The end of the tail cone has to be cut off. I always keep a fine razor saw handy for these type of cuts.
TIP: When cutting, let the saw do all the work. It doesn't take much pressure, just a light back and forth motion.
TIP: To scrape any raised molding seam line, use the back of your knife blade. Why dull the sharp side of the blade? The edges of the blade back work like a wood scraper.
After scraping the nose cone seam there were some recesses.
I did my standard fill using a bead of medium CA glue. Let it dry thoroughly before sanding to surface with 200 grit on a block, followed by 400 grit smoothing.
The two pats of clay are pressed into the nose cone.
TIP: Hold the nose cone up to a bright light to make sure the clay is all the way forward. I used a bamboo skewer to get the clay in and push through the air trapped near the tip.
Chris - do you "seal" the clay with anything? I've used regular water-activated Gorilla Glue that seems to work.
ReplyDeleteHi Openroad,
DeleteNo, for LPR I haven't had the need to seal clay in the nose cone tip. It might be a good idea to check your clay weight on a hot day at the field.
I did however use water-based Gorilla Glue when I drew up the instructions for the 1.6" diameter MadCow Bomarc. The water-based glue held the lead shot well. It took many, many raps on a counter top to finally dislodge the shot BBs. The glue did take a long time to dry inside the plastic nose cone.
While I don't normally use Gorilla Glue, some of their products do have their place.