New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 3, Engine Mount & Shock Cords

The engine mount assembly is standard. A slip over coupler holds down the middle of the engine hook.

Here, the Kevlar line is tied beneath the upper plywood centering ring.

There isn't much space between the outer BT-50 and BT-20 engine mount tube. A larger square knot could bulge out the BT-50 tube wall.

I used an overhand knot, but rolled the Kevlar over and under the wrap 4 times. This still allows the wrap to be pulled tight and keeps the line close to the engine tube.

The wrap is set into the wet glue centering ring fillet. The loose tail is cut off and also set into the glue fillet.

The picture to the right shows the heat shrink tube slip down to the top of the ring, protecting the Kevlar line. 

The short shrink wrap is slid over the tied knot joining the elastic and Kevlar line.

Near the elastic, be careful with your heat gun - 

TIP: Using the low setting on my heat gun, the elastic started to melt!

I had to cut off the old knot and re-tie the elastic and Kevlar. I might tie an additional piece of elastic to the shorter line joined to the Kevlar.

The second time, I kept more distance between the heat gun and the heat shrink tube.

Second try was good! (Maybe that's why two pieces of tubing were included.)

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 2, Parts Of Interest

New Way now includes heat shrink tubing to protect the Kevlar shock cord line. The smaller heat shrink tube goes over the elastic shock cord and Kevlar knot. My kit included two of the smaller tubes.

On the lower left is the big nozzle. 

Lower right is the re vinyl trim tape. 

The name decals are fun!

Read vertically, you can make out the "LUNAR JUMPER" name.

On the left are the red vinyl trim cutting guides.

And - the fin marking guides.

Included in New Way kits are some pieces of 320, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. 

A short emery board and Q-tips.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 1, Parts

Here's New Way's newest kit -

The LUNAR JUMPER.

19" tall, BT-50 based, 12" parachute.

Lots of short tubes, fin details and large plastic nozzle. 

Skill Level 2
 

All the parts, more in the next post:

Estes USS Enterprise Build #1275, Finished

The picture above shows the Enterprise connected to the long "recovery probe", required for stabile flight. Note the dowel "finger" set over the top of the large disk.

This design had to be a stable flight challenge for the Estes designers. For me, it was a visual disappointment. 

The underside showing the clip on recovery probe. Painting it black doesn't camouflage the addition.

Will I ever launch it? Probably not. Even with internal plywood reinforcements it's delicate and would have recovery damage. I wouldn't want to repair cracked vacu-form plastic.

I know, the bead of glue on the radar dish is too large.

The decals ended up being a mix of originals and reprints.

To be honest - I'm glad this one is finished!

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 53, Loose Ends and "Probe"

I did my usual paint scrape of the engine hooks. 

Near the motor, that paint would blister and chip off.

On the recovery probe, the end of the engine hook was also scraped.

The Midget style nose cone gets two of the old style lead weights.

You'll need them for stability.

A SC-2 rubber shock cord is only 18" long. I replaced it with a much longer elastic cord.

I attached the 18" parachute to the shock cord, about 4" away from the screw eye.

Here's how the recovery probe clips onto the BT-20 tube at the underside of the assembly.

Slip over the coupler and lock the engine hook into the slit cut into the lower BT-20 tube.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 52, Assembling The Assemblies!

This was one step I took very carefully.

Contact cement is applied to both parts to be joined. If it dries, the two glued surfaces can grab immediately!

I thought if I didn't let the cement totally dry there would be some extra time for adjustments.

I quickly applied a bead of cement to both sides and immediately pressed the two assemblies together.

Visually line up as best as you can from the front - Check the equal spacing of the propulsion units above the disk top.

- and the rear.

Hold both assemblies tightly together as the glue dries and sets up.

I'm glad this one is winding up . . . 

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 51, Replacing Lifting Decals!

Before starting this build I ordered replacement decals from cmrproducts.com. You're probably asking: "Why didn't I use the new decals?" 

Some of the CMR decals were blistered, shown on the right. Not all of the decals, just some. I kept them just in case.

That chipped yellow circle was replaced. 

Before soaking, I cut it where it lays over the raised hull seam. This gave a much better fit.

One of the red arcs was lifted off the surface.

Both arcs were replaced.

Most of the larger decals were fine and holding. 

The skinny line decals weren't staying down.

On the left is the before, the red line is lifting while the other one broke off and is short.

On the right is the replacements.

I also painted the raised beacon dome silver.