New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 5, Balsa Fin Filling

There are three extra small forward fins. 

Only three are needed for the build.

After filling with CWF and sanding to surface - 

The outside edges of the fins were masked with a strip of tape for the filler/primer sprays.

All the fins and tubes were taped down to scrap cardboard for the filler/primer spraying.

After drying, the pieces were lifted and flipped over to spray the other side.

The long BT-50 main airframe tube was sprayed with filler/primer.

The paper towel stuffed in the end blocks any paint from getting inside the tube.
 

The same tube after sanding with 400 grit. You can see the gray primer left in the seam after what was left from the earlier CWF pass.

I do a two step fill - 

1. Brush on one coat of thinned Carpenter's Wood Filler, let dry and sand to surface. 

The surfaces are not yet sealed. CWF is water based.

2. A fairly heavy spray of filler/primer. Let dry and sand to surface using 400 grit. The filler/primer soaks in a bit and helps seal the surfaces.

You should now be ready for color coats.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 4, Balsa Fin Prepping

After removing from the laser cut balsa sheet,

here's the fin tips with the fins set side by side. The trailing edges are even.

Cut off the uneven front end square with a razor blade.

All laser cut fins are a "wedge" cut. The bottom surface cuts are wider than the top as the laser light is diffused while burning thru the balsa.

I always square up the fin edges holding the sanding block at a 90 degree angle to the flat face of the fins.

Here the sanding and squaring up is about half done. You're finished when the ash is sanded down and the lighter balsa shows across the edge. 

The fin leading and trailing edges are not rounded.

The trailing edge is cut in a round arc.

To sand it, wrap some 400 grit around an engine casing or whatever form you have that is round. I'm using a glue stick casing.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 3, Engine Mount & Shock Cords

The engine mount assembly is standard. A slip over coupler holds down the middle of the engine hook.

Here, the Kevlar line is tied beneath the upper plywood centering ring.

There isn't much space between the outer BT-50 and BT-20 engine mount tube. A larger square knot could bulge out the BT-50 tube wall.

I used an overhand knot, but rolled the Kevlar over and under the wrap 4 times. This still allows the wrap to be pulled tight and keeps the line close to the engine tube.

The wrap is set into the wet glue centering ring fillet. The loose tail is cut off and also set into the glue fillet.

The picture to the right shows the heat shrink tube slip down to the top of the ring, protecting the Kevlar line. 

The short shrink wrap is slid over the tied knot joining the elastic and Kevlar line.

Near the elastic, be careful with your heat gun - 

TIP: Using the low setting on my heat gun, the elastic started to melt!

I had to cut off the old knot and re-tie the elastic and Kevlar. I might tie an additional piece of elastic to the shorter line joined to the Kevlar.

The second time, I kept more distance between the heat gun and the heat shrink tube.

Second try was good! (Maybe that's why two pieces of tubing were included.)

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 2, Parts Of Interest

New Way now includes heat shrink tubing to protect the Kevlar shock cord line. The smaller heat shrink tube goes over the elastic shock cord and Kevlar knot. My kit included two of the smaller tubes.

On the lower left is the big nozzle. 

Lower right is the re vinyl trim tape. 

The name decals are fun!

Read vertically, you can make out the "LUNAR JUMPER" name.

On the left are the red vinyl trim cutting guides.

And - the fin marking guides.

Included in New Way kits are some pieces of 320, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. 

A short emery board and Q-tips.

New Way Lunar Jumper Build, Part 1, Parts

Here's New Way's newest kit -

The LUNAR JUMPER.

19" tall, BT-50 based, 12" parachute.

Lots of short tubes, fin details and large plastic nozzle. 

Skill Level 2
 

All the parts, more in the next post:

Estes USS Enterprise Build #1275, Finished

The picture above shows the Enterprise connected to the long "recovery probe", required for stabile flight. Note the dowel "finger" set over the top of the large disk.

This design had to be a stable flight challenge for the Estes designers. For me, it was a visual disappointment. 

The underside showing the clip on recovery probe. Painting it black doesn't camouflage the addition.

Will I ever launch it? Probably not. Even with internal plywood reinforcements it's delicate and would have recovery damage. I wouldn't want to repair cracked vacu-form plastic.

I know, the bead of glue on the radar dish is too large.

The decals ended up being a mix of originals and reprints.

To be honest - I'm glad this one is finished!

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 53, Loose Ends and "Probe"

I did my usual paint scrape of the engine hooks. 

Near the motor, that paint would blister and chip off.

On the recovery probe, the end of the engine hook was also scraped.

The Midget style nose cone gets two of the old style lead weights.

You'll need them for stability.

A SC-2 rubber shock cord is only 18" long. I replaced it with a much longer elastic cord.

I attached the 18" parachute to the shock cord, about 4" away from the screw eye.

Here's how the recovery probe clips onto the BT-20 tube at the underside of the assembly.

Slip over the coupler and lock the engine hook into the slit cut into the lower BT-20 tube.