The original Point kit had a short shoulder on the nose cone. This allowed full clearance at the top of the punched holes in the body tube.
In the right side picture -
I sanded down (well, up) the shoulder so the holes were fully clear.
The seams were filled with CWF.
Primer /Filler followed with sanding to surface.
Thin strips of masking tape was set down the root edge lines for gluing on the fins later.
There are six fins and they are close together. Masking would be difficult.
With the root edges clean, I can paint the fins black off the body, then glue them onto the white body tube.
TIP: Here's a good example why you need a white undercoat before color coats go on.
On the left is a filled, primed nose cone. Red was shot directly over the filler and primer.
On the right I used a white undercoat before the red was sprayed.
Colors like yellow, orange and red are somewhat transparent. A white undercoat makes the color coats brighter and less "splotchy".
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