But - two of the black edge ended up to the right of center.
I used an old trick -
On the left, a fine point Sharpie was sued to draw a new border line.
On the right, the white area was filled in with a wider point Sharpie.
Perfect? No. But, it beats re-masking and spraying again.
Here's how the #7 wrap will fit between the fairings. It will require some trimming to fit into the fairing fillet area.
There is some slight yellow discoloration in the old print.
Note the mask line at fin slot area looks rough. There is still a strip of masking tape in the slot to keep out the paint.
Here the fin slot tape strips have been removed.
That bit of black above the mid point mask will be covered by the #6 wrap.
The rough mask line around the fairing will be covered with silver paint.



One thing you may need to be careful about with Sharpie ink is that it could sometimes bleed when you apply a clearcoat -- largely depending on the solvent used by the clearcoat.
ReplyDeleteHi Naoto,
DeleteGood point! But, I rarely use clear coat sprays. My scale models are usually painted using gloss. Flat finishes are a dirt and finger oils magnet!
I'd be apt to clearcoat at least the printed paper wraps. On paper/card models, I usually apply a few light coats of clearcoat to protect against moisture (which would often cause inkjet inks to run).
DeleteIf I'm not mistaken, the Saturn V had a gloss or semi-gloss finish in real life, so a gloss finish on a scale model of the Saturn V would be accurate. Most folks tend to dullcote Saturn V models because a gloss finish "looks fake" (despite being accurate).
DeleteAlthough the rocket was gloss, when readied for launch, the frost that accumulated on the surface (due to the cryogenic fuel and oxidizer) did make it look like the Saturn V had a flat finish.
DeleteHi Naoto,
DeleteI should have clear coated the paper wraps! More in an upcoming post -
Hi Naoto,
ReplyDeleteI'm aware of the cold frost on the paint. On the Mercury Redstone launches, the words "States" wasn't visible because of the frost.
I still paint my models with a gloss finish for handling. If a build was for a competition or display, a semi-gloss finish would be best.