Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 14, White (Under) Decals TIP

On the decal sheet are star and bar outlines. These will be the white decal layer under the blue and red Air Force logo.

The dashed blue border lines are a hair smaller than the blue border on the Air Force logo overlay decal.

The underlay decal is sprayed with gloss white paint. This seals the surface, no clear coat is necessary for a water transfer. 

You should still be able to see the dashed cut lines.

Cut out the white sprayed decals. 

Soak and transfer the white underlay decal.

I'm rolling a damp Q-tip over the paint thickness "decal" to smooth it out and remove excess water and air bubbles. Let dry.

The white decal on the model gets some water lightly rubbed on with a finger - leave wet. This water acts as a lubricant for the overlay positioning.

Soak and transfer the red and blue Air Force logo. In the right side picture it isn't in position yet.

After sliding around a bit, you can center and cover any white edges with the overlay decal. Use the rolled damp Q-tip again to smooth it out.

This white paint decal idea works well in some applications. It certainly looks better than the orange paint showing through the clear areas.

Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 13, Orange Paint

Finally, a dry afternoon for painting!

The model is an overall orange with a black tip of the nose cone.

Most of the prep was worth it, I had two areas of concern - 

The orange Ace enamel was a bit runny.

The upper edge of this fin had a run. I might wait for it to dry, sand and spray just the outside of the small fin. 

Dog hair! 

It had to happen sooner or later.

Look close and you'll see the fine line hair.

The finlet isn't a clean orange, some of the gray plastic is showing through from some earlier sanding. I may mask this finlet, spray white then orange again.

Improvements In Odd'l Rockets Kits

While I wait for drier weather to paint the Sandpiper -

Here's two improvements in the Odd'l Rockets 104 Starfighter kit.

3D printing has come a LONG way!

This is the PNC-24D nose cone from Apogee. Resin printed and very smooth. The plastic color is a light gray, the older cones were bright yellow. The gray is much easier to cover with lighter spray paints. Here is one coat of gloss white.

The intakes of the F-104 kit were split balsa nose cones.
While I pre-split the nose cones, the builder was still required to sand the inside contour to fit tight against the body tube. 

The new intakes are resin 3D printed by reallykoostuff.com 

Light gray, smooth and the underside is curved to fit the heavy wall BT-50 tube.

Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 12, Ends & Edges, Decals

While waiting two days for the white undercoats to dry.

I doubt I'll get to the orange paint today, it's Father's Day. I'll be spending the afternoon with my daughters. 

My eighth grade woodshop teacher told me: "Anybody can get a table top smooth. A craftsman will focus on the ends and edges."

That statement stayed with me.

One thing I usually do is round out the cut ends of the launch lug. Rotate a sharpened dowel in the lug ends without flaring out the diameter.
 

I re-drew the kit decals. They'll be available soon to Patreon subscribers.

At the bottom are outline templates for cutting out white decals that go underneath the stars and bars. 

Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 11, Screw Eye & Nose Cone Pattern

I picked the nose cone shoulder with the screw eye attachment.

The hole did need enlargement using a small file.

Before I can release the decals and templates, I have to print and test the size and fit.

I printed and cut out the nose cone decor pattern over the nose cone and winglets. The black paint line is at the bottom edge of the pattern. 

The one I drew up was a little too long. The lower edge should be just above the halfway point of the finlets root edge.

I made adjustments to the template page.

Here's the templates, as close as I could get them.

These and the decals will be available to Patreon subscribers after I place the decals on the painted model.

Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 10, Sanding The White Undercoats

After the first white undercoat,

fine sanding with 400 grit showed there was still some uneven fillets.

The inside fillets are a little hard to reach.

This one showed a bubble after sanding. More glue - 

This had to be the best fitting shroud I've ever done!

It was surprising, I didn't have a shroud tool, the one at payloadbay.com wasn't available. Those tools are now at jonrocket.com.

Smooth, with very little filling.

The 3D printed nose cone turned out very smooth!

Initially, there were very subtle ridges, but those sanded out. One shot of filler/primer and sanding got it ready for color.

Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389, Part 9, Fillets Down The Long Launch Lug

Sometimes I don't bother with launch lug fillets, it's a pain dealing with the air bubbles when the glue dries.

To the left is the first glue fillet still wet, just smoothed with a finger. Let the glue totally dry.

Here's the same fillet, dried with air pockets. Another glue fillet will fill some of the open holes.

It'll take three or four fillets to fill and smooth the glue line.

After three fillets the inside fill is looks smooth. 

You can lightly sand the fillet to further smooth before paint.

This launch lug/tunnel reminds me of the old Estes Wac Corporal kit. The long lug on the Wac Corporal is concealed with balsa strip sides.