Estes Solar Sailer II, Kit # 2044, Step 5, Dowels & Small Fin Fitting

The fin marking guides from the Jim Z website fit!

The 1/8" diameter x 18" long dowel was cut into three sections, 5 1/4" long.

The dowels are shown here after they got a shot of filler/primer and sanding with 400 grit.

There isn't much grain in a dowel, but they will be smoother if filler/primer is used. Look close, there is some gray primer left in the fine grain after sanding.

 

The instructions say to glue the down end even with the trailing edge of the fin. 

I prefer to glue it on with a small overhang, then sand it even with the fin edge.

The picture on the right shows how small and narrow the glue bead on the fin is. If the dowel ended up not on center, I can cut through If needed. The instructions suggest using the folded instructions under the fin as a spacer to center the dowel on the outside edge. I used my fingers to feel for the center position, running them down the dowel joint as shown on the left side photo.

 

When lined up the small forward fin on a straightedge, there was a gap.

On the right, the fit is better after some block sanding on the high spots.

Estes Airborne Surveillance Missile Build, #0867, Part 6, Dowel Trim

Before cutting the dowel, give it a shot of filler/primer and smooth sanding. You won't be able to sand the inside edges of the dowel after it is glued on the model. 

The low end of the dowel pieces sits on the top of the 5/20 ring.

On the left is the dowel end cut straight. I sanded the end at an angle for a better fit, shown on the right.

To keep track of the dowel end angles, 

Mark a pencil line down the outside of the dowel.

The upper end of the dowel is cut just a little long. When glued in place it should extend over the top of the ring.

After the glue dries, 

Carefully shave the top even with the upper face of the ring.

Be sure the knife blade is sharp and held flat so you don't cut into the cardstock ring.

Estes Colonial Viper #1310, Part 7, Laser Cannons

The laser cannons are made up of a 1" long 3/16" launch lug, a 1 3/16" long 1/8" lug and a 1" length of 1/8" dowel.

On the bottom of the picture is a glued-up finished laser cannon.





Draw a line down the dowels and lugs. It's not easy to keep them in line during gluing.

Use the pencil lines to get everything straight.

Mark the depth for the 3/16" lug on the 1/8" lug.

Match up the center lines and the three pieces should end up in a straight line.








Here's the two finished laser cannons.

Estes Sasha Build #7271, Part 9, Antennas Shaping

I assume the short fin dowels are "antennas", that's what I'm calling them.
I sealed the long thin dowel with a wipe of clear varnish applied with a paper towel. The dowel was lightly sanded without altering the diameter.

TIP: Instead of cutting then rounding eight short dowel pieces . . .

Round the end of the long dowel, then cut off a single 1" length. Set that piece aside.
Then round the end then cut off another 1" length until you have eight pieces.

It's easier to round one side of the dowel while it is long enstead of eight short pieces.

The dowel is glued into the slot on the root edge.

Check from the front to be sure it is in line with the fin.

Custom SLV Build #10044, Part 7, Dowel Trim

Two dowels are provided for trim. Short lengths go over the joint between the two body tubes.

Sand the dowels smooth with 400 grit before cutting them to length.

Both dowels are cut to 1 1/2" lengths, four lengths from each 6" dowel.
GOTCHA: I checked the length and found the dowels were just short of the 6" length needed. I wanted all eight dowels to be the same length so I cut them all a little short at 1 7/16" long.

TIP: It's easy to roll a knife blade over a dowel to cut it. It's also very easy for that cut line to travel.
Go slow - Roll forward a half turn around the dowel then roll back to your starting pint. Roll back a half turn and joint the cuts.
Make sure the blade is perpendicular to the dowel and take it slow until the cut line is established.

Before filler/primer is sprayed, set all the dowels on a straight edge to be sure they are all the same length.

Dowel Cutting TIP

You could cut a dowel to length with a razor saw but it's easier to cut thin dowels by rolling your knife blade over it.

Sometimes, you end up with a cut line that travels, a spiral cut line down the dowel.

For a straight cut, try this:
Draw your knife blade down a straight line.
Follow a line on your cutting mat or draw a vertical line with a straightedge.
I extend the blade out of my break off blade knife and line it up over the line. Keep your blade on the line as you roll over the perpendicular dowel.








Cut about halfway through and you can crack the dowel in two on the cut.

The end will be rough, sand off the end with 220 on a block.

Custom PONG Build Part 12, Center Section Dowels

In Step 2 you are told to glue the BT-50 sections to the BT-5 with 3" of space between them.
The two supplied dowels are exactly 6" long. Those are cut in half leaving two 3" sections. If the dowels ended up a little short the dowel ends wouldn't reach the BT-50 assemblies.

I glued the upper assembly a little closer to the bottom (2 15/16") to allow a sanded friction fit of the dowels between the two BT-50 sections.

Cut the dowels in half by rolling a razor blade over the 3" mark.
Roll only one turn of the dowel forward, then roll back toward you keeping the blade in the cut you just made.
If you roll too many rotations forward you run the risk of the cut traveling down the dowel in a spiral. You don't have much dowel length to play with, make the cut correctly.

Here's the dowels in place, friction fitted with no glue.
Don't make the fit too tight, you could bend the center BT-5 tube.
The dowels will be glued with a spot of white glue first on the ends.
I'll follow with some medium CA applied with a toothpick at the inside area of the joint.

Estes Plasma Probe Build Part 9 Fin Dowels

The 1/8" diameter dowel was sanded smooth with 400 grit then sealed  with some old varnish.
I don't bother getting out a brush, just dip a paper towel in the varnish and wipe it on.

After drying the dowel was sanded smooth with 400 grit.

The dowel is almost 9" long. The instructions say to cut it into four equal lengths so each piece will be just under 2 1/4" long.

You could cut the dowel with a razor saw, but on a 1/8" dowel it's easier to use a razor blade.
TIP: Don't just roll the dowel under the blade, chances are the blade will travel down the dowel and you'll get a spiral cut. Mark the cut lengths with a pencil.
Start the cut but only roll around the dowel towards you for 1/2 turn.
Go back to the pencil mark starting point and roll the blade away from you.
Doing the cut "half and half" helps get the rolled cut line meet up.

The forward end of the four dowels are rounded with 220 grit followed by 400 grit.