Saturday, March 7, 2026

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Part 3, Engine Mount

The 20/50 rings were notched for the engine hook and Kevlar line.

The lower ring is on the left. I highlighted the notch with pencil.
The upper ring is on the right. Note the Kevlar notch directly opposite the engine hook  notch.


The instructions would have you position the upper ring above the top bend of the engine hook. I position the upper ring lower, over the top of the hook end making a stronger mount.

The Kevlar line is set directly opposite the engine hook.



The loose end of the Kevlar line is pressed into the upper ring glue fillet.

1/16" diameter heat shrink tubing is slid down the Kevlar and rests against the top of the ring.
Hit the heat shrink tube with a heat gun, shrinking it around the Kevlar.

Friday, March 6, 2026

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Part 2, Parts


The parts: This will be a spare parts build.
I re-drew the water slide decals. The original #1111 kit had stickers.
3/32" thick balsa
12" parachute, shroud lines will be replaced with #10 embroidery thread
I used heavy walled BT-50s, a 9.5" and 4" lengths
The original nose block (coupler) was 1" long. I'll make it a bit longer at 1.25"
Elastic shock cord, heat shrink tubing to protect the Kevlar line
A standard 20/50 engine mount, engine hook not shown
The nose cone is a "place holder" until I can get the proper BNC-50AR balsa cone.
Laminated kraft sticks (tongue depressors) were to be used for the tunnel and guidance thrusters. I ended up cutting those from 3/32" basswood.

Thursday, March 5, 2026

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Part 1, Background

In the early 1970s, Damon bought out Vashon (Freon propelled "cold power" rockets) 
and production moved to Estes in Penrose, CO. CLICK HERE
Initially, the Vashon line remained unchanged. 

In 1973, Estes started producing their own branded Freon propelled  kits, the "Cold power Convertible" line. CLICK HERE

All six designs were BT-50 based. The initial kits included RP-100 (freon based liquid propellant), a simple wooden based launcher and a conversion kit. I don't remember my kit including the launcher and conversion kit.

I bought and built the Shark, my favorite of the six choices. I launched it using the Freon motor. It seemed to be the equivalent of a B6-4.

You had to be careful with these - cold weather could effect the performance of the self-refrigerant fuel. After two anemic launches, I converted it to 18mm black powder using a 20/50 adapter.

Here's the back view of an unopened Shark kit, picture courtesy of launchlabrocketry.com.
On the right side is the black plastic hand held launch button, cable and nozzle release.

Ejection was provided by a compressed spring, held in place during boost while the motor was pressurized. On display, the extended spring made the rocket look like a broken toy.

In 1976, the cold power rocket line was reduced to the three kits shown at the top of this post. The original aluminum bodied Vashon "Valkyrie" models were gone. The Freon propellant was contributing to ozone layer depletion and global warming

In  the 1977 catalog, some original cold power convertible designs were reintroduced with 20/50 black powder motor mounts. The Scamp and Teros were back in the "NEW" kit lineup.

A close reissue of the Shark appeared as the Stiletto in 1979 (Kit #1323) using a plastic nose cone and display nozzle (type PNC-50BB) The original Shark had four fins, the Stilletto has three. This kit run lasted through 1983. My build will be a combination of the two.

Wednesday, March 4, 2026

Some Estes Kit Font Names?

I was fortunate to work in a print shop as a graphic artist doing paste-up. I also spent too many hours setting headlines on a VGC Photo Typositor. 

When redrawing some kit decals I've had to search online for fonts. A few specific fonts show up again and again in many Estes kits.

I can assume that Estes had a limited number of fonts and reused them many times. My hometown printshop had 35 different fonts to choose from.

For any builder looking to do home print decals,
here's some of the fonts Estes used in their kits:


These few kits listed certainly are not all the fonts Estes used.
Oldest kit decals probably used a generic "Futura" font.
Some logo names were hand drawn, like the Goblin or Citation Patriot.
You can download most fonts for free online - Just look for websites with names like "1001 Free Fonts".

Tuesday, March 3, 2026

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Finished



The model is taller than you would expect.

The upper payload section could be used for an altimeter. I used some masking tape on the nose cone shoulder for a tight friction fit.

The yellow adapter was glued into the white BT-50 using Fabri-tac.







If you are trying to match the face card paint, the fin mask is difficult.

Overall, the finished look is very good. 

Monday, March 2, 2026

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 16, Lower Decals


These two wiring and instrument decals go between two fins. There is no third decal on the launch lug side.








The "shield" decals go on each fin.









There are six CAUTION decals, each going on the rear of the BT-5 motor tubes.

The engine mount was finally glued in using epoxy. The slower dry gave me some time time to insure movement and alignment.
 
The marked masking tape was my depth and fin alignment line.

Sunday, March 1, 2026

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 15, Upper Decals



The roll pattern decal is shown positioned all the way against the top of the BT-55 tube. This could lead to upper edge peeling.
I'd recommend leaving a little of the clear above the upper edge.

Position the top of the decal a bit below the top of the BT-55 tube. 

The roll pattern has four black vertical boxes. How can you center four boxes over three fins? Well, you really don't. Center one box over the fin opposite the launch lug and let the wrap fall where it may.

I did a tape wrap below the decal final position marked with a pencil line directly above the fin below. This was the fin opposite the launch lug.

This centers one black box over one fin and spaces the other three boxes evenly around the body.

The TIMEWARP 00143 is set down a little to the bottom of the white tube.

TIP: Use your aluminum angle to check the alignment.