Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 3, Making The Cardstock Rings

Check a few size rotary punches until you get a friction fit on a 1/8" dowel.

To find the center hole position,

Position the tube over the center of the ring and very lightly press.

This will leave a small circle impression in the disk without cutting through.

On the left - The first impression is a little off center.

Try again using the first impression and making small corrections.

Six of the larger disk rings were punched.

Two smaller rings will also be made in the same way.
 

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 2, Making The Cardstock Rings

There are cardstock rings that slide over the 1/8" diameter dowel "gun and radar pod". I don't have a laser cutter, I'll have to cut them out by hand.

The template PDFs from Jim Z's printed up full size when when checked against the printed ruler.

The larger ring was printed onto 115 lb. stock, cut out and traced onto framing mat stock. The center hole wasn't cut out. 

Small thick rings are hard to cut out with a hobby knife. I used some heavy scissors. Just make them as round as you can.

Sand down the high spots using 220 grit on a block.

On the left is a rough cut with scissors.

On the right is after sanding and rounding with the sanding block.
 

Six are needed, I had to throw out one.

They're not kit perfect, but will be fine on the clone build.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 1, Parts

The Strikefighter was introduced and featured on the cover of the 1989 Estes Catalog.

BT-55 based, clear vacu-form canopy.

18" parachute, 14.75" tall.

To see the catalog page: CLICK HERE

To see the instructions: CLICK HERE

Most everything was pulled from spare parts. 

The vacu-form canopy is very close to the Odd'l Rockets Fighter Fleet kit, the part not shown here.

The 3D ramjet style nose cone was printed by Augendoc.

Many of the .050" thick cardstock parts will be cut from mat board scraps picked up cheap at a picture framing store. 

I'll finish up the redraw of the decals soon.

LAUNCH! (Finally) R.O.A.R., Christmas, FL, September 26, 2026

Orlando R.O.C.K. lost it's field months ago.

Christmas Florida R.O.A.R. doesn't do launches in the hot Summer.

Today is the day! I can finally launch the models I've been building lately.

For fun, I started the day with a MicroMaxx, the downscale Estes FAT BOY.

Performance was better than expected, altitude was probably 80 feet.

Streamer recovery, no damage when picked up.

First flight of the downscale BT-55 based Estes OPTIMA. 

A C6-5 got it up to an estimated 650'. 

I'm terrible at adjusting launch rods with any wind. Today I lucked out.

These last two touched down within 25 feet of the launch rack.

Under a 12" chute, no damage at recovery.

My camera was focusing on the distant trees, not on the rockets. Launch pics are few.

Another first flight, the Estes TIME WARP.

I've been saving some Q2G2 igniters for cluster birds like this.

We tested a Q2G2 to make sure the R.O.A.R. controllers wouldn't fire early at continuity. It only burned when the launch button was pressed - We were good to go!

The trio of A10-3t motors were fast - reminding me of a B14. I would guess the altitude to be around 475'. 

The picture shows a drone over the descending rocket.

 

I was concerned the three second delay might be too short, it was fine. A3-4s might be a better fit for this rocket.

The engines were pulled out immediately after the flight. You can see the charring especially at the center.

There was some paint blistering on the BT-5 tube.

Only three flights today. I had my dog Dakota at the launch and she wasn't happy! It was warm and she wasn't taking any water that was offered. So, we went home early. She's a great dog, maybe not too excited about rocket launches.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 31, Masking The Nose Cone Tip

At this point the very tip is covered in black paint.

Another Sharpie marked Scotch tape arc was cut.

This mask is a bit tricky with the recessed lines going around the nose cone. Be sure the tape edge is sealed all the way around.

After masking, the tip was sprayed white to give the bright red a good, light background. 

The red was sprayed after the white had dried for about 10 minutes. Remember - Recoat within an hour or after 48 hours. (Using Ace Premium Enamel)

The paint was pulled and the mask was almost perfect.

