Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 6, Engine Shrouds

I wanted to make the shrouds out of something a little thicker than the regular 110 lb. cardstock. I had some thin posterboard for years, it's about time to use it! It's also shinier on one side - perfect!

The templates were printed on cardstock, the posterboard would be too thick to run through the printer. Shrouds were traced onto the the posterboard with a sharp pencil. Fold lines were added.

Emboss the folds before cutting out the shroud.

I always use a un-serrated butter knife tip and a metal straightedge. 

Gently coax the folds little by little to keep the the edge clean. I did get some slight breaking of the paper fibers. More on this in the next post.

The fold was worked in over my aluminum angle, rubbing the line with a burnisher.

The right and left engine shrouds, almost ready for assembly.

There will be some adjustments when fitting to the model.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 5, Fin Grain Filling

The balsa pieces and launch lug were first filled with CWF and sanded to surface using 400 grit.

All pieces were taped down to cardboard for some spraying with filler/primer.

While the filler/primer was still wet, you can see the remaining balsa grain that should disappear after sanding.

I still had a few small spots where the grain was deep.

Some CWF was pressed on using a finger.

The pic on the right side shows the same wing after sanding to surface. The balsa is filled and sealed.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 4, Smaller Fin Fitting

The root edge of the Rudder fins is slightly longer that the outside edge.

I marked the root edges with pencil.

The hand cut engine ribs were a bit higher than the fold height on the engine shrouds.

I sanded the top down until it fit just inside the dashed lines.

Double check the length of the engine ribs when set next to the 3/8" spacing from the root edge. Sand the rear end if needed until flush.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 3, Larger Wing Fins

The straight cuts were made with my break off blade knife.

Save your curved lines for an X-Acto style #11 blade.

That rear curved cut can be sanded by wrapping some 400 grit around an engine casing.

The Estes instructions suggest rounding the trailing edges of the wing. Pay attention to the single rounded leading edge of the engine rib.

I only rounded the flat side of the trailing edge near the root edge. Rounding an inside curve is difficult and unnecessary.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 2, Engine Mount

The engine hook and Kevlar line relief notches are initially cut with a knife. 

Instead of picking out peeling out the wrap layer between the cut lines, I use diamond files to remove the recess. This makes a cleaner notch, especially on the Kevlar side. 

I don't apply a ring of glue then slide the centering ring onto it. Instead, I slide the rings on dry, apply spot glue at the joint and then smooth them. After the spot glue dries, it allows me to tighten the Kevlar wraps without the rings sliding around. Then apply full glue fillets

Note the upper ring is centered over and on top the upper bend of the engine hook. This makes a stronger mount - instead of the upper ring positioned above the upper bend of the hook.

Tighten the Kevlar wrap, then apply the glue fillet over the the Kevlar wrapped line.

An engine block wasn't included in the original kit, I added one, even with the tube top when slid against the top bend of the engine hook.

A 1/16" diameter heat shrink tube was slid down the Kevlar line and hit using the low setting from a heat gun.

Hold the heat shrink end down against the top of the upper centering ring. The after pics shows the tubing hugging tight over the Kevlar line.

Note the shrink wrap starts below the top of the engine mount tube. This protects the the low end of the Kevlar line.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 1, Parts

 

The Estes Aries SST kit had a short run, from 1984 - 1985. It was described as a "futuristic transport".

It used the PNC-50S nose cone with the Sandpiper "finlets". I have a second nose cone 3D printed by Augendoc. I'll put it to use on the only other kit to use it.

The model is BT-50 based, the length is 13.5 inches tall.

Another spare parts drawer build, other than the 3D printed nose cone.

Note: Nose Cone is same as BNC-50Y with added finlets.

1  Engine Tube            BT-20J    2.75"                     30326

1  Engine Hook           EH-2                                     35025

2  Centering Rings      AR-2050                               30164

1  Marking Guide                                                     83702

1  Body Tube               BT-50H   7.75"                    30360

1  Shock Cord             SC-1        1/8" x 21"             85730

    1  Balsa Stock             BF-1927   3" x 12" x 3/32"   32627    

1  Pattern Sheet           SP-1927   2.7" x 8.5" card    83703

 1  Launch Lug             LL-2B      2 3/8" Length       38178 

1  Plastic Nose Cone   PNC-50S 4 3/8" Length       72045

1  Parachute                PK-12A  12"                         85564

1  Shroud Line            SLT-72   72"                         38237

            6  Tape Disks              TD-3F    1/2"                        38406           

     1  Decal                       KD-1927 Red/Blk                37242   

I added a engine block, Kevlar line and heat shrink tube, not included in the original kit.

Not shown: Decals and pattern sheet. Those are still being drawn up.

Why Do I Redraw Decals & Templates?

The next project:

Why bother redrawing online scanned decals?

I do appreciate the instructions and scans at spacemodeling.org/jimz/ and at oldrocketplans.com. Sometimes I use them for initial tracings in Corel Draw.

The problem - You never know when the decals were scanned and at what resolution. Every time something is copied, original details are lost. Many scans don't include a 1" reference

measurement. Sometimes the color register is off.

Working at a print shop probably made me too picky! 

 

On the left is the name decal from the online scan.

On the right is the name set new after a font search.

Things become pixilated when copied and transferred. Here's one of the windows before and after redrawing.

These are enlargements and the rough edges are magnified. Some of the pixilation would disappear when the images are reduced.