Estes Mini Arcas, #2441, Part 1, Parts

Here's a newer one from Estes.

A larger BT-55 Arcas kit was produced by Estes from 1972-1973.

This "mini" motor version is BT-20 based with streamer recovery.

Parts are of good quality.

The streamer is 2" x 24" chrome Mylar.

To see the instructions: CLICK HERE

The balsa sheet is 1/16" thick.

The small laser cut pieces are the fin supports. They are tiny!

Only one cardstock shroud is supplied. 

More on that later - 

What Does This Have To Do With Rocketry?

It doesn't have much to do with rockets!

Still, a fascinating look at a pedal car restoration.

You think some rocket repairs are complicated?

Worth a watch - CLICK HERE

I'm Camping!

Sorry, no posts for the next three days - 

I'll be camping (with Dakota) at the Lake Manatee State Park in Bradenton, FL.

Posts should be back to normal this Saturday . . .

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Finished

Classic and clean, a favorite from my teen years.

No masking, just paint it gloss white.

The decals don't overpower the design.

Mentioned earlier,

The fin decals were borrowed from the Interceptor kit.

The mid section with the USAF logo decals.

The temporary nose cone - 

A BNC-50AR is on order through erockets.biz.

Note the tiny nozzle decals.

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Part 11, Tiny Thruster Decals

If you've ever tried to position those tiny camera targets in the Estes Saturn V kit, you'll wish they provided a few extras. These little decals magically disappear after you think they are in position. You'll find them sticking to a finger or in your lap!

This is one reason why I draw up and print more decals than I need. Some extras are used for "soak" time testing. Others are duplicated when I think there could be a problem.

There is two sets of four thruster ovals on the Shark decal PDF.

The instructions say to draw the thrusters with ink. I wanted a cleaner, consistent shape than what could be drawn by hand.

The thruster decals are small!

Use tweezers to hold them. Don't let the decals sink to the bottom of the soaking water. Float them on the surface as they soak.

After the decal set in and dries, 

apply some Future clear acrylic using a Q-tip.

I ended up using all eight decals to get four properly placed.

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Part 10, Low Position Decals

The red, white and blue fin decals go on both sides of one fin. Check the fin decal in relation to the tunnel positions in the instructions.

 

Trim the top and bottom of the fin decals close to the ink. You don't want clear border extending beyond the rounded fin edge.

The "ARMED" decals are set above the top of the fins. Do your best to visually center them between the fins.

The black roll pattern wrap is set above the upper ARMED decal. Wet the body tube before setting the decal down. You'll want a slippery surface to allow movement when lining up both ends of the decal.

Estes Shark #1111, Build, Part 9, Smooth Fillet Areas?

Occasionally I've been asked how I get smooth fillets. "Fine Sanding!" 

After the first white undercoats, closely examine the reflection of your fillet areas under a bright light.

   

Even though you've carefully smoothed a glue fillet, there will be streaks and lumps.

Wood glue actually sands pretty easily using 400 (or finer) grit. Try to sand just the raised glue. You'll end up with something like what is shown at the left.

The area between the tunnel and small forward fins was tight and difficult to smooth out with sandpaper.

Here's what that looked like after sanding the undercoat and glue lumps.

Another white undercoat follows.

Check under sunlight and the areas around the fillets should be smoother. You might need yet another undercoat and very light sanding before the final "wet" gloss coat.

On the left is a good example of smooth fillets.

The same area around the tunnel is much better.

No masking, just an overall gloss white.

Ready for decals!