Same goes for the outside edges. Run a fingertip over the edges and you will feel the tic bumps that should be sanded off.
I didn't want to use white or wood glue to adhere the skins. I was concerned about excess dried glue showing up on the finished model.
I tried an experiment using a glue stick on some scrap skin cardstock. The glue stick was rubbed on the back of the skin trying to get an even coat.
This was pressed onto some scrap balsa and let dry.
The skins held on very strong, even when I tried to lift them with a knife blade.
That was good enough for me!
That was good enough for me!
Here's a cleaned up skin, glued and centered on a fin.
TIP: Using a glue stick allows an even thin coat that won't squeeze out when the skin is burnished down. If any glue shows along the edges, pick it up with a Q-tip it before it dries.
Hey Chris - I just started on this kit. On the first steps for the fins with the cardstock overlays, it states that "The balsa fins need to be sealed with primer, dry and lightly sanded before gluing to index stock." Do you know why they want you to primer and sand those fins first? Is it just because of the lack of space there and trying to get as best of a finish in the end? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteHi Richard,
DeleteThey recommend filling and sealing the balsa grain before the overlays are glued on. There would be no way to fill the wood grain after the cardstock is place. In the last picture you can see the sanded gray primer inside the cutout areas.
I can't speak for Estes, but I assume they recommend filling before gluing the cardstock for a smoother look on the finished model.