A little touchup was done with a fine point Sharpie.
 

This shows why the instructions suggest painting the tube ring off the engine mount. It would be difficult to mask otherwise.

Again, the separately painted intake assembly slid into the taper cut tube. No glue yet, just slid in place as an example.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build , What's up?

Rain and humidity!

Big rockets are difficult to paint, especially a large model with inside areas.

The model got a "final" gloss white coat that blued and ended up with flat finish in many areas. I'll still work on what I can but the final mask, black paint and decals will have to wait a month for lower humidity.

Anybody else have problems getting a good even gloss on your rockets?

In the next few days I'm getting the parts ready for the Estes Strikefighter clone.

I'm going to a launch tomorrow! Looking forward to flying the three engine cluster Estes Timewarp. I haven't done a cluster launch in a few years.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 30, Masking The Nose Cone Tip

Here's the nose cone tip paint suggestion - 

Black with a red tip.

I'll paint the black all the way forward, then come back and paint the red.

I have a clear plexiglass cutting board to cut the Scotch tape.

That texture underneath is my new countertop.

It took five tries to get the right arc. I kept going smaller with each try. Wipe a paper towel over the ink to pick up the excess.  

A smooth arc is cut through the middle of the thick pen line.

The tape arc is wrapped around the tip. The tricky part is masking around the recess line.

Masking tape goes over the low end.

Paper is wrapped around the base of the nose cone.

Black is sprayed. 

The tape is pulled.

I got a decent mask but there was two small dots of lifted paint.

I'll show the fix in an upcoming post.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 29, I Gotta' Paint!

I'm tired of rain! I went outside to spray about 1:30 p.m. Humidity was probably a little high, there was some bluing of the glossy paint. I'll probably polish out any dull areas. 

Not the perfect scenario, but I've got to get moving on this one!

   

The side "shield" fins were painted off the model.

This is a big rocket with lots of inside areas. I felt it would be easier to mask these shields and the wings separately. 

They'll be glued on after the masks are complete.

With the nose cone in place, the model is longer than I can comfortably spray in a long, one arm sweep.

A cardstock "handle" was rolled and taped to the nose cone shoulder.

The engine mount ring got the final gloss black spray.

On the left is the first coat sanded with 400 grit.

The light sanding paid off, you can see the gloss in the right side picture.

Once in a while I run into balsa that shows grain even after filling.

The sanded paint helps fill them a bit, but this wood required more CWF. 

The final black will cover the bit of sanded beige filler. 
 

Adding A Pilot to the Odd'l Rockets F-18 Hornet kit

Frank D. added to his Odd'l Rocket F-18 build!

Inside the cockpit - 

You can see the pilot!

"A wooden bead painted yellow with a black visor."

A great addition - 

 

The full view of Franks F-18 painted Blue Angels style.

It's a tricky mask and looks great!

Waiting For Better Painting Weather -

Rain and humidity = 

No Cosmic Interceptor painting!

The Cosmic Interceptor is a big model, painting conditions have to be just right for good coverage.

Here's a look into what's coming up on the blog - 

Augendoc is 3D printing the ramjet nose cones for me.

I have vacu-form cockpits from the Odd'l jet kits.

I've already drawn up the decals.

The rest will be selected from too many accumulated spare parts.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 28, Small Things

The engine mount ring and intake vanes are painted black. It's easier to pre-paint then glue them in place. It would be nearly impossible to mask the intake vanes if they were glued into the tapered body tube.

The engine ring was taped to a painting wand (dowel) and sprayed gloss black. The paint will require light sanding and another coat.

Only the exposed front of the vanes need paint.

These also will require some sanding and another coat of paint.

The tri-fold mount was glued up and formed into a curve while the glue was still wet. I pre-form the mount so I can glue it in the tube later.

Here the mount is pressed into some of the leftover intake tubing.

It's been a frustrating weather week. I usually spray at about 2:30 p.m. when the humidity is low. Most all afternoons have been raining!

