Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 9, Upper Fins

The upper fins were filled with CWF and sanded. Then, filler/primer and sanding with 400 grit. Two steps and the balsa grain is filled.

I'll be painting these upper fins off the model. This will save some masking. The upper fins won't break off as the lower fins take the stress on landing.

Estes got it right!

The fin marking guide and alignment drawing are on a separate page of the instructions. There is no printing on the reverse side. You don't have to cut up an instruction page - no build steps on the other side - 

The fin marking guide matched up perfectly.

I wouldn't normally glue fins on this way and wouldn't recommend it for the occasional builder. This will not give you the strongest glue joint. 

The BT-55 mid tube was already seam filled and painted dark gray.

A fin glue line was scraped using an aluminum angle and the tip of a diamond file. Be sure the scraped line is shorter than the top of the root edge length.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 8, Scattered Steps

I'm always apprehensive about using pre-made parachute shroud lines.

These broke with a good tug!

I cut them off the chute and replaced them with #10 embroidery thread.

Plastic nose cones and adapters take longer to dry between paint coats.

I waited three days before spraying the yellow and the paint wrinkled!

Sand smooth, wait four days and spray again!

Here's the new Estes self-adhesive shock cord mount.

It's a simple knot, I left a loose tail for some extra insurance.

I'll be checking the adhesion of the mount after a few flights.

Older rocketeers might remember the problems with the Centuri self adhesive mounts - 

Initially claimed to be "permanent", they did loosen and pull loose over time. Later kits would include an addendum to the instructions reminding you to burnish the fastener between launches.

Granted - in 1971 we didn't have the 3M tape that is on the back of the new Estes shock cord mounts. Time will tell . . .  

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 7, Gluing & Filling The Fin Tips

The fin tips and fins had the balsa grain filled and sanded.

Filler/primer and sanding followed.

I used a small diamond file to slightly open up the slots to a friction fit over the fin tabs.

The fin tips are glued on.

There is now gaps around the fin tab joint.

This joint required additional filling,

first more CWF and sanding flat with a block.

The backs of the shield tips are masked and the flat face got a shot of filler/primer and sanding with 400 grit.

Once the fins are glued onto the BT-5 cluster tubes, 

Masking will be tight to separate the black and yellow paint on the inside of the "T" fin.

I sprayed some white undercoat on just the fin tip face and the underside joint.

Notice the root edge is masked off with a narrow strip of tape.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 6, Fin Fitting & Fill

The tube seams were filled with CWF and sanded to surface.

The BT-55 had a definite seam, the heavy walled BT-50 was very tight.

After the fin tips were glued together, I tried a test fit on the main fin.

I wish the fin tabs (sticking into the smaller "shield" fin) were longer so you could sand them to surface after gluing them on. With the tabs slightly recessed there is more to fill.

Laser cutting burns through at a slight angle.

Look close at the right side of the root edges.

I sanded and evened the burned edges so they would glue on perpendicular to the body tube.

The fins have laser cut "slots" running parallel to the leading and trailing edges. I decided to leave them in and fill the slots with CWF.

Why leave them in?

The rough laser cut slots would be difficult to fill and sand. The visible edges would be rough. The design is interesting enough without the open slots.
 

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 5, Upper Centering Ring

Here's the upper laminated centering ring,

glued 1/2" from the bottom of the BT-5 tube cluster.

The instructions say to add glue fillets down and between the three tubes.

TIP: I wouldn't do this, it's a long, deep joint. When the glue dries you'll have bubbles and an uneven fillet.

I used a few drops of glue to fill the small center gap. This will block any ejection charge escape.

Years back we used "tissue/glue putty" to fill gaps like this. Tissue/glue putty is a mix of glue and tissue torn into very small pieces. It makes a strong gap filler.

This gap is small, if it were larger I'd make up some tissue/glue putty.

To read more about this gap filler: CLICK HERE 

This top and bottom glue fill also strengthens the mount.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 4, Centering Ring Laminates

The center triangle of the centering rings will probably break off. There's not much to hold it in the center.

