The body tube had a few inches of "secondary seam". This was depressed even more with a pencil point to give the CWF something more to grab onto.
More CWF and some more sanding.
The TTW tab and root edges were masked off before getting a shot of filler/primer. This keeps the balsa unsealed for a better glue bond.
The picture on the left shows the tape mask and the bare balsa root edge and tab.
On the right is the before and after sanding with 400 grit. You can see just a bit of the filler/primer left in what grain remains after a single pass of CWF.
The TTW tab and root edges were masked off before getting a shot of filler/primer. This keeps the balsa unsealed for a better glue bond.
The picture on the left shows the tape mask and the bare balsa root edge and tab.
On the right is the before and after sanding with 400 grit. You can see just a bit of the filler/primer left in what grain remains after a single pass of CWF.
I'm not a big fan of tri-fold mounts. I went with the Centuri style using a piece of body tube. I pulled something close to the 1.8" diameter from the spare parts drawer and cut a crescent wedge.
The shock cord is tied on and the mount glued into the top of the tube allowing room for the adapter shoulder.
This style of shock cord mount mount works well on larger diameter tubes where the parachute has room to eject without catching.
TIP: If you leave an open "slot" area where the shock cord goes under the tube segment, you could slide a replacement shock cord through the slot if needed later on.
TIP: If you leave an open "slot" area where the shock cord goes under the tube segment, you could slide a replacement shock cord through the slot if needed later on.
No comments:
Post a Comment