Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 21, Painting The Lower Body

The instructions imply that the model is painted after the wraps are glued on. 

The masking tape could easily tear and lift the paper wraps! 

I decided to paint the lower black rectangle roll patterns before gluing on the paper wraps.

On the left, the white areas are masked off for the black spray.

On the right, the lower fairing is masked for the silver to be added later.

The upper body is masked and beneath the body so no paint can get into the engine mount area.

The tape is lifted and the black areas remain. I will have some touch ups to do!

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 20, Fitting The Wraps

As usual,

I scanned the wrap sheet to have some backups.

The #1 wrap doesn't meet up around the short BT-52 tube!

I did pre-paint the tube. I know that does add to the outside diameter and could effect the fit.

But, wrap #4 does fit and the ends meet around the BT-60 main tube. 

This tube was also seam filled and painted white.

The #2 wrap didn't match up when wrapped around the balsa adapter.

The instructions do say: "Sand the balsa until the wrap fits perfectly."

I had to sand off the paint and into the filler to get a close fit.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 19, The Structural Skirt

I had scanned and printed extras on 110 lb. stock. Good thing I did!

The structural skirt is small and difficult to cut out and form. It took three tries to get a decent piece.

The first try was cut out with scissors, that inside arc cut was too small. The next two skirts were cut using a new blade knife.

The larger outside arc was cut with scissors.

Any high points were rounded off with 400 grit on the block.

A sharped point dowel was used to form the skirt before gluing.

Using very little glue, the tab was held shut with smooth tweezers.

The skirt was slid down onto the top of the the tower.

The seam line was rotated over the one corner of the tower to be less noticeable.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 18, The "Tower"

I'd recommend embossing fold lines before cutting out the tower.

I used the tip of a non serrated butter knife and straightedge to "line" the folds.

Form the tower into a box shape.

Make the folds sharp.

It takes very little glue to adhere the glue tab.

Hold the joint firm with tweezers as the glue dries.

The tower is slide down over the escape motor body.

Next up - the structural skirt.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 17, The Escape Motor

The escape motor is a 1/8" diameter launch lug.

The extended tip is cut at the mid point, marked here with pencil. The cut is made with a razor saw.

Slide and glue the launch lug over the lower half.

The tip is glued in the upper end.

Note I previously filled and painted the nose cone white. I figured it would be easier than filling the grain afterwards.

Here's the assembly - 

The nose cone and escape motor got a final shot of gloss white before the tower and structural skirt (next steps) are glued over the lug.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 16, Tunnels, Feed Lines & Ullage Motors

After shaping one end, 

The shorter ullage motor pieces were cut to length using a single edge razor blade.

The Ullage motors are tapered on the front only. The backs are left square.

The longer feed line fairings are tapered on both ends. 

Eight ullage motors and eight feed line fairings!

The pieces are small - Store them until needed in a zip lock bag.

Also cut two 5" lengths for the system tunnels and taper both ends.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 15, Tunnels, Feed Lines & Ullage Motors

Here's the mid section of my Dr. Zooch Saturn V build.

You can see the half dowel feed lines and ullage motors.

The older Estes kit also includes most of these details.

Three 1/12" diameter dowels are included. 

All are warped, one much worse than the others.

The straighter dowels will be used for the longer 5" tunnels. The badly warped dowel will be cut up for the short ullage motors and feed  line fairings. 

 

You'll find it easier to shape the tips before cutting the dowels to length. You have something to hold onto while the ends are tapered.

Shape the profile while viewing the flattened back of the dowel.

Turn the dowel over and round off the end in a teardrop shape.