Carded BANDITO Finished

This is the look I was going for, the Bandito I saw in the Centuri catalog.

The Bandito is longer than it looks in the catalog.
The logo wasn't shown in the catalog picture but a decal was included in the kit.
A nose cone I used came from the Estes PNC-5 package.

While the fin shape isn't perfect when viewed from the rear, it should fly fine.

A engine block and streamer have been installed.
First flight will be with a 1/2A3-4t.
Update: It was lost on a A3-4t! Big altitude and very stable.

Patreon members: If you'd like the Bandito PDF to print and make your own, email me at: oddlrockets@bellsouth.net
and request the Bandito PDF.

Carded BANDITO Build Part 6, Lug & Chrome Trim

If you haven't done so already, glue the paper cover onto the launch lug.

The lug is glued right above the retaining ring centered between two fins.

This version of the Bandito was drawn to look like the model in the 1972 Centuri Catalog HERE
I never like the colors suggested on the Bandito instruction sheet.

Chrome Monokote trim was cut to cover the black printed areas.
This is optional, you could leave the black trim as is. The chrome trim really adds a lot to the final look.

Three smaller pieces of chrome trim were cut and placed over the retaining ring. Tuck the ends inside the open slot in the fin root edge.

Note: The model pictured here was made from the first downscale drawings. The notch on your print isn't as deep going over the retainer ring. 

Carded BANDITO Build Part 5, Wedge Fin Gluing

The fins will revert to the shape shown at the top.
You'll want them in the sharp wedge shown at the bottom inset.

Run your burnisher over the upper 2/3 of the leading edge.
The glued tab won't allow you to press down the back end.
You'll only need to work on the front to get the sharp wedge shape.

When white glue is applied to the thin root edges it'll bead up as shown in the upper picture.

Run your finger tip over the edge to take off the excess glue and glue beads.
You won't need much glue to get the fins to stay on the tube.

Set the fins down centered on the printed lines. Be sure the notch is centered over the retaining ring wrap.
Look close at the fins and coax the root edges into a straight line by pressing with a clean Q-tip.

Carded BANDITO Build Part 4, Wedge Fin Forming

The original Centuri kit had an engine retaining ring around the main tube.
The wedge fins had a notch that fit over the ring.
This downscale version has a simulated retaining ring made from card stock. The fins will have a stronger bond when glued on the ring.

Cut out the ring and glue in place over the indicated print.
Start the seam edge over a fin line so the joint will be covered when the fins are glued in place.

Apply glue stick to the small round tab that folds inside the fin.

Take an extra moment to align the tab before pressing it in place.

I used long tweezers to hold and press the glue tab into the opposite fin wall.

Carded BANDITO Build Part 3 Body Tube Skin

The 24 lb. print body tube skin is cut to size.
Look for the small tic marks on the outside. The color bands are oversize on purpose for full coverage at the joint seam.

Be sure your hands are clean before applying the body skin. If glue gets on the outside of the skin dirt and oils will stick to it.

Draw a pencil line down the body tube to align the body side. (See the next picture)

Set down some clean copy paper before applying the glue stick coat.

The inset picture shows the body skin turned over and an even glue stick coat being applied.

Set the long side of the skin down the pencil line on the body tube.
Note the body tube was rough cut a little long and will be cut to size afterwards.

Roll the paper skin around the tube using the side of a finger.
Make it smooth with no wrinkles.

You have a few minutes to apply the skin before the glue starts to set up.
It's enough time but don't wait to roll the skin in place.

The back end of a Sharpie was rolled over the seam to set it in place.