Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 10, Forming The Fairings

Start the cone form by rolling the fairing in the heel of your hand.

Roll the dowel in an arc putting a slight curve into the cardstock.

You'll have to take it slow or creases could form in the fairing cardstock. 

Continue tightening the arc curve over steam, then roll over the sharpened dowel again.

Put some water over medium heat. Let the cardstock absorb some of the water vapor. Pinch the cardstock over the sharpened dowel.

The curve will have to be tight to look correct on the finished model.

Hold the fairing over the dowel as the cardstock dries. This will take a few minutes.

On the right notice the curve of the lowest fairing. It's a little tighter than a half circle.

The previously folded glue tabs will have to be re-bent after forming the conical fairings.

Slits are cut under the sides of the shroud formers for the fairing glue tabs. The slits don't go too deep, just long enough for the width of the glue tabs.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 9, Forming The Fairings

The instructions say to form the fin fairings by rolling them around a sharpened pencil. I sharpened a larger 5/8" dowel. I would think the pencil would be too narrow.

I tried to "roll" a  first test fairing (I printed extras) around the sharpened dowel. This is going to require some extra step for a smooth cone shape - folding the glue tabs first.

The glue tabs are narrow. Trying to crease them after forming the cone would be difficult. 

I went ahead an embossed the line with the smooth tip of a butter knife, as originally shown in the old Estes Saturn 1B instructions.

The folds were creased using smooth pliers.

The sharp fold was made by rolling over the edge with a smaller smooth dowel.

The rounded bottom of the skirt hasn't been cut on this first fairing yet.

Here's all four fairings with the glue tabs folded under.

They are ready for "coning" and shaping in the next post.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 8, Prepping The Tunnel Dowels

The back side of the WD-2 dowels need to be sanded flat to glue onto the body tube. This can be difficult, the dowel will want to roll.

Mark a straight line down the length of the dowel using the side of the pencil point. Facing up, this will be your straight line reference as you sand off then re-draw the pencil line until the dowel length is half.

Using 220 grit on a block - 

As you sand back and forth, the pencil line will be removed. Remark the line and continue to sand until you have a crescent half circle.

TIP: It's easier to sand from the mid point to the end. Redraw the pencil line. Flip the dowel (still pencil line up) and sand the pencil line on the other side.

Here's the before and after. 

This operation is tricky - the dowel is only 1/12" diameter.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 7, Cutting Out The Fins

The fin pattern is taped down, face up on the cutting board.

The clear fin material is taped on top.

Using a straightedge and sharp knife - 

Cut and score the clear material about 1/2 the way through.

Flex the material back and forth at the cut lines. The cut line should crack.

I used small, smooth faced pliers on some lines that weren't wide enough to grasp with my fingers.

Run a sanding block over the edges to clean and square them up.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 6, Shroud Formers

The crescent shaped piece is the shroud former pattern.

Set the inside edge on the card the 20/60 rings came from. Trace with pencil.

Cut with a sharp new blade.

The area between the "A" marks is scraped for better adhesion.

On the right, the shroud former is glued onto the edge. I used my sanding block to even up the face of the former and tube edge.

Here's the four shroud formers in place, almost ready for the fairings.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 5, Cutting The Fin Slots

I used a new blade and my aluminum angle to cut the fin slots.

The masking tape wraps made it easier to see the start and stop points.

After the initial scoring the cuts were about half way through the tube walls.

I thought I was cutting on the lines. The slots ended up too wide. The fin root fit was too loose for me.

I got another BT-60 tube out of my spare parts.

This new tube needed seam filling with CWF then filler/primer.
 

Two of the four fin slots had a good fit around the clear fin material.

The other two slots were still too loose!

I had to get another length of tube, mark and cut the slots a third time!

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 4, Marking The Fin Slots

The instructions have you glue in the engine mount then cut the fin slots. You are warned to "cut lightly" because the clear tube is underneath.

I decided to cut the slots before gluing in the engine mount. It takes some pressure to cut fin slots.

Here's how the kit marking guide fit the tube.

GOTCHA: The ends did not fully meet.

Notice the faint pencil lines above the cardstock mount. After marking for the fins, I rotate the guide 90 degrees to see if the four fin spacing is correct. That pencil line to the right is off by almost 1/8"!

I went to payloadbay.com and printed off a marking guide, four fins on a BT-60 tube. This was wrapped and the four fin positions marked.

The original kit marking guide was wrapped on again, and each individual fin was marked for the fairings. 

The kit guide had to be slightly rotated to each correct fin line to mark the A fairing locations.