Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 8, Pylon Supports & Dowels

I'll usually fill the tube seams before gluing things together.

On the left - Thinned CWF filler in the seams,

On the right - The filler sanded to surface.

A shot of filler/primer and sanding followed.

The pylon supports got some CWF and sanding.

The dowel/plywood joint got a second brushing of CWF and more sanding.

The propulsion unit marking guides were cut out and pre-rolled.

Press a dowel into the heel of your hand as you roll over the cardstock to put a curve into it.

On the right - the marking guide retains the cylinder shape after forming. 

The pylon slot is printed as a long rectangle.

The pylon is square on one side and rounded in the back.

I'm going to cut the slots to fit the actual pylon shape.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 7, Pylon Supports & Dowels

Removed from the die-cut ply sheet - 

The picture shows how rough the pylon support pieces are. 

Set on a flat surface, one was die-cut a hair wider.

The wider piece was sanded down to the height of the shorter piece. 

A dowel is glued to the back edge of the pylon.

Cut the dowel a little longer than the pylon.

Center the dowel and glue down the pylon edge.

After he glue dries,

Sand the dowel ends even with the pylon length.

R.O.C.K. Launch Nov. 8, 2025

This was a "make-up" launch, the field was too muddy last Saturday from all the rain. Few participants today, three regular club members and and few first timers launching their RTF Estes Pumas.

The ASP D REGION TOMAHAWK had an impressive boost with the A3-4t motor. Altitude was an estimated 500'!

Touch down was on the opposite side of the field under the long yellow streamer.

I'm always surprised how well the 13mm engines perform in a minimum diameter BT-5 tube.

This is my Estes EAC VIPER upscale housed in a BT-55 tube.

The B6-4 was just about right with an altitude of 375'. 

My new dog Dakota didn't bark or bat an eye during the launches. 

She did appreciate her new shaded play pen. 

The next dog "test" will be a camping trip later this month.

The Semroc MMX MARS LANDER was disappointing.

After clearing the launch rod, it looped and landed dislodging one of the lander leg fins. 10' high!

Even though the weather has been cooler lately, today was HOT!

Few flyers sent us home early.

My last rocket up was my GOONY X-15 with an Estes B6-4. Textbook flight with an easy recovery.

I only had four launches and wanted to get my dog cooled off! All recovered, no damages.

 

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 6, Internal Support Ring

The internal support ring  (RT-99D, 3.7" diameter)

has to fit over the "hump" in the primary hull bottom disk. 

Cut the template using a straightedge on the straight lines an scissors on the curves. 

The template doesn't go all the way around the support ring. 

Mark the cutaway crescents with pencil.

Cut the crescents out with a sharp knife.

Here's how the cuts are placed on the ring, directly on opposite sides.

A dry fit in the lower hull disk. Note they do not contact the hump when centered on the disk.

I'm not gluing the ring in place yet.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 5, Cutting Out The Vacu-form Parts

I saved the large hull disks for last. 

As before, trace around the edges with a ball point pen.

Score along the pen lines.

Free up the edges for easier bending and cracking by cutting relief segment lines.

Sand the disk edges with a block.

The right side picture shows the upper and lower primary hull halves dry fitted. Note the overlap of the top half.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 4, Cutting Out The Vacu-form Parts

Here's what I mean about the high pieces being thin at the baseline.

There was a crack in the thin area of the secondary hull.

This happened before I sanded the base edges.

A strip of the scrap plastic was cut and folded to a "V" shape.

This was glued in place over the crack using liquid cement.

Another area of concern - 

The front of the secondary hull halves were also thin.

Sand the edges on a block using 220 then 400 grit sandpaper.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 3, Cutting Out The Vacu-form Parts

Cutting out vacu-form parts can be a delicate operation. 

Take your time!

The oldest method is probably the best -

Draw around the bottom recess with a ball point pen. This gives you a defined line to cut on.

Score (no need to cut all the way through) along the ink line with a sharp knife.

Bend back and forth along the scored line until the flat excess cracks off.

