Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 5, Upper Centering Ring

Here's the upper laminated centering ring,

glued 1/2" from the bottom of the BT-5 tube cluster.

The instructions say to add glue fillets down and between the three tubes.

TIP: I wouldn't do this, it's a long, deep joint. When the glue dries you'll have bubbles and an uneven fillet.

I used a few drops of glue to fill the small center gap. This will block any ejection charge escape.

Years back we used "tissue/glue putty" to fill gaps like this. Tissue/glue putty is a mix of glue and tissue torn into very small pieces. It makes a strong gap filler.

This gap is small, if it were larger I'd make up some tissue/glue putty.

To read more about this gap filler: CLICK HERE 

This top and bottom glue fill also strengthens the mount.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 4, Centering Ring Laminates

The center triangle of the centering rings will probably break off. There's not much to hold it in the center.

I'll show how to block the hole (and the ejection charge) in the next post.

When laminating the two sets of two rings, 

use one of the BT-5 tubes to check the alignment.

Don't glue the tube to the rings (yet), use the tube to be sure all three holes are lined up.

The instructions suggest sliding the ring down from the top into a glue ring.

For a cleaner build and less visible glue -  

I slid the centering ring up from the bottom pushing the glue ring up. It's a cleaner visual outside joint on the finished model.. 

You don't have to use much glue, you can always add a glue fillet later.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 3, Engine Blocks

Jim Flis (Fliskits) gets credit for this engine block setting idea calling it the "Block and Tackle.".

TIP: The mini motors (friction fitted) extend 1/4" out the rear of the BT-5 tubes. 

A 1/4" strip of masking tape is wrapped around and even with the end of the yellow spacer tube. 

This tape ring stops when it hits the end of the tube. 

All three engine block will be at the same depth.

The instructions the engine block glue line at 1" inside the tubes.

I'd recommend using a dowel pencil marked at 1 1/4" to apply a ring of glue inside the tube.

Apply the glue ring, slide in the engine block. Use the taped yellow tube to set the ring depth.

The three BT-5 tubes are ready for the centering rings.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 2, Paint Plan & Engine Tubes Fill

Planning ahead!

If you want to paint the rocket in the face card colors, paint the build in sections before gluing it all together.

The BT-5 cluster tubes are yellow and would be difficult to paint if glued into the gray BT-55 tube.

That yellow adapter could be painted before gluing into the white BT-50. Same goes for the gray nose cone. Paint them before gluing together and get instant "masks" or color separations. 

_____________________________________________________________________

The lower centering ring is glued 2" down from the tops of the BT-5 motor tubes. I filled the tube seams below that.

The seams were shallow, here you can see the pencil lines where they could be felt.

CWF was used to fill the bulk of the seams and sanded smooth.

The upper 2" (glue area) was masked off and the low end sprayed with filler/primer. Sanding this down filled any remaining seams.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 1, Parts

A new mini-motor cluster rocket!

I recently picked up a bunch 13mm motors. This model would be a good way to burn through some black powder.

The Estes Time Warp has three BT-5s motor mount tubes (left side, in yellow) joined to a BT-55 (gray tube). A 55/50 adapter joins to a heavy walled BT-50 (unusual) and finally the gray nose cone.

The parts of interest:

Mentioned earlier, a heavy wall BT-50

The new self-adhesive Estes shock cord mount

A laser cut 3/32" thick balsa sheet

The four centering rings - 

The pairs are laminated to make two thicker rings.

That small center triangle is very close with not much to hold it onto the assembly.

No Posts? I'm Camping!

Sorry, no posts for the next three days.

I'm going camping with Dakota the Blue Merle Sheltie.

A new build will start on Friday, February 13.

New Hole Punch

I just got a new hole punch. 

The punches get dull after a few years of use and it's hard to find replacement parts that fit. This is heavier duty and replacement hole punch tubes are included!

Also in the box: A wrench to tighten or change the cutting tubes and a 6" long metal ruler. 

To see it, CLICK HERE

For $13.99 it's probably the best available.

Centering Rings: I use hole punches for engine hook relief notches in centering rings and launch lug holes.

Launch Lugs: Rotated to the largest punch (4.5 mm), it's a perfect friction fit for sliding in a 1/8" diameter launch lug.

Parachutes: Instead of tearing holes with a pencil tip, the smallest diameter punch works perfectly for shroud line holes in a plastic parachute. 

TIP: Be sure to use thin cardstock under the thin chute material for a clean punch. 

Rotary punches are handy for belt holes and many other household uses.