Jolly Logic Chute Release Owners Manual

Courtesy of Randy at asp-rocketry.com - 
You can see the new Jolly Logic Chute Release Owners Manual:

CLICK HERE

This is a game changer!

New Way A-20 Demon Build Part 13, More Chrome Trim

Don't set the edge down first, center and set down the adjacent side first.
Go slow. Rub your finger over the corners to coax the wrap over them.

Keep the backing on the wrap and only remove it as needed going  around the square tube.








Here's the finished payload tube.

This metallic wrap isn't quite as shiny as the chrome wrap in the old Estes kit. That's a moot point, this wrap looks great.

New Way A-20 Demon Build Part 12, Chrome Trim

The large wrap goes around the payload section tube.

The top and bottom are pre-cut. The sides will have to be trimmed.
Trim off the side edge up to the ends of the printed black lines.



With "one-shot" wraps you've got to plan ahead.
Before applying the wrap, mark the center of the tube flat.
You'll want to center the dots over the pencil mark.





The kit instructions explain how to apply the wrap.

Lift up the backing and trim off about 3/4" of an inch.
You'll be lifting off the backing little by little as the wrap is rolled on.

New Way A-20 Demon Build Part 11, Masking One Black Fin

One fin was chosen for the black mask. I used Scotch Tape again.

First the sides were set down, centered in the middle of the fillets.
Next a piece was set over the top.
Then two diagonals.
After the picture was taken, four more diagonals were added to further round off the leading edge.

The inset picture has the masking tape pieces over the Scotch Tape, widening the mask area.

A painting wand (dowel with engine casing) was set into the engine mount.
The bottom of a plastic grocery bag was punched over the dowel end. (The stick is upside down in the left side of the picture.)

The open end of the bag is taped around the other three fins and the body tube.

After spraying the tape was lifted.
On the left you can see some black over spray spots above the black fin.

A damp Mr. Clean Magic Eraser took off the paint.

New Estes Little Joe Instructions are Online!

I was surprised to find the new Little Joe II instruction PDF on the Estes website this morning:
CLICK HERE

It usually takes a while for new kit instructions to be posted. For all those waiting for their kit, this could be some good "pre-build" reading.

Step 2 has you remove a 1/16" section from a short length of tube. The third illustration shows it is glued on the outside of the tube. The ring will support the raised band at the rear of the wrap. (Thanks to Rick Randol for the correction!)
The double thickness centering rings (Part E) have cut-outs to keep the weight down in the back end.
Six pats of clay nose weight are included. Some goes in the upper escape rocket, more is pressed into the top of the capsule.
The rubber shock cord is tied to a notch in the upper centering ring of the engine mount.
There are LOTS of plastic detail pieces (Parts L, M, N, O and P) shown on page 3.
The parts illustration doesn't show the water slide decal sheet.
Painting direction is vague. From all I've read, chrome paint is difficult to use. The instructions don't say if the corrugated section is painted silver or chrome.
The do say a clear coat can be applied. A clear coat could dull the metallic finish.
A single 24" parachute is used. I would probably go with the 24" chute on the body and a 15" on the capsule, tied so it lands with the tower pointing up.
Check out page 10 and 11 of the old Centuri instructions for how to rig the Command Module parachute: CLICK HERE
Referring to the more detailed Centuri instructions might answer any questions regarding the CM and tower assembly. (The CM and tower are from the old Centuri molds.)
15 to 16 squares of wadding? The body tube is 3.4" diameter.

Yeah, I know, I'm being picky. I don't even have the kit in my hands.
Looking at the instructions, these are some points that might help out those first builds.

New Way A-20 Demon Build Part 10, Undercoats and Touch-ups

Titebond M&TG was used for fillets. Two layers of fillets were applied.
Run your fingertip down the dried fillet and you might feel some bumps. Those will show up after the paint is applied.

I wrapped some old 400 grit around a Q-tip for cushioned dry sanding.
It only takes a few passes to knock down any raised areas.

The entire model was assembled and sprayed gloss white.

After filling seams and filler primer sanding, these square tubes seem to be a little rougher than a standard Estes style tube.

The first white coat was wet (damp) sanded with 400 grit.
Another white coat and more sanding followed.
NOTE: Never wet sand a model until the color coats are sprayed and the wood and tube surfaces are sealed by the paint.

I sanded into the TM&TG fillets. I thought the dark areas would show underneath the yellow paint.
Some gloss white was sprayed into a small cup. Enough white was brushed on to lighten the sanded through paint.

In the reflected light you can see some touch-up paint on the leading edge.
A touch-up like this can save you from another spray coat.

Little Joe II Available?

Yesterday on YORF, Brent posted:
Now showing in stock. http://www.estesrockets.com/coming-...7-little-joe-ii

While still listed in the "Coming Soon" page, there is an "Add To Cart" button,
But below that in red it says: ARRIVING MID JANUARY!
It is mid January, maybe this is a day or two early pre-order.
As soon as they are ready in Penrose, you'll get yours!