You can break off the scrap plastic in short segments. Cut lines (like pieces of a pie) away from the scored line for easier bend and separation.

Sand the bottom edges smooth with 220 grit on a block.

You are reaching the finished edge when you notice small strings of thin plastic rolling off the bottom.

For comparison,

On the left is the dome after cutting off the sheet.

On the right, 

The dome after sanding the base. Sand off all the turned lip so the sides are flat.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 2, Parts Of Interest

The large vacu-form sheet.

At the top you can see the horizontal tunnel recess to fit the engine mount tube. 

While the forms are sharp, the secondary "hull" pieces (center) are high. The plastic is thin around the base edges.

The plywood was poorly cut. 

Granted, die cutting plywood would be difficult to do!

The plywood wasn't great quality.

The backside of the plywood -  

Many of the die-cuts didn't go through to the other side. I had to free up some lines with my knife.

A clay weight came in the bag but lead washer weights were supplied.

I'll be using the lead weights, held in place by the screw eye. The "recovery probe" nose cone was the same one used in the Estes two-stage Midget and Andromeda.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 1, Parts

This is going to be an interesting build.

My kit version was an original from 1975. The model was later reissued as a 25th anniversary edition, sold in a box with paint.

My first Enterprise build was in 1976. I remember being disappointed with the fit of some parts. To be stable, a long "recovery probe" is connected to the model. The starship is dragged behind during boost. 

It was launched twice, both flights had damage. The vacu-form parts are delicate.

You can review the instructions at Jim Zs: CLICK HERE

No overall parts picture - there was just too many parts to capture.

Take a look - 

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This, Part 8 . . .

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This -

I've been suggesting this one for years - 

This idea was inspired by the old Centuri engines. I wanted to make an additional improvement.

The Centuri engine power designation was printed eight times (horizontally) around the lower third of the engine.

At a glance you could pick the appropriate engine for your rocket.

But once installed in the motor mount, the printed engine power was out of sight, covered by the engine mount tube.

My idea:

Typically, the nozzle end of the engine extends 1/4" out the back of a rocket. I'd like to see the engine type designation at the bottom rear of the engine.

This way it can be seen after the engine is loaded into the motor mount.

There might be reasons why the print area can't get close to the base of the engine.

Even experienced fliers have been known to load the wrong engine power or delay.

With the engine name visible out the back of the mount, it could be identified all the way up to when the micro clips are connected.

Some of the advantages:

• Success for first timers, more return fliers.
• Fewer mistakes and less impacts before ejection.
• Safer for the consumer and manufacturer.

The engine power and delay band is printed in the appropriate color for it's intended use: GREEN = Single Stage, PURPLE = Upper Stage and RED = Booster engine.
In the picture you can see the engine name once, it's actually printed three times around the nozzle end of the engine.
What do you think?

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This, Part 7 . . .

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This - 

INCLUDE A FEW EXTRA "TEST" DECALS

If a kit decal sheet has some extra space, include a few extras or duplicates.

This allows the builder a first "test soak" and test the transfer without risking larger necessary decals on the model. Sometimes I use the Estes or Quest logo decals as a test.

 

This could come in handy if the decals are older. The test decal would let you know if you might need a clear coat or Microsol liquid decal film before soaking.

I Wish Manufacturers Wouldn't Do This, Part 6 . . .

Some kits include an engine hook that gets get bent out of shape after the first flight!  

Use SPRING STEEL, not pot metal. 

You can get spring steel engine hooks from BMS. (Balsa Machining Service)

I Wish Manufacturers Wouldn't Do This, Part 5 . . .

TRI-FOLD MOUNTS ON SMALL DIAMETER BODY TUBES -

Tri-fold shock cord mounts can block the ejection of a parachute.

On BT-5, BT-20 and BT-50 sized models, drop the tri-fold mounts and go with Kevlar tied to the engine mount.

BT-5 models with this type of mount are especially problematic. This was more common years back when mini-motor kits were introduced.

I Wish Manufacturers Wouldn't Do This, Part 4 . . .

