While doing some test fitting, the short area next to the fin tab flexed and showed a wrinkle. I thought this small area could be a problem and was careful. I still found a crease when test fitting.
Masking tape pieces were set in the inside edges of the body tubes so no paint could get inside.
A small bit of white glue was rubbed into both sides of the wrinkled area. Flat face tweezers compressed and molded the wrinkle flat.
Here's the same area after the crease was shaped and pressed flat. The wet glue allows you to reform it a bit.
Not perfect, but better and maybe a little stronger.
The saucer rings and nose cone are painted yellow, the fins and body are black. I couldn't see any easy way to mask if the model was glued together.
I had to do some thin strip masks on the glue line areas.
Masking tape was cut into very thin strips and placed on the outside edges of the fins.
More strips were place around the inside edges of the saucers.
A dowel was friction fit into the bottom of each stage. Shots of gloss black paint followed.
TIP: You don't usually need white undercoats when your final color coat is black.
The saucers were held down to a piece of cardboard for spray painting. These light color saucers will get a white undercoat before the yellow.
Spray one side, flip over and tape down again to spray the other side.
That’s similar to what I did except I pressed the fin overnight like I do when I paper balsa fins - between nonstick plastic under a bunch of old books. I’ve flown my Twin Factor - it does work very well - but I haven’t painted it.
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