Tuesday, November 19, 2019

Tools - The Essentials, A Decent Sanding Block, Part 1



Here's the sanding block I used for a few years before finding the Great Planes Easy Sander. This is the Warner #436, made for drywall work.
The upper block and wing nut clamped down and tightly held a quarter piece of sandpaper.

They don't make the wooden blocks anymore.
This is the new Warner block, #34436. It's plastic now, the wing nut is replaced with black plastic clamps.
I picked this one up at Lowe's for about $3.00.





The two black clamps are pinched towards the center and the top lifted about 1/4". The sandpaper sheet can be slid out and replaced.
That weird shaped red knob at the top fits the hand comfortably.
More in the next post - 

Estes Space Corps Corvette Class, #7281 Build, Finished (Almost!)












This is a sharp rocket, built around the strong BT-55 tube. As explained earlier, the decals weren't applied awaiting the minor corrections.
It reminds me of some other classic models that had many large decals like the Citation Patriot or Interceptor. Well, maybe not as many decals as the Interceptor.

Monday, November 18, 2019

Estes Space Corps Corvette Class, #7281 Build, Part 6, Details & Decals




The fin detail "guns" are slid in place and glued at the ends.
Check the exposed ends to make sure that the rear end of the red gun extends 1/2" out the back. The front exposure is longer.






I really like the new 18mm screw-on engine retainers.

I glued the threaded center ring in place with the Beacon Fabri-Tac. On the right is the screwed on retainer.



This build was a pre-production sample kit. There is always something that gets revised before kits are sold.

The Star in the Stars and Bars isn't resting on two points. This star will be rotated and corrected before the kit is distributed.


The kit I received had a full decal sheet. I was asked not to place the decals, that would be done by Estes after the model was sent back.

I did cut and place one fin decal side to show how colorful this model is. This was removed before shipping back to Penrose.

Sunday, November 17, 2019

Estes Space Corps Corvette Class, #7281 Build, Part 5, Details Gluing & Masking






The fin detail lugs are easy to glue on crooked. Look at them directly from the outside to be sure they are straight on the edge of the fin.

The dowel "guns" are sprayed gloss red off the model. It's simply easier to paint them before to save some masking later.
The centers have tape over them to keep paint off the glued surfaces.
The body is a light gray, the three fins and nose cone are a darker gray.

I did my usual Scotch tape masks on the edge with masking tape and a plastic grocery bag to cover the rest. The corners at the upper edge are rounded off.

On the right is the mask reveal. Notice the tape is pulled back down and over itself at a sharp angle. I like to pull the masking tape when the paint is still a bit tacky, not fully dry. It makes for less tearing of the mask line.

Saturday, November 16, 2019

Estes Space Corps Corvette Class, #7281 Build, Part 4, Nose Cone, L. Lug and Fin Gluing




I noticed a slight lip on the tip of the molded nose cone. It was sanded and the tip rounded.

This is injected molded, not a blow molded nose cone. There are no seams down the sides! It was very clean.


The base is glued into the open bottom of the nose cone. This is one of the first times I have noticed a "twist" to evenly spread out the glue. 
I used the Beacon Fabri-Tac on the two plastic pieces.



The longer launch lug was glued on the tube, centered between two fins.
The online instructions don't show Page 4, the step where the launch lug is glued on the body tube. It is glued 6" brom the bottom of the tube.

TIP: These pictures show how the glue fillet is "rolled off" going around the front and rear ends. Roll a Q-tip to more of a point and pick up the excess glue from the ends.


I usually fill the tube seams and spray some filler primer before gluing on the launch lug and fins. You do have to sand off the filler/primer down to the body tube surface.

I sand a bit wider than the fin and lug width for glue fillet adhesion.









The three fins are glued on and glue fillets applied.

Friday, November 15, 2019

Tools - The Essentials, New Cheaper Sandpaper Roll!

I mentioned earlier how much I use the OOP Great Planes Easy Sander sanding block. The sandpaper is sticky, no clamping!

A problem - Great Planes sandpaper rolls are expensive and aren't available in grits finer than 220 grit.
I found some 400 grit sandpaper rolls on the Klingspor Woodworking website.
The sandpaper was very fine and very sticky! I couldn't pull it off the sanding block!
Daniel (The Rocket Noob) wrote and said to peel it off under running water. That helped, but still left some gum that needed Goof -Off to remove.




I found some adhesive backed sandpaper rolls on the Home Depot website. 400 grit, 75 feet for $20.00!
This is a much better price than the Great Planes or Klingspor rolls.
To see it: CLICK HERE




It's wider than the face of the sanding block, just cut off the excess with scissors. And, it's easy to peel off! No goo is left.
TIP: Cutting fine grit sandpaper with scissors can sharpen the scissors!

Estes Space Corps Corvette Class, #7281 Build, Part 3, Fin Details



There are four pieces of launch lugs in the kit.
Three shorter lugs are used for the fin details (guns)
The fourth is the longer 1/8" standard lug to slide down the launch rod.

Here I've slid the lugs down some Q-tips handles to brush on some seam filling with CWF. Brush it on, let dry and sand off leaving the filler in the lug seams.






Before cutting the dowel to three 2 1/2" lengths, smooth sand it. It's easier to smooth when it is still a long piece.

The dowel is cut and the ends rounded.
The dowels were sprayed with filler/primer and sanded smooth.



The dowels are held in the launch lugs with some wraps of masking tape.
TIP: After getting the right friction fit, I unrolled the tape. The tape length was about 2 3/4" long.

TIP: Before wrapping the tape, mark the center of the dowel and the tape strip. Match the center marks and wrap the tape, keeping the sides even.