Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 24, Touching Up The Black

The decals are old and subject to cracking, especially on the open ends where the section are slid together.

The end edges were sealed with clear acrylic applied with a Q-tip. 

The white areas were blackened in with a medium point Sharpie.

Done!

Estes Black Star Voyager Build, Part 19, More Smoothing of The Vane Edges

Here I go, overdoing a build.

Earlier I glue sealed and sanded the outside exposed edges of the cardstock vanes. I wanted a smoother edge on the cardstock.

Looking at the vanes again, I realized the inside edge (the flat side parallel to the body tube) would also be seen. 

On the left, you can see a glue bead going halfway down the inside edge. I addition to the outside edges sealed earlier, I'm adding the glue sealing to the long, visible edge closest to the body tube. You'd really have to look close to see the other inside edges when the vanes are glued in place.

 

After applying a slim glue bead, 

smooth the bead with the side of a fingertip. You should end up with an even, rounded glue bead.

Let dry.

Sand the bead with 400 grit. 

If you could compare sealed and unsealed cardstock edges, you could really see a difference once the paint is sprayed.

Estes Thor Agena Build Part 25 Tunnel Sealing

All the basswood pieces - tunnels, antennas and vernier nozzle housings - get sealed with clear varnish. You could use sanding sealer or dope.

I don't get too fancy with this, most all of it gets sanded off anyway.
I dip a paper towel into the varnish and rub it over the surface. Try to keep the varnish off the flat gluing sides.

After you're done, throw away the paper towel. No brushes to clean.


Sand smooth with 400 grit sandpaper.
This varnish will load up your sandpaper to it'll probably get tossed, too.

Two coats are needed for a good sealing.
Sand between both coats.