I'll show how to block the hole (and the ejection charge) in the next post.

When laminating the two sets of two rings, 

use one of the BT-5 tubes to check the alignment.

Don't glue the tube to the rings (yet), use the tube to be sure all three holes are lined up.

The instructions suggest sliding the ring down from the top into a glue ring.

For a cleaner build and less visible glue -  

I slid the centering ring up from the bottom pushing the glue ring up. It's a cleaner visual outside joint on the finished model.. 

You don't have to use much glue, you can always add a glue fillet later.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 3, Engine Blocks

Jim Flis (Fliskits) gets credit for this engine block setting idea calling it the "Block and Tackle.".

TIP: The mini motors (friction fitted) extend 1/4" out the rear of the BT-5 tubes. 

A 1/4" strip of masking tape is wrapped around and even with the end of the yellow spacer tube. 

This tape ring stops when it hits the end of the tube. 

All three engine block will be at the same depth.

The instructions the engine block glue line at 1" inside the tubes.

I'd recommend using a dowel pencil marked at 1 1/4" to apply a ring of glue inside the tube.

Apply the glue ring, slide in the engine block. Use the taped yellow tube to set the ring depth.

The three BT-5 tubes are ready for the centering rings.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 2, Paint Plan & Engine Tubes Fill

Planning ahead!

If you want to paint the rocket in the face card colors, paint the build in sections before gluing it all together.

The BT-5 cluster tubes are yellow and would be difficult to paint if glued into the gray BT-55 tube.

That yellow adapter could be painted before gluing into the white BT-50. Same goes for the gray nose cone. Paint them before gluing together and get instant "masks" or color separations. 

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The lower centering ring is glued 2" down from the tops of the BT-5 motor tubes. I filled the tube seams below that.

The seams were shallow, here you can see the pencil lines where they could be felt.

CWF was used to fill the bulk of the seams and sanded smooth.

The upper 2" (glue area) was masked off and the low end sprayed with filler/primer. Sanding this down filled any remaining seams.

Estes Time Warp Build, #7321, Part 1, Parts

A new mini-motor cluster rocket!

I recently picked up a bunch 13mm motors. This model would be a good way to burn through some black powder.

The Estes Time Warp has three BT-5s motor mount tubes (left side, in yellow) joined to a BT-55 (gray tube). A 55/50 adapter joins to a heavy walled BT-50 (unusual) and finally the gray nose cone.

The parts of interest:

Mentioned earlier, a heavy wall BT-50

The new self-adhesive Estes shock cord mount

A laser cut 3/32" thick balsa sheet

The four centering rings - 

The pairs are laminated to make two thicker rings.

That small center triangle is very close with not much to hold it onto the assembly.

No Posts? I'm Camping!

Sorry, no posts for the next three days.

I'm going camping with Dakota the Blue Merle Sheltie.

A new build will start on Friday, February 13.

New Hole Punch

I just got a new hole punch. 

The punches get dull after a few years of use and it's hard to find replacement parts that fit. This is heavier duty and replacement hole punch tubes are included!

Also in the box: A wrench to tighten or change the cutting tubes and a 6" long metal ruler. 

To see it, CLICK HERE

For $13.99 it's probably the best available.

Centering Rings: I use hole punches for engine hook relief notches in centering rings and launch lug holes.

Launch Lugs: Rotated to the largest punch (4.5 mm), it's a perfect friction fit for sliding in a 1/8" diameter launch lug.

Parachutes: Instead of tearing holes with a pencil tip, the smallest diameter punch works perfectly for shroud line holes in a plastic parachute. 

TIP: Be sure to use thin cardstock under the thin chute material for a clean punch. 

Rotary punches are handy for belt holes and many other household uses.

Comparing The Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V with the Dr. Zooch Saturn V, Part 2

The tail end -

Those clear fins on the Estes Saturn have a tendency to pop off on a hard landing.

The balsa fins on the Zooch Saturn V are much larger. No clear fins needed. 

The back end of the Estes Saturn V, empty fairings and those clear fins.

The tail of the Dr. Zooch Saturn V.

