Thursday, August 11, 2022

New Music Room Floor

Between Blogging and Rocket Builds, 
It took an hour a day over ten days to lay a new floor in my Music Room.
Another house project done! 
I installed the red oak floor 15 years ago (top of first picture) when I had a red/brown chair and mahogany digital piano. 


NOW - 
Mid gray floor to match the newer black piano, gray chair and original black and white comic art on the wall. A perfect install? No, but a much better fit and finish compared to the first time around!
Locking the wood slats together isn't hard and sort of fun. Fitting the "T" molding and quarter round baseboard bead is what takes the most time.

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 16, More Fins & Glue Fillets


The cardstock "U" angle guide is used to line up the two "T" pieces.
I suggested to Estes the angle guides might have a letter that matches the letter name of the balsa pieces. Example - "The cardstock "TT" angle guide is used to line up the two "T" pieces. 
It would be less confusing. 

TIP: To keep the glue squeeze out to a minimum and get a more even glued joint - 
Lay down a line of glue, shown on the left.

Right side picture: With the side of a finger, wipe down both sides of the fin evening out and leaving a consistent glue line down the center.

You could also smooth the fillet by holding your thump and index fingers together (in a "pinch") and running them down the glued root edge evening out and centering the glue line - both sides at once.


It is difficult to apply a glue fillet along the inside root edge of the "T" pieces. 

Again - do half the fillet line and smooth forward.
Then apply glue to the rear half and smooth to the rear.

Wednesday, August 10, 2022

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 15, Gluing On The Engine Housings

Mentioned earlier - 
I sanded off the tabs (on the engine housings) and left the balsa notch slots in the wings. I thought it would be easier than filling the low tabs slots later.

This shows the top surface of the wing. Note the gluing areas for the vertical fins are sanded through the primer, down to the (glue soluble) CWF filler.
The inset picture shows the area near a fin root edge sanded down just through the primer for a stronger wood glue bond and fillet.


The engine housing assemblies were glued in place and the joints filleted.
The bottom of the wing assemblies had already got some early shots of Gloss White before gluing onto the body tube to be sure the fillets were smooth. Any glue fillet ridges were lightly sanded and paint shot again.
In the above picture the wing has been glued on. The support jigs are under the wing and the smaller forward stand under the body tube.

I continued the pencil lines around the inside end of the body tube. With the wing in place, the pencil line down the body tube would be covered. 
TIP: The wing and forward strake long fillets should be done in two passes. This prevents the glue bead from pooling up and getting too wide under you smoothing finger.

Lay a line of glue down from the center of the root edge and smooth to the rear. Lay down a second, forward line of glue down the remaining 1/2 of the root edge and smooth to the front.

Tuesday, August 9, 2022

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 14, Gluing On The Glider Wing


Mentioned earlier - the glider marking guide was too large. This was a pre-production kit, I'm sure corrections were made.

I made another one out of some copy paper. It's simple, the tube is marked twice on opposite sides of the tube.


I had already filled and primed the balsa pieces.

Some 320 grit was wrapped around a Q-tip and the center gluing area had the primer sanded down to the CWF - no lower. Just remove the gray primer.
This is all the glue I used to adhere the wing to the tube. I didn't want glue to be pushed out and seen on the finished model. 
TIP: Don't attempt to apply fillets into the tight wing/tube joint. You'll end up with bubbles and too many glue applications trying to get rid of them.



Earlier I had extended the pencil line inside the tube for alignment with the wing joint.








The tip of the wing seam aligns with the pencil line running down the tube.

Monday, August 8, 2022

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 13, Fitting The Nozzle Ring



Well
- the green centering ring was loose in the BT-50 glider tube.
Normally I'd build up the outside diameter with a ring of glue, but I didn't want a open gap between the tube and ring. 

I built up the ring with a wrap of copy paper.
The strip was 1/4" wide x 4 1/8" long.


Use a glue stick to apply the band of paper. Wood glue is too wet and could make a sloppy wrap.
Here's the built up ring with a much better fit.

TIP: Note the inside edge of the ring is a bit wide and rolled in over the edge for an easier slide into the body tube.
Those two dots indicate this is the second of three builds.

I won't glue the glider nozzle in until after the inside surfaces are painted black.

Sunday, August 7, 2022

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 12, Glider Nozzle Shroud Gluing

I don't put glue on area marked TAB - 
TIP: Instead I place the glue inside the other straight edge. shown by the shaded area in the left side picture.
If just a skin of glue is spread out to the flat edge you shouldn't find any glue squeezed outside the finished shroud.


Have two clean dowels ready.
Set and align the tab. Place the shroud over the larger dowel. Press and roll the second dowel over the tab area.

Check the roundness of the nozzle and use the dowels to shape if needed.


A narrow line of glue is set along the inside of the 20/50 ring. 

Center and lightly press onto the nozzle shroud.

Saturday, August 6, 2022

Estes Super Orbital Transport Build, Kit #7314, Part 11, Glider Nozzle Shroud Forming

The flat outside face of this 20/50 nozzle support ring will visible on the finished model, even with the end of the BT-50 Orbiter body.
Sand the outside face smooth with 400 grit on a block.

TIP: You can "seal" the ring face with a light coat of wood glue and lightly sand again when dry. Sealing a rough surface like this gives you a more even paint coverage. The paint won't soak in if the surface is sealed.

TIP: As I always recommend, scan and make a few practice copies of the shroud. Form a few and pick the best one for the build.

Cut the flat sides with a straightedge and knife. Cut the rounded sides with scissors for a smoother arc.

TIP: Run a fingertip over the curved sides and you'll probably reel some high and low spots. Run some 400 grit over the sides to smooth them out.

Pre-form the shroud in the heel of your hand with a clean dowel.
Press into the shroud with the dowel in an "arc" shape shown by the arrows.

You might need a little more pressure forming at the ends to get a complete full circle shape.