Estes Star Speeder #1366 Build, Part 7, Engine Block Placement

Mentioned earlier, the kit doesn't include an engine block ring. Without it, the engine hook can move during boost and ejection. The upper bend of the hook can enlarge the cut slit allowing the hook to move and slide up and back. Adding an engine block will strengthen the mount and prevent problems down the road.

The problem is, how do you get the engine hook in the long BT-20 tube, resting against the top bend of the engine hook?

I'll have to slide an engine block down from the top - dry, no glue, until it stops at the top bend of the engine hook.

A Kevlar line was already tied around the engine block. The line was put into the top of the BT-20 and allowed to fall out the rear end.

I used a painting wand (an engine casing glued over the end of a 1/2" diameter dowel) to push the block down from the top. Keep pushing the block in until it stops on the top bend of the engine hook.

To apply some glue, a Q-tip was taped to the end of a pencil.
Glue was applied to the Q-tip and a interior fillet applied under the engine block from the bottom.
An engine casing was set in place and quickly turned to pick up any excess glue. Remove the casing immediately, don't glue the casing in the mount. Use it just to get rid off the excess, wet glue.