Here's how the sides match up, the double layer D parts are positioned on the outside single layer E piece. Another E piece will glue on the top of this.
Use the dowel again to help line up the E pieces and the holes.
Three clothespin clamps were used on each hinge assembly.
Once it's glued up, the hinge assembly is thick! You could just glue it to the body tube but the side edges would be raised.
Some 220 grit was wrapped around a 1/2" dowel and the root edge of the hinge assembly sanded to a inside curve. I didn't sand too much, I didn't want to lower the blades close to the body.
The kit includes a hinge alignment tool.
GOTCHA: It couldn't be used as directed, the hinge assembly thickness was wider than the slots in the alignment tool!
I still used it to visually set them around the tube with equal spacing.
Hey Chris - enjoying the build.
ReplyDeleteThose built up hinges are very intriguing. Wonder how well they'll hold up and if they offer a competitive edge over the model airplane hinges I've used in the past.
I'm also wondering why the tubing is cut and then glued together with a coupler again. Does the coupler add strength to the hinge area?
Hi Tim,
DeleteThe hinges seem strong and much easier than the typical helicopter wire bending and thread wraps. One of the advantages of laser cutting, I guess. I've read where most problems in helicopter competitions are deployment, especially with interior blade models. Who knows if this would give any advantage in competition or not. I'm not active in NAR competitions.
I thought the same thing - why cut the tubes just to glue them back together again. The hinge housings are glued on even with the bottom of the upper tube. If I get to NARAM I'll ask John Boren.
Laser-cutting has certainly made a lot of things easier; remember die-crunched parts? Maybe Estes will consider making the hinges available separately.
DeleteLooking forward to meeting you at NARAM! I have not been an active competitor for a while so just sport flying.