PRINTING ON SHROUDS - 

Some kit shrouds have printing on the outside, finished model surface.

The printed words "Outer Shroud" could bleed through the paint. Position that wording outside the shroud!

You don't run into this very often. The original Estes Mars Snooper was another kit with printing on shrouds.

I Wish Manufacturers Wouldn't Do This, Part 3 . . .

PAPER REINFORCEMENT RINGS?

Paper tears and doesn't really offer any reinforcement to a hard shroud line pull at ejection.

Right out of the kit bag, the ring was already tearing from a rough punch tearing into the plastic chute.

I often replace the paper rings with Avery Plastic Reinforcement Rings, #5720.

I Wish Manufacturers Wouldn't Do This, Part 2 . . .

WEAK KIT SHROUD LINES!

They easily break when you give these strings a tug.

I often replace the kit supplied shroud lines with #10 cotton embroidery string. You can buy a large spool at a craft store. 

Try to break cotton embroidery string! Go ahead, I dare 'ya!

LAUNCH! R.O.A.R., Christmas, FL, October 25, 2025

I don't usually go to club launches in the Summer. The R.O.A.R. club skips meeting in the hot months.

First launch for me today was the new, New Way BLADE RUNNER with a B6-4.

Straight and stable to 250'. Not too high considering the drag of the blade fins. A good start to a windy day. Check out the launch rods angled to the East.  

Many experienced flyers have never seen a MicroMaxx model. 

This is the ASP SANDIA SANDHAWK using a 1/8A MMX motor.  Compare it's size, next to the girth of the Estes MAV.

While I cautioned how fast these are, this one was easy to follow through ejection and touchdown. The small chrome Mylar streamer made recovery easy. Estimated altitude was 75'.

My new dog - 

This was Dakota's first rocket launch - she did great!

A little startled by the first loud composite motor boost. After a few LPR launches the "whooosh" didn't phase her!

Dakota can be skittish around people she doesn't know. She warmed up to some (patient) new friends.

A Summer blog build,

The Estes MINI BOMARC first flight with an A10-3t. 

Some "coning" during boost, but overall as stable as a winged rocket gets. I would estimate the altitude to be 175'. Full 8" chute and no damage.

Another Summer build - 

The downscale (BT-50 based) AMRAMM was based on the Estes kit and information from the Alway book.

A B6-4 got it to 350' with a straight boost. If I remember correctly, a half ounce of clay weight compensated for the forward fins.

Winds were up to 15 mph - lots of open chutes drifted to the West.

I don't think any models were lost, the AMRAAM landed too close to the small pond on the property. It's closer to the marsh than the picture shows.

Four up, four recovered with no damage.

I had hoped to launch the LTV Scout and Centuri Skylab - it was too windy to risk those rare birds.

New Way Blade Runner, Finished

I was looking forward to building this!

It should turn heads at the next club launch.

The blade fins make for a very clever design. 

The ring covers the fin/strake glue joint.

It took a little extra effort to fill and paint, but the finished look is worth it.

Big, Clean graphics.

Three colors and an easy mask.

My favorite new design this year!

New Way Blade Runner, Part 16, Vinyl Trim

A strip of black, self-adhesive vinyl is supplied to go over the color separation line.

TIP: The masking line paint ridge could show under the vinyl so I lightly sanded the paint ridge with some 400 grit wrapped around a Q-tip. Don't sand too wide, just knock down the paint ridge. 

On the left,

Fold back the backing to position just the start of the wrap.

On the right,

The wrap in place. Start and finish the wrap on the launch lug side.

New Way Blade Runner, Part 15, Decals

The short ring tube wrap decal could be cut in two for easier application.

More bars between the white and gray paint.

Dry fit - Notice the faint pencil line extending from the fins. Every other vertical black line lines up with the five fins.

Wet the body where the decal will be positioned.

The same wrap decal from the side - after soaking -

Slide just the first black bar off the backing paper and position it down the pencil line.

Continue sliding the paper off the decal as you wrap the decal around the tube. With any luck the decal will meet and line up on the other side.