Estes Starship Nova #1371 Build, Part 24, Decals

The rear windows on the nose cone didn't fit into the molded borders.




I had to cut them apart and position them closer together.

The cockpit window decals were a little too wide to fit into the molded lines. I place it as well as I could, there was some overhang.



After the decals dried I was able to trim up the overhang.
There was a overhang tick where the corners of the orange decals met up. Look to the middle left of the orange band.


Here's the decals after trimming.

The front engine pod decal went beyond the root edge and onto the wing.


A very light cut was made with a new razor blade just cutting through the decal, not into the paint.

Estes Starship Nova #1371 Build, Part 23, Decals

I could finally pull the tape covering the engine pods.
The extra work was worth it, the fluorescent orange showed up well inside the engine.









I wish Estes could print decals on the light blue backed paper so you could see the white pieces easier. The dashed lines were very close to the hard to see white ink.



You'll have to cut many of the decals close to the edge.
The face card art shows the engine pod decal right on the edge of the lip. I ended up setting this decal a hair back from the front edge.


The decal clear coat is thin.
TIP: Round off any inside corner cuts to reduce the chance of tearing.

I ended up setting the engine pod decal slightly back from the edge.
The decal was a bit too long at the bottom.





TIP: On the wing decal, slide the backing off so just the inside edge is off by about 3/16". You'll need the support of the backing paper to position it far enough into the root edge.

Intake Cones Part 2, TIP

All the scoring before the actual split gives you two clean halves.

The split flat side is cleaned up a bit using a sanding block.






The cones have to fit the contour of the body tube.
I wrapped some 220 around the tube and sand back and forth in a straight line.

Here's a good fit against the main air frame tube.





How it ends up - the nose cone shoulder isn't seen inside the intake.

The intake nose cones will end up being custom made by BMS. There aren't any available nose cones in the length and shape needed for this kit application.

Intake Cones Part 1, TIP

While the paint dries on the Starship Nova, here's a little background construction on the upcoming F-104 Starfighter kit intake.

Years back I bought and assembled the Estes Astron Streak. It was an early BT-20 Mosquito. With a C6-7 you could reach altitudes of 2,0000 feet! Or so they claimed. Who knows, you'd never see it again anyway.

The Streak instructions said you could hollow out the nose cone and get an extra 20 feet altitude!
Split the nose cone and hollow it out. My nose cone split didn't end up down the middle!
On the upcoming Odd'l Rockets F-104 Starfighter kit I'll supply nose cone halves that glue inside the front of the intakes. Here's how I'll prep them for the kit.



I scored the outside of the nose cone to get a clean split, right down the middle.
The base is scored first, maybe 1/8" in.



The shoulder is next.

With my knife blade extended I continue up the side, aiming towards the center tip.



The nose cone is turned over and the 1/8" scoring ends through the tip.

John Boren Build Prep Article in the Apogee P.O.F.

In the latest issue of the Apogee Peak Of Flight Newsletter, John Boren of Estes explains how he preps rockets before spraying color coats.
To read the article, CLICK HERE

John Boren is a great designer, the models he has produced for Estes are outstanding.
I’m always curious how others prep and finish their models. Everybody has a method that works well for them.

Here’s a breakdown of the steps from the article -
1. With the balsa still on the sheet, spray two heavy coats of primer and sanding.
2. Bondo Spot Putty and sanding.
3. (Optional - If needed, repeat primer and sanding then Bondo and sanding.)
4. Glue together the model.
5. Spray with primer then apply Bondo where needed again.
6. Sand smooth.
7. Apply one more coat of primer and smooth with a light sanding sponge.
White undercoats follow.

In this method I counted six primer and Bondo treatments and sanding between coats -
before the first white undercoat! (The six coats and sanding are not including the optional third step shown in parenthesis.)

When I started in 1969, Estes recommended 4 coats of sanding sealer, sanding between coats. Centuri recommended using balsa fillercoat.
I always hated balsa filling. Four brushed coats of sealer and sanding and took a lot of time. Once I figured out how to do it correctly it did work well.

I am not knocking Mr. Boren’s methods. His posted builds show beautiful work.
Mr. Boren fills the balsa while it is still on the sheet. You'd still have to fill the edges later after the pieces are removed and the laser burnt edges cleaned up.

By comparison my prep schedule is pretty simple.
1. Remove the balsa from the sheet and sand off the burnt laser cut edges.
2. One application of thinned Carpenter’s Wood Filler and sanding.
3. One fairly heavy coat of Duplicolor Primer / Filler and sand - DONE!
Assemble the model and follow with white undercoats.

My filling method is not the only way to get it done. 
Do what works for you, I simply prefer something that takes less time.

Estes Starship Nova #1371 Build, Part 22, Watching Paint Dry

I've mentioned it too many times before - The Summer humidity is really slowing up the drying time.
I thought I was ready for the final "wet" coat of black but I went light. Probably a good thing, there is still some rough spots that will require light sanding.

On the good side, the lower intake and engine pods came out very well. The fillets and joints are smooth.

More light sanding with 400 grit then the final wet coat of black.

My Lap Desk

I just bought a new Lap Desk.
I found my first Lap Desk on sale at an office supply store. After spilling some liquid plastic cement all over it I ordered a new one.

I live alone, rockets and supplies are all over! I build rockets at the kitchen table and on my sofa while watching TV. When I'm on the sofa the Lap Desk is my work surface.  To see one vendor - CLICK HERE 

The corrugated cardboard cutting surface is clipped to the paper holder on the left side.

Underneath are two long beanbag pillows to steady the desk wile you work.

It's a handy mobile work space when you are away from the "bench".