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 27, Launch Lugs

I know - I'm pre-painting almost everything. On this complicated a build, you'll have trouble getting spray paint into all the inside and covered areas. When you paint over a glue area, the surface has to be carefully scraped or sanded so the glue can soak in and adhere the parts.

 

The lugs were pre-painted white.

The bottoms are areas of the lugs are touching the cardboard and won't get any paint.

The lug gluing areas on the model are sanded using 400 grit wrapped around a Q-tip. Sand an area a little shorter than the length of the lugs.

It helps to use a log tweezer to set the lug under the T piece.

Note the two glue lines.

One line contacts the body tube, the other touches the wing near the root edge.

.

Here's the lugs in line.

I won't be applying glue fillets, there would be bubbles when the glue dries.

Because the glued areas had the surface roughened and paint removed, the bond is plenty strong.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 26, Fitting The Vanes

Don't glue the vane assembly in place. The body of the rocket is mostly white, the vane assembly is black. 

Paint the vanes and body separately, then glue the vanes under the tube intake.

Notice the high (middle) vane is touching the intake body tube while the smaller vanes have a gap.

The largest center vane was trimmed with a new razor blade.

Cutting into the corner, 

Shave a little and check the fit.

Here the fit is much better, all the vane forward edges are contacting the intake tube.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 25, Gluing The T & V Pieces

The instructions have you glue the vertical V piece (rudder) before gluing on the horizontal T pieces. Wait to glue the V piece. Even though the paper marking guide fit well, the V rudder piece ended up a little off the pencil line. I ended up visually centering the V piece between the glued in T pieces.

   

No glue yet - 

Set the T piece in it's slot, resting the tapered side on the body tube.

Trace around the tapered end outlining in pencil on the body tube.

Scrap away any paint until you can see the bare body tube. 

Scrape inside the pencil lines.

Then glue on the V rudder piece even with the tube end. 

Note the taper. You might be tempted to glued it flipped the other way.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 24, Fitting The "T" Brace

The T pieces fit into a notch in the vertical S pieces. They sit high on the body tube and have to be sanded to fit. The T pieces should end up flat, parallel to the face of the large wing. 

The upper picture shows the start of the sand, a small bit has been sanded away. 

The bottom picture shows the angle sanded down so the T piece sits flat.

You can get a better fit against the body tube.

I wrapped some 220 grit around a dowel to make the flat root edge curved.

On the left, the curve has been sanded.

The right side picture shows the new root edge fit against the body tube.

You might have noticed the pre-painting of the areas inside and under and T pieces. If glued together it would be hard to get white paint to cover the hidden surfaces.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 23, Wing Gluing

These large wing fins were difficult to glue on!

They remind me of the large Orbital Transport or even the Gyroc fins. You think they are tacked on then the weight of the fin pulls it off the body tube.

Looking from the rear - 

Make sure the fins are perpendicular before the glue sets up.

This fin required some tweaking.

On the left is an example of wood glue placed down the root edge.

TIP: Even out the glue line before placing on the body tube.

In the left side picture, notice the "V" formed by the thumb and index finger. Hold the V and run your fingers down the glue.

You should end up with an even glue line as shown on the right side. When pressed on the body tube fin line, there will be a cleaner joint with less glue squeezed out. 
 

New Odd'l Rocket?

Which head (nose cone) do you prefer? Please comment below.

The newer head (on the left) is a bit like the Lost In Space robot, clear with details inside. 

The original design resembles a robot toy from early sci-fi.

They are different! If I can get prototypes built, then comes flight testing.

If a kit is produced, they will be more colorful.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 22, Root Edge Fit

The supplied fin marking guide fit!

The root edge contact positions (two on each of the main wing fins) had the filler/primer scraped off for better adhesion. 

A dry fit of the wings showed the lower root edge not making complete contact. The upper root edge was good.

The root edge was sanded with 320 grit on a block until the fin made full contact down the fin / body tube joint.