Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 28, Main Body Decals

Where you can, cut the decals close to the ink like on the "B" Aerojet General and "C" S/G stickers. 

The sticker thickness and clear border won't be as noticeable after spraying on the dull coat.

The long name decal is cut just outside the top and bottom ink.

The long ASTROBEE D ADD 010 decal is not at scale length. You can't set it at the 21.5" measurement from the rear and be able to cut it through the center of the B in Astrobee.

I set mine to be cut down the clear stencil line opening.

Wet the decal after peeling off the backing. Wet the body tube where the decal will sit for easier repositioning.

The C/G decal is set directly below the vertical line on the "D".

Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 27, Setting The Screw Stickers

Note: These are not water slide decals but peel and stick. 

I rub some water onto the body tube while the sticker sits on my knife edge in a bowl of water. The water doesn't let the sticker initially grab and allows for repositioning.  

The start / finish joint of the screw strips didn't end up perfectly spaced. The start / finish of the strip is in line with the launch lug and on the back side of the model whether on display or on the launcher.

The screw lines are in place,

Now tackle the screw plates and valve sticker.

The template is slid down while still lined up with fin "A".

The piece of tape has pencil marks for alignment of the sides. The low edge of the tape is the top of the sticker position.

Here's all the upper stickers in place.

When the glossy stickers are all in position, the shiny paint and stickers will get a shot of clear dull coat.

Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 26, Ready For The Screw Stickers

There is a choice of the "Flight" version with screw heads around the upper section or

The "Launch" version has the self adhesive aluminum band and forward lug.

These pictures will show the Flight version with the three bands of screws. The Launch version will follow. 

You are supplied with a wrap around sticker placement guide for the Flight version.

Note the spacing, how close the screws are to the color separation line. Refer the guide and cut the clear border spacing closer or farther from the outside edge of the printed screws. 

The wrap around placement template almost made it around the tube. Not a perfect match.

Pick one of the fins as the "A" alignment fin, opposite the launch lug. It won't be exactly opposite the launch lug because the "ASTROBEE D ADD 010" sticker is directly above the leading edge of the "A" reference fin, not centered between two fins. There is a "A" line on the upper screw placement template. Be sure the launch lugs aren't in line with the upper antenna housings.

Getting ready to place the line of screws towards the top right.

I slid the template up or down to set the screw strips while being sure the "A" fin is in alignment with the placement guide.

Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 25, Rear Centering Ring

With the TTW tabs locked into the fin lock rings, the body tube is squeezed in on four sides.

The rear centering ring is slid over the engine mount tube and down against the back of the TTW tabs.

To make the slide in easier, 

I lightly sanded the edge of the ring on one side to slip over the engine mount tube.

It took some coaxing - 

But I got the ring all the way over, in and against the TTW tabs. 

There is still a slight distortion of the round main airframe tube.

A wood glue fillet was applied drop by drop using a Q-tip applicator. Apply a drop of glue on a Q-tip, place the drop and smooth it out using the same Q-tip.

Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 24, Gluing In The Fins

The fins are glued into the body tube slots and fin lock tabs.

Apply medium CA down the foot edges and onto the edge of the tab rood edge that will contact the engine mount tube. Keep the glue towards the middle of the fin lock tabs. This will prevent squeeze out when the fin is snapped into the fin lock tabs.

Here's the fin assembly all locked in place.

The instructions recommend applying glue into the rear root edge joint. But that's quite a reach -

TIP: You can get CA glue into the back of the fin lock by running a drip of CA onto and down a toothpick.

Place the toothpick tip into the root edge. Drip the glue down onto the toothpick and it will run down into the joint.

Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 23, Engine Mount Positioning

The pre-cut fin slots are removed before the engine mount.

TIP: Don't attempt to push the slot pieces inside the tube. They'll get stuck on remaining fibers and hang up inside. Cut and lift them from the outside.

Carefully remove any remaining masking tape left from the inside of the tube edge. Lift carefully so you don't pull up any Kraft paper wraps.

The engine mount is slid in place.

Here you can see the upper centering ring a little low, below the top of the fin slot. It'll have to be slid up until the ring bottom is even with the upper end of the slot.

Looking inside from the top - 

Turn the engine mount until the fin lock tabs are in line with the slots.

The mount isn't glued in yet, for now it is locked in place by the fin tabs. The TTW fin tabs are glued to the engine mount. There is CA glue applied to the root edges of the fins before clicking them into place. (See next post.)

Enerjet by Aerotech, Astrobee D Build, Part 22, Coupler Gluing

Here's the directions to glue in the tube coupler.

While the model is constructed using medium CA glue - 

I'd recommend using epoxy for gluing in the coupler.

If you don't have experience using two-part Epoxy glue:

1. Wear gloves, you might be allergic or over time develop a epoxy skin reaction.

2. Parts (like couplers) glued using epoxy can slide before it sets up. Slide the coupler in up to the 3" pencil mark, but check back every few minutes while it dries. If drying vertically, the coupler/tube assembly could slide and lock up in the wrong position.

I used a rolled up grocery bag to keep the shock cord inside and out of the way.

Epoxy was mixed and applied inside the upper tube so any excess would stay inside and not be squeezed out onto the coupler.

The coupler is slid in and turned while sliding it up to the 3" pencil line. 

Turning the coupler spreads the glue evenly and makes a smooth fillet bead at the top inside edge of the coupler.