The fairing wraps are much stronger, glued onto conical wedges cut from a BT-20.

The F-1 engines are formed from cardstock. The hat band rings are thread. The turbine exhausts are formed out of "Funky Glue Putty". F.G.P. is wood glue rolled and formed between your fingers as the glue dries. 

Notice the engine hook extending far out the back. This keeps the engine bells clear of the motor flame. 

The Dr. Zooch kit is an improved, more detailed version of the Estes Saturn V.

The Zooch Saturn V is one of my favorite builds.

Comparing The Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V with the Dr. Zooch Saturn V, Part 1

In all these pictures - 

The Estes Semi-scale Saturn V is on the left, the Dr. Zooch Saturn V is on the right.

The Estes model weighs 2 ozs.

The Dr. Zooch Saturn weights 2.4 ozs., there is 1/2 oz. preinstalled n the nose section.

Both are about the same height,

The Estes Saturn has the clear fins that extend below the body.

The Dr. Zooch Saturn has cardstock engine bells that extend below the body. The Dr. Zooch model launches with the engine bells in place.

The upper sections - Zooch Saturn on the left, Estes Saturn on the right. The Dr. Zooch nose section has 1/2 oz. of nose weight inside.

The adapter section.

All the Zooch wraps are more detailed and printed in a darker black.

The mid section wraps:

The Estes Saturn V has eight ullage motors,

The Zooch Saturn has four. The later Saturn Vs had half the number of ullage motors.

The Estes kit really needs the UNITED STATES, USA and flag decals.

More in the next post . . .

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Finished

The low points:

I screwed up the black mask on the long tunnels. 

The clear fins didn't fit the fairings. 

The #1 wrap was short!

Lifting a mask tore a small area of a wrap. 

The high points:

It's a challenge to build an older kit.

I was happy with the finished look of all the tunnels.

The nose cone came out well - the folded tower and skirt fit!

Mentioned earlier - This was probably the first time Thru-the-wall fins were used in a kit!

The tunnels and ullage motors - 

The adapter and wraps.

The upper body/nose cone.

Strange Estes didn't include a service module wrap.

What else was missing?

DECALS!!!

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 31, Loose Ends & Edges

The original kit screw was small and tarnished with age.

I switched out a new, larger one.

The instructions have you glue the long launch lug 1/4" to the right of the lower white/black mask below. 

There is a problem - 

At 1/4" spacing, it puts the lug over the side of the fin fairing.

Look close at the left side picture, you'll see two pencil lines. I glued the lug at the 3/16" spacing. 

I scraped paint away down the lug glue line. I didn't apply a glue fillet down the sides of the lug.

Here you can see the lug clearance. If it were set at 1/4" the launch rod would be rubbing against the conical fairing.

You also must clear the feed line and ullage motor tunnels above.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 30, The Paper Fin Overlays

The original kit fin stickers had faded and weren't usable.

I re-drew them in Corel Draw.

These were printed on peel and stick paper.

Simply cut out and stick on one side of the clear fins.

Set them in place held on the tip of your knife.

The root edge side of the stickers extended beyond the clear fin gap.

I lucked out - the gray I picked printed up a close match to the silver paint.

Another frustration - 

One of the four clear fins already broke out of the cut slot! I'll re-glue it.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 29, The Clear Fins

I remember attaching clear plastic fins on the old Thor Agena B and Gemini Titan kits. They were never a strong hold, often popping off at the root edge on landing.

The instructions call for clear dope to attach the fins. 

With the way this build is going, I'm not ordering any expensive "adhesive".

Beacon Fabri-Tac has acetone and should be able to hold tight enough. A bead of Fabri-tac was applied down the root edge tab.

In addition to the Fabri-tac, I ran some medium super glue applied with a toothpick.

Squeeze a drop on scrap cardboard - 

Dip the toothpick tip in the drop of glue - 

Run the toothpick tip down the root edge spreading the glue in a controlled line.

Another concern - while the tab fit well into the slot,

there is a visible gap down the fairing.

I could spend time making the fin fit better, but with all the other problems with this build, I'm not going to bother!