Finally, a kit tube marking guide that matched up when rolled around the tube!
This is the back end with the crimp. It'll never be seen under the tail ring. The back end of the inside got a wipe of medium CA.
The launch lug is glued in place directly in line with the engine hook.
Filling the tail ring inside seam? I did because I didn't know how much would be visible when it is glued in place.
(So you know, you really couldn't see the inside seam on the finished model.)
The engine mount was slipped on a finishing dowel wand for a coat of primer/filler.
Don't glue the engine mount in so you can compare engine mounts and the different C/G later on.
As for filling the ring seam... In some cases a builder may feel the need to fill it in (despite knowing that it couldn't be seen), simply because the builder knows it's there. It's similar to going through the trouble of adding detail to a cockpit even if you couldn't see any of it through the canopy. An example would be Revell 1:96 scale Apollo capsule model -- I painted the cockpit interior and astronaut figure -- despite knowing that the interior couldn't really be seen through the tiny windows.
ReplyDeleteHi Naoto,
DeleteNo real reason to do the the extra - but I know it's there!
I have seen you coat the inside of the body tube with CA at the nose cone end to strengthen it. Have you ever done the same to the engine tube where you insert engines for the same reason?
ReplyDeleteHi Bill,
DeleteI also coat the inside edge of the engine mount tube, but only about 3/8" in. Do the CA coat and sand lightly with 400 grit.
I use CA on the aft end of motor tubes - does take a little sanding so the the motor casing slides in easy so you don't want a thick layer of CA. Seems to help strengthen the edge, at least for me .
ReplyDeleteHi Openroad,
DeleteAfter coating the inside of the motor mount tube you should sand it a little or the engine fit could be tight. The CA does strengthen the open ends of tubing.