My Work Area - Money Saving TIPS

I don't have a dedicated build area, just the kitchen table. I'm single, so I can get away with this.

I prefer building low power so my work area can be smaller.

Before starting a new build, everything gets cleaned up and organized.

A new #11 style blade goes in my X-Acto handle. For cheap #11 style blades: CLICK HERE 

The old break-off knife tip is snapped off.

The break-off blade knife is for freeing up laser cut fins and general cutting.

The X-Acto knife is for fine shaping and cutting.

Both sanding blocks get new sandpaper. 

Estes and Du-Bro sell great aluminum blocks: CLICK HERE

One block gets 220 grit, the other gets 400 grit.

I buy self-adhesive sandpaper on a roll. It's way cheaper than purchasing the sandpaper cut to size: CLICK HERE

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Finished

Whew! This was a challenge.

Thanks go out to SCIGS30. His Rocketry Forum build pics helped with the decal placement. I didn't have a kit face card for reference

The nose cone was beautifully 3D printed by Augendoc.

There are plenty of decals on the upper side of the model.

As with many kits, decals are sparce on the underside.

The original kit had an 18" chute! Probably to keep the overhanging fins from breaking at landing.

The leading and outside fin edge decals were difficult to place. The corner lines should line up, one on top of the other.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 32, Canopy Trim Shrinkage?

I looked at the white canopy trim lines after they were fully dried. I wasn't expecting them to shrink!

It's a minor set back. I'll pull the trim and redo it with a little more length.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 31, Canopy Frame Trim

The instructions say to paint the "raised areas" of the canopy white. My home made canopy doesn't have a metal frame. I still wanted some white trim.

Instead of trying to paint even, straight lines, I cheat.

Some clear decal paper was spray painted gloss white. You could use white decal paper without the paint but the white won't be as opaque.

Some thin strips were cut.

The verticals were transferred first. 

It's a bit tricky. Make them long enough so the ends will be covered by the next piece.

The second strip goes over the top, covering the first two top ends.

I probably won't add trim to the curves sides. It would be difficult to get the decal strip to curve around the base.

A perfect clone? Nope! Clones ends up close.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 30, Canopy Front Decal

Rotate the nose cone to line up the ramjet decal lines with the wing.

The large black decal butts up against the front of the canopy. Note it overlaps the break between the nose cone shoulder and body tube.

I normally would wait for the decal to dry before cutting the joint, but I couldn't get the decal to lay flat. I was concerned it as it dried it might be lifted at the joint.

The decal was cut using a razor blade. It did lay down now. I let it dry before proceeding.

A bit of a white line showed under the cut.

A Sharpie carefully lined the shoulder and body tube edge.

The picture on the right shows no break in the black.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 29, Attaching The Canopy

The CA glue I use is the "Original" Super Glue. Two little bottles for $1.25 at the Dollar Tree store.

I use a toothpick to apply the glue around the canopy edge.

Set the canopy onto the body, centered over the decal. Tape the canopy down, tight onto the body tube. 

Dip the toothpick tip into a drop of CA glue. Let this first dip of glue dry.

Re-dip the (now sealed) toothpick in the CA drop again.

Set the wet glue toothpick into the canopy/body tube joint and drag the glue drop along the edge. Repeat until the front and rear of the canopy is glued in place.

Remove the tape and glue the sides where the tape blocked the edge.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 28, Fin Tip Decals

These fin decals are tricky! Be sure to rub and leave some water down the leading edge and sides of the fin before transferring the decal.

Set the thick black center band down the leading edge of the fin. Hold it up to the light and you can better space the center. 

Be sure the decal corner is at the corner of the fin.

When the center is positioned, roll down the sides.

Cut the top corner close to the black ink. I cut right at the black ink and it didn't run or bleed when soaked.

This is about as good as I could get the two decals to match up!

I counted 31 decals on the sheet!