Estes Hi-Flier XL, #3226 Build, Part 19, Decals Part A - TIPS

I read forum posts about problems applying water-slide decals. Vendors use different suppliers for their decal printing. Some can be hard to transfer.
I've been using water slides since I was 6 years old, putting together my first plastic model. Experience does help - I'll try to offer a few tips.


The shape of these decals are a little misleading. The white area is hard to see against the white backing paper. Cut them close to the edge, be careful not to cut into the white areas.

Before soaking, set the decal on the fin to get an idea of the centering and spacing from the trailing edge.
My decal bottom was a little wider than the angle cut of the trailing edge.

Don't be impatient! Allow enough time for a decal to soak and release from the back paper.
I first soak the decal in water for about 30 seconds. Remember, every decal soak time can be different. a 30 second soak is a good starting point.
The picture shows the decal sitting on a paper towel. Letting the decal sit for a minute allows it to further relax and release from the backing paper.

Try to "rub" the decal and see if it slides from the backing paper. If it doesn't move, soak for another 15 seconds and let it sit on the paper towel again.
Test to see if the decal slides. If so, you are good to transfer onto the model. Don't remove it from the backing paper yet.

Rub some water on the surface. The water will be a surface lube allowing you to easily slide the decal to it's final position.
Set a decal on a dry surface and it might stick in the wrong position.

Continued next post . .