Cleaning Up! Missing Posts?

Stuff happens!

I wondered why a few readers asked where I got the balsa nose cone for the EAC Firecat build. I thought all that was covered in the first "Parts" post. Doing some backtracking, I found that post was still in Draft form, never published! To see it: CLICK HERE

I also skipped Step 22 of the most recent Super Orbital Transport build. It's in the correct order now! To see it: CLICK HERE

The NewWay Boxie Birdie was missing build step Part 4. Here's that correction: CLICK HERE

That's enough cleaning up for tonight. No other posts today - instead, there are now three never seen (missing) build steps.

I did make up a new name banner for the top of the blog -

That NewWay SquaRed Max build is coming up!

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Finished

I didn't get a overall, full picture of the finished model. One of those: "It was packed up before I realized it!"

It looks just like the original BT-50 version of the kit, only bigger. To see the BT-50 finished pictures: CLICK HERE

Above is the underside of the larger Super O.T. version.

To the right is the top end.

And the Glider.

The correct title is "Parasite Glider".

The Glider underside - 

I was happy with the fit of the wing and elevon dihedrals.

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 22, Finishing Up -

Here's the back end of the glider.

The Nozzle is glued in, all the decals are in place.

This is the wrap decals that rolls around the back end of the engine housings.

It's a little tricky - be sure to wet the painted, sealed surface before sliding the decal into place.

I saved gluing in the engine tubes for the end of the build.

You can certainly glue them in earlier as shown in the instructions, but I was able to get better paint coverage painting them before assembly.

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 21, Final Decals, Ends & Edges

Before soaking the long narrow side decals -

Cut a relief at the bottom of the decal to clear the small front canard fins on both sides.

If you have built the Low Boom SST, you know about the long decals that can stretch.

TIP: I cut the long side stripe decal in two halves. Trust me on this one!

Apply the front half, let dry, then transfer the rear half.

The rear surface of the engine mount centering ring is even with the end of the BT-55 booster body tube. This is why you'll want to sand centering rings flat (before assembling the engine mount) so on the finished model the ring end will show a smooth surface.

I hadn't glued the engine mount in the body yet and it still needed to be painted gloss white. The rings and the extension of the engine hook were taped off and sprayed.

The interior of the glider nozzle is black. I used a wide point black Sharpie to color the inside surface.

On the left you can see some of the black on the edge of the nozzle.

Some very light sanding with 800 grit removed the black ink and gave a clean, white edge. 

Before gluing the nozzle in the rear of the glider, 

You can still do a little forming of the circle shape if it ended up slightly oval.

The nozzle is glued into the rear of the glider, with the centering ring even with the end of the tube. 

TIP: Rotate and line up the shroud seam at the bottom and it won't be as noticeable.

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 20, Booster Decals

Another two decal overlap!

The small Glider cockpit windows are set into the open area of the Booster rear decal.

I didn't want to risk a transfer tear or fold under with that sharp inside cut.

TIP: Cut the decal into two pieces.

These decals are thin. They are useable with some "work-arounds". 

Set the half first as shown on the left.

The red rectangles and band are applied after the rear black decal has dried.

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 19, Orbiter Decals

On the left is the decal illustration from the instructions. Notice how the Orbiter rudder decal (left picture, right side) juts into the open space of the rear tube decal.

TIP: When cutting out the decals, don't make any sharp inside corners. Round out any inside cuts as shown on the right.

Sharp corner cuts invite tears in the thin decals.

   

Do a dry fit to see how far this tube decal tucks into the tube/wing joint.

Be sure to rub some water onto the tube surface and leave wet before transferring decals onto the model. The wet surface allows for repositioning. 

Here's another example of decal overlap on the sheet. Again, use rounded cuts.

TIP: On this application - Start the slide off from the straight front edge with the longest straight cut.

Down the body of the Orbiter is the name decal. Note the position of the flipped over straightedge. 

The small tip (left red side) lines up in a straight line. The rear (right side) taper turns up a bit.

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 18, Nozzles & Paint

I painted the engine tubes off the model so I could get white paint into the housings and full coverage on the tubes.

These were spray painted Gloss White and allowed to dry.

The tubes were lifted off the tape and turned to get the other side covered.

You could do this with a brush and black paint - 

I went the easy route blackening the inside rear half of the engine tubes with a medium point Sharpie.

Note the tube edge is still white. 

Before spray painting the Glider nozzle,

TIP: Lightly sand off any ink lines off the edges.

This ink could bleed through the final white paint.

Here's the nozzle assembly taped down to a piece of scrap cardboard for Gloss White spraying.