Sunday, February 28, 2021

ASP MMX Jayhawk Build, Kit Corrections Already Made

I had some concerns and was a little confused when building the A.S.P. MMX Jayhawk.
A quick email to Andy at A.S.P. got some easy answers.
I was sent a pre-production kit. Before the kit went into full production, corrections were made in the templates and decals.


On the top is the Main Fin Cutting Guide I had from the instructions.
Note the "root edges" designation and arrows.



Here's the corrected version, now in the kits.
The illustration is flipped and the "root edges" are now clear.    
This decal wrap in my kit had one of the Stars and Bars flipped. When wrapped around the body, one star ended up upside down. I simply cut off the stars and bars and turned it over.

The kits now have Stars and Bars in the correct orientation.

I've produced a few kits and can certainly understand how this happens. 
On my Odd'l Rockets F-104 Starfighter kit I left off a measurement. On the first run of kits, the instructions said to glue a cut tube XXXX" from the back end of the model.  The XXXX" was a pre-production place holder for the final measurement. 
Measurements, parts, instructions and templates can change as you go through prototypes and test flights. Producing kits (especially the instructions) takes more time than most modelers realize.

Transporting Rockets?

From the Estes Model Rockets Facebook page, 
John A. Schilling found one way to transport his rockets to the launch site.

Amazon describes the box as - 
"Classroom Keepers Poster & Roll Storage
24" H x 12 1/4" W x 12 1/4" D
Comes with a divider that can be modified to fit up to 16 storage spots

To see the listing: CLICK HERE

It looks like it can comfortably fit BT-60 models. The box is 24" high. 
You just have to be careful of fin contact with other rockets.
It is made from cardboard, some water protection might be needed on the flat bottom.

Saturday, February 27, 2021

ASP MMX Jayhawk Build, Part 4, Fin Gluing & Seam Filling

Note: I've made a correction in the previous Part 3 post regarding the fin templates.
Check Step 3 before cutting out the "wing" fins.   


One of the launch lugs was longer than the other.

I simply cut the longer one down to the length of the shorter lug.

On the left - 
This was when I noticed the outside edge of the wing was too high. It should be the height of the chevron shaped tip piece. I trimmed the leading edge down a bit so the outside edge better matched the height of the tip piece. 

Notice on the right, the leading edge of the fins were rounded. This is an optional step.




There were still some spiral seams on the body tube.
These were filled with CWF and sanded.

A shot of filler/primer and sanding followed filling the seams.
This is one of the few rockets I use CA glue to glue on the fins.
The wing tips were glued on and allowed to dry. A CA glue fillet was applied with a toothpick.
Squeeze out a drop of CA on scrap cardboard. Roll the tip of a toothpick in the glue drop and transfer onto the joint.
 

The small nose cone fin was slid in place and glued with medium CA.

Friday, February 26, 2021

ASP MMX Jayhawk Build, Part 3, Cutting Out The Fins

CORRECTION
On the template, the outside of the left and right dashed lines says "Root Edge". I took that to mean it was the root edge of the fins. I cut out the wrong part of the fin template. Calling the edge of the template the "Root Edge" was a bit confusing.
My knife blade is set on the center triangles - cut out the two solid line triangle pieces in the center.

The Root Edge markings have been corrected in the production kits. My kit was pre-production.


Here's the wing tips - 
The instructions say to use double sided tape. I taped the flat plastic down then taped the template on top of that.
I scored the plastic about halfway through, removed the template and finished the cut. 

When I set the wing tip on the outside edge of the wing fin I realized I should have cut out the larger center wing template. 

This is the little nose cone fin piece.

I cut out the pattern and traced the cut out with a pencil on the smaller piece of plastic sheet.



The dry fit in the nose cone slot is pretty good.

There are some small gaps at the top and bottom. I can fill that with some CA glue on a toothpick tip.

Thursday, February 25, 2021

B8 Engines Coming Soon?

I got my first packs of the new C5-3 engines.
These came with igniters and plugs. 
I wasn't familiar with the light blue plugs, it's been a few years since the Super C engines have been made.

Note the end tag says "B8 and C5". I would think the B8 engines are coming soon -  

ASP MMX Jayhawk Build, Part 2, Parts Prep




Before sliding the couplers into the tubes -

Round off the edges with some 400 grit sandpaper.
The rounded coupler won't fold in the edge of the body tubes.





On the left is the tube ends butted against each other. Small tubes are difficult to cut square.
Square up the tubes with 400 grit on a sanding block.

On the right are the same tubes after sanding and truing them up.
The marking guide matches up and fits the little tube diameter!
Thanks A.S.P.!

Here's the kit supplied small plastic angle to mark the body tubes for the fin locations.

Hang onto the marking angle - you might need it for a future MMX build.


The base and shoulder of the nose cone needed a little squaring up.
Not a big deal - the outside surface was smooth and the slot cut very clean.

Wednesday, February 24, 2021

ASP MMX Jayhawk Build, Part 1, Parts



On the right is my original ASP MicroMaxx Jayhawk. 
I've successfully launched it many times.
It is truly a micro model rocket.

Andy (from A.S.P.) sent me a new version of the kit.
There are some improvements.

On the far left is a small plastic right angle piece, used like a larger aluminum angle to mark the body tube for fin placement.
The white strips are sheet plastic fin material. No filling needed.
The skinny white piece is a half round used to make the tunnel.
Two pieces of body tube. Above that is the solid plastic nose cone.
There are two long couplers. One is used as a coupler. The other is cut for an engine block and gluing spacer.

Notice the pre-cut slot through the nose cone.
There are two short lengths of launch lug.
Two fishing weights to put the C/G forward.

The decals have white ink under the stars and bars!
A length of Mylar streamer material is included. If used, this would have to be cut down to fit in the body tube. 





The instructions are good with plenty of descriptive copy.