Tuesday, October 10, 2017
Estes Curvilinear #3231, Build, Parts 3, Fixing a Body Tube Crimp
Here's the only picture I could find of the finished 18mm engine mount.
I was curious to see if the difference in weights would be close to the clay nose weight needed later on. It wasn't!
The 18mm mount weighed .85 oz. with a B6-4 engine installed.
The 13mm mount weighed .42 oz with the A10-3t engine.
I'm building two kits.
One of the body tube ends had a small crimp. It shouldn't hurt the strength of the model especially if I put it on the bottom, hidden by the tail ring.
The nose cone was slid into the crimped end for strength in the next step.
A small pool of medium CA glue was set onto some scrap cardboard. A Q-tip was dipped in the CA and rubbed on the crimped area but clear of the nose cone shoulder joint. (I didn't want to glue the nose cone in.)
Before the glue sets, quickly rube over the glued, crimped area with a hard, smooth burnisher. You should be able to smooth out a slight crimp by molding the wet tube. The nose cone shoulder underneath lets you press fairly hard with the burnisher.
Remove the nose cone so it doesn't get glued in the tube.
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So the idea is to add clay to the nose equal to the weight added to the tail?
ReplyDeleteHi Tenspeed,
DeleteNot always!
I was more curious about the difference in the two engine mount weights to see if it was the same as re-balancing the model to the C/G with the 13mm mount. It wasn't the same and the required weight was less than the weight difference of the engine mounts. More on this later -
It is probably helpful to look at it in terms of moment arm (i.e. leverage).
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