On TRF, JQAvins wrote:
The little Estes squares seem to be almost the same as Plasticine modeling clay, but it's a little crumbly when cold (room temperature). It becomes pliable when warmed by working in one's hand. It softens and even flows if heated more.
TIP: Once I put a bunch into a hollow plastic nose cone by feeding little worms in through the little hole. Then I took a tall narrow glass, filled it with really hot water, and put the cone into it tip down. The clay got hot and flowed into the tip and left a really nice smooth surface.
Neil W added:
That's a great idea, didn't know you could do that. I usually spend a long time with the dowel making sure it's really tamped down good in there, never thought of warming it up.I had tried with a dowel - a small one to fit through the small hole - and the clay kept cracking around it. Necessity proved, once again, the mother of invention.
My take:
I also take some extra time trying to evenly tamp down the clay in the tip of the nose cone. I'll have to try the "hot water" method.
One thing I do -
Instead of molding "worms" out of the clay, it's easier to make small balls out of the clay and drop those into the nose cone shoulder hole. The little balls of clay will settle in the nose cone tip more evenly, like ice in a water glass. You won't have to chase around the long clay snakes with the end of a dowel - just tamp them into place.
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