New Estes Laser X2

Estes has unveiled a new Designer Signature Series kit - 

The LASER X2

This is based on the original Centuri Laser X design, upscaled to a BT-60 size.

I had always thought the Centuri Laser X was produced to compete with the Estes Mars Snooper.

The Estes Mars Snooper was introduced in 1966, the Centuri Laser X in 1968.

The new Laser X2 kit instructions have been posted: CLICK HERE

The colors and decal treatment are different from the original. New balsa strakes run down the upper tube. Plastic fin detail "guns" replace the toothpicks on the outside edge of the fins. 

The small vanes that surround the engine tube extension are now molded in plastic. A new screw on engine retainer rounds out the kit.

To see my build of the original Laser X from Semroc, CLICK HERE

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 15, White Paint & Planning Ahead

The conduit fillets show up when the white undercoats are sprayed.

Wood glue fillets can be sanded, just be careful not to sand into the wood.

It doesn't look good now, but a few more white sprayings should cover things up.

Some of the tunnel joints were close, these were open, but no more open than the body tube/adapter joint.

I probably could fill these joints, but won't this time around.

Looking ahead - 

The heat shield will be painted black, masked off using Scotch tape cut in an arc.

Paint the vernier covers red? 

That would be difficult, they are only slightly raised.

I could use a decal sheet for four small red dots, or - 

Punch some red vinyl using my rotary punch. 

This red vinyl is left over from the Skylab build.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 14, Parachutes & New Decals

The finished build is just over 36" tall and recovers on a single 18" parachute. 

Those fin tips can break off on a hard landing.

Suggested by Ken C. in a comment, I'll recover the lower body on the 18" chute and add a 12" chute for the upper body assembly.

Note the position of the shroud line hole. It is punched towards the outside of the reinforcement ring. This puts shroud line tension against the plastic ring preventing the start of a tear.

I replaced the paper tape disks with plastic Avery Reinforcement Rings, #5271.

Paper rings tear.

Old kit decals are iffy and on this kit, difficult to apply.

I ordered some replacement decals from CMR Products. 

CMR has taken over decal production of Tango Papa Decals. CLICK HERE to see their catalog.

Prices are reasonable (as things go today) and free shipping.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 13, Tunnel Gluing

Much like the tunnels on the Saturn V build - 

The tunnel ends fit better when sanded to a small angle. 

The tunnel ends on the adapters aren't molded at a 90 degree angle.

This shows a good fit. Not all the conduit ends were as tight!

The tunnel at the bottom has been glued and taped in place.

The upper tunnel position shows had the filler/primer scraped off just inside the pencil lines.

The wood used to make the tunnels is prone to split. I had it happen a few times when cutting to size.

 

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 12, Tunnel Marking

GOTCHA: The three tube marking guides didn't meet up when wrapped around the tubes.

The tunnels were taped down to scrap cardboard and sprayed with filler/primer. It's much easier to seal and fill these off the model.

The instructions have you cut the tunnels to length before gluing them on the model.

I'd recommend cutting the length 1/8" oversize and sanding the ends to size. You'll get a tighter, cleaner fit.

Also - Apply the glue to the underside of the tunnel, not glue on the body tube. Apply a glue line, wipe off excess and press in place. You'll have more control and less squeeze out of the glue on the sides of the tunnels.

Marking the payload tube is a bit confusing.

The tunnels are to the right of and just below the raised triangle shape in the upper adapter.

Enlarge the picture to see the pencil lines.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 11, Engine Mount Gluing

I used a dowel to roll a line of glue inside the body tube. The upper ring would slide into the glue ring.

The mount is held beside the body tube alongside the dowel. The top of the dowel is just under the upper centering ring.

At the bottom, the dowel is marked with pencil for a depth guide.

Note the masking tape around the engine mount. The tape is only there for a pencil mark at 1 9/16" from the end of the tube. The low end of the tube will extend 1 9/16" out the back.

Apply a line of glue around the top of the dowel.

Roll the glue ring inside the tube using the pencil line on the dowel for the correct depth.

Slide in the mount. when you reach the pencil depth mark, turn the mount to spread and even the glue at the upper centering ring.

The lower ring fillet was applied using single drops of wood glue applied with a Q-tip. Enlarge the picture to see the glue fillet.

The low conduit section and base cap are glued together using Fabri-Tac. Notice the alignment "key" notches before gluing.

Apply more Fabri-Tac to the inside of the tube and the low end of the motor tube. Slide in the low conduit assembly rotating the engine hook relief notch around the engine hook.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 10, Some Parts Prep

The blow molded adapters fit loose in their body tubes.

The ones that are to be glued in got the shoulders built up with two lines of Fabri-Tac.

Let the glue lines dry before trying the new fit in the tubes.

The nose cone still had a seam recess after sanding down the raised mold line. 

This was filled with a bead of medium CA glue. This CA bead will take a while to dry.

Sand to surface with 400 grit on a block. 

The molded eyelet on the third stage was small and thin. I wouldn't trust it at ejection. The small eyelet reminds me of the Bullpup kit nose cone. I've had that one break in the past.

A hole was drilled in the shoulder. The shock cord will be tied through it and the larger hole in the base.