Estes Sandpiper, Kit # 1389, Nose Cone Backstory

Blog readers might remember a post about a badly produced 3D nose cone:

CLICK HERE

That smaller nose cone is pictured on the left. It wasn't sized to a BT-50 and had a badly ridged surface.

On the right is the correct size 3D nose cone sent to me by James G. (Augendoc on the forums)

This is a well produced nose cone! Smooth (fine ridges, easily smoothed) with a perfect fit in a BT-50.

The rocketry community can be very helpful. Thanks James!

The nose tip did need minor shaping, easily cleaned up with a sanding block.

Here's the two different shoulder bases.

One has a hole for a screw eye, the other a horizontal bar to tie off a shock cord.

I'll be using the base with the screw eye, it seems stronger.

Meanwhile - at Odd'l Rockets . . .

Here's the floor of my living room after completing three  of my largest orders to date! That black box in the back holds an Accordion. This might be why I'm single.

The brown bags contain the smaller items like Raise Springs, Birdies and Adeptors.

40 Raise springs, 20 Adeptors and 162 kits  - Whew!

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Finished

Another great design from New Way.

This model captures the spirit of the sci-fi films from the 1950s.

I should get a lighter red paint for the nose cone to match the tape trim.

The addition of the red trim tape reminds me of some Centuri kits. Centuri included red trim tape in their Skylab. Other kits included chrome trim.

Lots of detail in the multi piece fins. I like the curved trailing edges.
 

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 13, Red Trim Tape

The red trim tape is cut using the cardstock template.

Set the tape down the lines and cut with a new blade. 

You are supplied with some extra red trim tape.

Near the top of the body tube, it gets a red line wrap.

I set down a wrap of masking tape for easier alignment and to make sure the red trim ends meet. 

The short BT-20 tubes get a wrap of red trim. Note the three wraps don't go from the fin fillet joint, around the tube to the other fin fillet. It seems short.

I marked the masking tape strip at the center with pencil. The red strip was also pencil marked at the center.

Set the red tape center over the mark on the tape and roll the ends around the tube.

Another strip of masking tape was set down for a guide.

The red strip was set down in line against the brown tape with the low end just a little beyond the curved trailing edge.

Carefully trim the red tape overhang that extends beyond the trailing edge to match the fin curve. Cut only the red trim, don't cut into the balsa fin.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 12, Decals

The forward ring is pencil marked inside for the glue lines.

Apply the glue on the pencil lines, slide down from the top with the glue lines to the sides of the forward fins outside edge.

Turn the tube so the glue contacts the outside edge of the fins.

New Way supplies two decal sheets so you've got second chances if one of your decals doesn't cooperate during transfer.

The decals are laser printed, they might be thinner than what you are used to. There is a slight texture to the aluminum paint so they could grab in the wrong position. 

Before transferring the decals onto the model, wet the position where they will be set.  

The squares decals weren't evenly spaced for a wrap around. I cut them into three pieces to get even spacing between the square segments.

The grid wrap (circles and squares) fit perfectly around the BT-50 tube.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 11, Which Paint?

I wanted to break up the overall silver on the model. There is a red nose cone and red trim, the decals are black.

I painted the large nozzle Metallic Black. Note the masking tape just above the shoulder.

I've been asked which spray paints I use, a favorite is the Rustoleum Metallics. I don't like their 2X paints and will never use the 2X Gloss White again.

The Rusto Metallic paints are a better formulation. On this build I recoated after 24 hours. Normally I'd wait 48 hours between different colors, but this paint seems to dry quicker.

The main body was painted with Rusto Bright Coat Aluminum. Actual Silver spray paint is harder to find and there really isn't that mush difference between Silver and Aluminum paints.

Here's the finished nozzle in place. It's not a full black, but almost a very dark gray. Under sunlight you can see the reflective bits throughout the black paint.

All the Rusto Metallics have shown good results. There is also a Metallic Blue available.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 10, Silver Paint & Light Sanding

Everything is painted silver except for the nose cone which is gloss red.

The silver paint shows some surface roughness and areas that required light sanding with 400 grit.

Here's another fin assembly showing the sanded areas.

The nozzle still had some molding marks. 

More sanding with 400 grit.

I'll let the paint dry for 48 hours then do another silver coat.