This rounds off the ends, removes any excess and can push some glue into the seam crack at the ends.
Remember, the T M&TG skins over quickly. Don't go back and try to remove any more after the first or second smoothing of the glue.
You wont be able to sand white glue or T M&TG fillets!
I usually give the model an additional shot of primer filler and sand that. If there are any glue ridges left they should go away after sanding the primer / filler to surface.
Titebond Molding and Trim glue is like any other new tool. It takes a few tries to get it right. I didn't like it at first but now use it on almost every model.
Here's an example of some finished paint over fillets.
Personally, I think the width of the fillets should reflect the size of the model and body tube.
LPR models get thinner fillets. MPR models get wider fillets usually formed out of epoxy.
Those look nice. I've gotten better at my fillets, but they're still not perfect. I get fewer bubbles now, which I consider progress.
ReplyDeleteHi rocket N00b,
ReplyDeleteLike anything else, fillets take practice. With the Titebond M&TG you should be able to get rid of bubbles altogether.
I only just heard of this stuff. I'll have to pick some up and give it a try.
ReplyDeleteHi Rocket N00b,
DeleteIt's great stuff, now called Titebond No Run No Drip or something close to that. It does take some getting used to. It's thick and doesn't shrink much when dried. Fillets on either side of the launch lug will have no bubbles.
The only time you'll see bubbles is if you lay it on very thick.
Apply and smooth like you would with regular white or yellow glue fillets. It does skin over faster than regular glues so do a quick pass with a fingertip to smooth.