
I glued them more like the illustration. There is a printed line going all the way around the shroud. The rear of Fins 1, 2 and 4 were set on the line.

This picture was taken after the finished photos shown in the next blog post.

I used very little glue to get finished pictures of the model.
The fins were carefully cut off to pack the model for the flight home the first of July. The fin span is the widest part of the model and more apt to be bent or torn off the shroud in transit.