Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 17, Marking The Tubes

 

From the instructions - 

You are directed to wrap the fin marking guide around the lower tube. This wrap fit very well.

GOTCHA: Not mentioned in the instructions - 

I'd recommend centering the engine hook between two of the "S" lines. You don't want the engine area vanes to hit the engine hook.

To go one step further, center the engine hook between two of the "SF" fin lines.

As in most instructions - 

You are told to extend the fin lines using a pencil and door frame.

TIP: I'd highly recommend buying and using an aluminum angle to extend the pencil marks, especially on larger models like this one.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 16, Prepping The Vanes

Using 400 grit, sand off the laser cut ash. 

You'll end up with a better finish on the outside edges and a stronger glue bond on the root edge. 

I like to "seal" the exposed edges with wood glue.

Apply a very narrow glue line down the outside edge you'll be seeing on the finished model.

Smooth the bead using the side of a finger.

After the glue dries,

Sand the glued edge with 400 grit.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 15, The Upper Fins, Steps B

The T pieces are glued onto the leading edge.

Run your fingertips down the leading edge to make sure there is an even overhang on both sides.

Sand the sides so the T pieces are flat and even with the R piece sides. 

The instructions say to "trim the ends even".

Trim a little long, then use a sanding block to match the angle ends of the R pieces.

The single 3/16" diameter launch lug is cut in half.

Use a new single edge razor blade, Cut straight down.

Use a sharpened dowel to re-round the ends.

I set the two lug pieces on some Q-tips for a handle for brushing on a coat of CWF

 

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 14, The Upper Fins, Steps A

The upper fin steps are a simpler repeat of the lower fin half. 

Fewer pieces, less to align.

 

The upper fin halves are easier to assemble compared to the lower fin sets.

Taper the S triangle piece and set into the R piece notches dry, no glue yet.

Line up the leading edges and tape the side by side leading edges.

To tack the sides together, apply small drops of medium CA glue every few inches.

Glue in the S triangle brace.

Apply a shallow line of glue down the leading edge "trench".

Smooth and let dry. 

Lightly sand any rough edge along the two side by side leading edges for a better fit of the T piece.

The picture on the right shows very little of the balsa has been sanded. You are just removing any roughness, not totally flattening the two pieces.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 13, The Lower Fins, Steps F

I had to sand a steeper angle on the inside of the Q pieces so they would fit together .

Notice the sanded bevel is wide enough and ends at the tip of the Y piece.

This shows a good fit of the center Q pieces.

Here's the interior of the assembly.

I tried for a overall better fit, but there is a slight gap inside towards the top of the Q pieces joint. This won't be seen on the finished model.

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 12, The Lower Fins, Steps E

GOTCHA: 

In the instructions, the before illustration is very thin compared to the after drawing on the right.

There is a slight taper sanded into the outside edges to better fit the "Q" side pieces coming up.

After sanding in the angle,

Here's the "Y" piece, lightly glued into the slot in the "X" piece.

Glue lightly, you may want to have it held like a glue "hinge" so it can be moved slightly for a better fit of the "Q" side pieces.

On a dry fit, no glue yet -

You can see the gaps in the "Q" side pieces.

The inside centers are sanded to a knife edge.

Mirror the other side.

On the right is the other side. You'll have to do some dry fits to figure out which angles are sanded into which sides. The instruction drawings are confusing.
 

Giving Model Rocketry A Bad Name . . .

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