Disappointed - Badly Done 3D Print!

I want to build a Estes Sandpiper, Kit #1389. It requires the plastic PNC-50S nose cone with the "finlets" on the side like the larger Jayhawk.

I didn't want to pay a premium for an old unbuilt kit. After having some beautiful 3D parts made for the recent Centuri Skylab build, I decided to have one of the online 3D printers make the nose cone for me.

After a search, I found Jack Hydrazine had submitted 3D files for the PNC-50S nose cone to thingverse.com. Thanks Jack! The hard work is already done . . .

After too many text messages, and a assurance that the sizing was correct, I used PayPal funds to pay for the nose cones. Two nose cones and two bases for $18.00

On the right is what I received. The outside diameter is only .60". It should have been larger, at .976" diameter to fit a BT-50.

Here's a closeup, check out the ridges.  

The finlet trailing edges are rough, looks like my dog chewed on them.

I'm not mentioning the vendor name yet - I'll give them a chance to correct the mistakes.

Micro-Maxx Estes Fat Boy, Part 6, Fin Grain & Body Tube Seam Fill

Before printing the decal (and wasting a decal paper sheet)

A test sheet was printed on 20 lb. copy paper to check the fin decal sizes.

These are a tight fit with an even border around the custom drawn letters.

The fit seemed good and the water slide decals were printed.

Here's the fins after a CWF fill and sand with 400 grit.

Filler/primer spray follows then more sanding to surface with 400 grit.

The fin gluing line had the filler/primer scraped off.

Filler/primer seals the surface. Wood glues won't stick as well on a sealed surface.

After scraping, redraw the root edge pencil lines.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 42, Painting The Details

The raised, thick cardstock rectangles should have been painted the darker gray and then glued on the model. 

These aren't difficult to mask now, it's just some extra work that could have been avoided if I'd planned ahead!

The rectangles were outlined with Sharpie inked Scotch tape.

Brown tape widened the mask,

Plastic grocery bags covered the rest of the model.

With the masks removed there is very little touchup needed.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 41, Painting The Impulse Engine Details

I'm not good at hand painting. This light gray impulse engine has straight lines and plenty of curves. I decided to mask and spray.

Here's the top - using many small piece of Sharpie marked Scotch tape.

The view from the bottom.

The thin mask border coverage is widened using brown tape.

Press a Q-tip around the edges to (hopefully) seal them.

A plastic grocery bag covered the rest.

After the tape was pulled - 

As expected, there was touchups.

The final look came out okay.
 

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 40, Repainting The Propulsion Caps

I'll be bouncing around two different builds for a bit -

Here's the instruction illustration, the shaded area designated "dark gray". The caps are actually a lighter gray.

I first tried Ace Machinery Gray, but it was too dark!

I repainted it using Ace Light Gray. Now it is much closer to the color shown in the original T.V. model displayed at the Smithsonian.

Those raised rear rectangles (see the instruction drawing above) should have been painted off the model to avoid another mask.

The elevator was hand painted light gray.

The port side running light was painted red. I don't have any green paint so the starboard side light will have to wait.

Micro-Maxx Estes Fat Boy, Part 4, Nose Cone Plug

I didn't have a shoulder base for the old plastic nose cone.

Using the same material as the centering rings, trace around shoulder end of the nose cone with a sharp pencil.

Cut just inside the pencil line with scissors.

Round out the base with 220 grit on a block.

Sand, check the fit and sand some more until you get a slip fit.

Glue a reinforcement strip to the inside.

Punch two small holes for shock cord attachment.

Tie a short piece of elastic with a square knot.

The plug is set just under the edge of the shoulder base. By insetting the plug under the edge allows you to add a glue fillet.

The glue fillet was made with Fabri-tac glue.

Micro-Maxx Estes Fat Boy, Part 2, Centering Ring Fit

Left side picture:

Two uneven, rough cut rings stacked for gang sanding to fit.

Right side picture:

A 1/4" diameter dowel was slipped in for strength while sanding the ring sides even

Sand, test fit and sand some more until you get a good friction fit in the BT-20 tube.

The finished mount with a MMX motor slipped inside to check the position of the engine block slid in from the top.

The finished mount will be glued in with the motor extended a little beyond the edge of the BT-20 tube.