Semroc V2 Build, Part 11, Extending The Body

I had to make a coupler from a short length of BT-55 to add on the short extension.
1.Cut a segment of tube.
2. Cut vertically down the tube using scissors. Cut in a straight line.
3. Set tightly in tube and trace down the overlap with a sharp pencil.
4. Cut off the overlap with another straight line, just to the side of the pencil line.
You should end up with a tight fit and clean joint seam.
The coupler is glued about 1/3 the way into tube.




On the left is the BT-55 extension slid in place over the coupler.
On the right is the simple mask for the silver paint.



Ah crud! (Not the wording I really used.)

Metallic paints don't always pull clean when masked. This will have to be sanded, masked and painted again.
I thought about setting the V2 aside for a little while.
Did you ever build a model and it seemed cursed? We've all been there. I wasn't happy with the earlier fin mask, it's just okay.
The fix is coming . . .

I Wish They Didn't Do That - Part 6, Videos, Some Do This Right!

I like seeing launch videos on Facebook - except . . .

When you have to wait through thirty seconds of seeing the rocket standing still on the launcher.
The RSO talks and talks . . . then finally the eventual press of the launch button.

David Hofmann does it right, Countdown and Launch! - CLICK HERE
Sure, we could scroll ahead, but take a moment and edit.

Semroc V2 Build, Part 10, Picking The Paint Pattern

The model got a few coats of gloss white, sanding any rough spots between coats. The tail cone assembly isn't glued on yet. Having it separate should make the masking a bit easier.




Now to pick a paint pattern - 
There were many different variants from camouflage to the black and white White Sands patterns.
In the Peter Alway book, Scale Bash I found this one named "Blossum". It's different than most, two opposite fins remain white on both sides. A roll pattern with horizontal stripes is on the other two fins.

I didn't read the descriptive copy until I was done painting the black. "The V2 was lengthened by one diameter in the series of eight flights."
Lengthened by one diameter? I'll have to find some scrap BT-55 in the parts drawer.

I didn't take any pictures of the masking - this was not a fun mask.
I used my regular Scotch tape, masking tape over that and a grocery bag for the large areas.
The picture shows the paint lines after touch-ups. The fins bottoms are flat, there is some distortion in the picture.

I used the ACE Hardware Store Premium enamel for the black. This paint dries very quickly so the masking tape has to be pulled almost right after spraying!

Semroc V2 Build, Part 9, Gluing On The Details

The trimmed lug locations were sanded to remove the filler/primer down to the beige CWF filler.

The gluing edges are narrow, more glue was set up and inside the top for an internal fillet. You'll find these much easier to position using long tweezers.





After the glue dried, small fillets were applied with the tip formed Q-tips shown earlier.

The inside ends were cleaned up with a sharp knife.

The launch lug area was sanded down to the body tube and the lug glued in place.

TIP: Check the lug alignment using an aluminum angle set down the tube.

Semroc V2 Build, Part 8, Launch Lug Trim

The original instructions give a full size template for cutting the turbine exhausts and pull out plugs from standard launch lugs.

TIP: Draw pencil lines extending the cut lines beyond the launch lug sides. Why extend the cut lines? When you set the lug on the full size illustration, the lug covers the angled cut! The extension lines give you something to line up the blade.

Launch lugs are tough to cut, they can be easily crushed. Be sure to use a new, sharp razor blade.

Set the lug over the instruction drawing, line up the blade on the extended pencil lines drawn earlier. It might take some "sawing" back and forth to cut through the lug.

Cut the back end angle first, what's on the right side of the drawing above.
TIP: You'll find it easier to make the first back end cut and sand that edge smooth. Then make the second longer forward angle cut. You wouldn't be able to sand the edges when the small piece is completely cut off the lug.

I actually cut four of each and picked the two that were the closest in size and shape.

Try to get all the sides cleaned up before gluing onto the tail cone. The inset picture shows a clean cut and sanded first cut.

Tools - The Essentials, Diamond Needle Files

Small diamond files come in handy when forming details, filing engine hook slots in centering rings,  opening up nose cone eyelets, spin drilling holes and filing down seams on plastic nose cones.

After I bought diamond dust files, I got rid of my old X-Acto metal files.The diamond dust doesn't wear down or load up as fast as the X-Acto files did.
I picked mine up at Harbor Freight: CLICK HERE
10 piece file set, $6.99

Semroc V2 Build, Part 7, Gluing On The Fins

Marking templates are cut out and pencil marks made at the fin locations. Set the tail cone and body tube on a table with the flat sides of the templates facing down. After adjustments I taped the marking templates in place and marked the fin locations.




It's not easy to draw a straight line down a curved boat tail.

I set a piece of tape down the two pencil marks and drew a line. Laying a piece of tape down on the boat tail will give you a line that is almost straight, it'll have a very slight curve to it.

The fin was set beside the line to gauge the position height. The primer/filler was sanded down to the CWF for a stronger bond.




The instructions say to build up fillet layers that taper and get wider to the rear. The older instructions say to do three layers of glue, I did four. They did look thick when drying, but after paint they didn't seem wide enough.







This illustration shows some very wide fillets!